Man..360's are awesome. You can do so much with them..People are under the impression that if it's not a 340 that it wont run. Pure bull....

I been told to use a 440 in my '70 Charger, but I always run into small block parts; so that's what I end up doing. I may go with the 408 combo however that way I can tell them it's just a 318. Yes, with a small block you have that sleeper factor.

My '74 roadrunner is aiming to get a mild 360 on the squeeze

A small block built with the right pieces will destroy a big block IF you know what you are doing

Next time you put the engine/transmission combo in, jack the real off the car as high as your jack takes it.
It will make it a much easier install.

well its at the mark its always been at? wasnt it set there at the running point?

Because I needed to get my car running before you sent me your dizzy to recurve, I marked it, pulled the distributor out, put a spare lean burn one in to keep stuff from falling in, and then put it back when I did the recurve of yours. I thought I kept the rotor orientation the same for the 2 R&R's, but I could have put it in 180 out.

and check the basics, make sure you're getting spark/fuel.

Nice job just remember if that 360 is low comp like a Ex lean burn give it all the timing it will take,up to about 45-46 degree's with no vac. Hopefully you wired it right, by the way if the car has Chrysler elec ignition make sure the engine is grounded.

ok i tried starting it. getting gass and all but still no spark? give me all the things that give it spark so i can make a checklist to check all the places i could be making my not getting spark.

Well make sure you got power to the hot side of the coil. If you have points then make sure that they're gapped correctly and hooked up right with the condensor, and hooked to the correct side of the coil (negative). If you're running a Chrysler electronic setup MAKE SURE the box is grounded to something wherever you mounted it.

coil, ballast resistor, ECU, ground for the ballast and ground for the ECU. wiring between the components, there's the odd chance the pickup in the distributor went bad, but I doubt it, since I was running that distributor until I got the other recurved....

I know I'm a little late to the party, but my Daily Drivable 360 is as follows:

Wiseco Pro-Tru forged pistons, Plasma-Moly Rings
Stock rods, polished beams, ARP Pro-Wavelock Rod Bolts, Clevite 77 Bearings
Stock crank, balanced full rotating assembly, ARP Main Studs, Clevite Bearings
Windage Tray
Bored '73 360 block .030 over (early casting based on 340 core)
9.5995 deck height after machining
Cometic MLS Head gaskets (.027 thick)
SP HV Oil pump (has melling p/n tag on it out of sealed power box)
Crane Retrofit Roller cam - 112 c-line, 107 intake inst., 230/238 @ .050, 0.528/0.548 lift
MSD Ignition, Distributor, Coil, Wires
Edelbrock heads (box stock except machined corners of port opennings smoothed out)
10.2:1 compression calculated
Edelbrock RPM Intake, Tru-Roller timing chain
Milodon Aluminum Water Pump
Hooker Super Comp headers, dual 2.5" exhaust w/ Magnaflow mufflers and H-pipe
Holley 750 VS carb on Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake, w 1" phenolic spacer, and 1/2" NOS Super Powershot Nitrous plate (jetted for 175 hp shot)
K&N 14 x 3" open element air filter
Hughes 3000 stall converter (only stalling 2600 tho...) w/anti-ballooning plates, neutral balance, had engine balanced with B&M 360 ext. balance flex plate
727 trans with red clutches, koleen steels, kevlar bands, Transgo TF2 shift improver kit
Spicer U-Joints
custom ford 9" rear with 3.70:1 rear gears, Detroit Locker, 31 spline Dutchman Motorsport Axles

All of this gives me 340 whp on a DynoJet 248x chassis dyno without nitrous, and 438 whp with nitrous. She's run 13.70 @ 99.8 mph N/A, and 12.249 @ 110 on the squeeze with a "standard" pressure nitrous bottle (12.13 with a 1200 psi bottle). Runs pump gas always with or without nitrous, 92 octane locally. Vehicle weighs 4450 lbs with driver. Who says 360's are slow?