I have toyed off and on with the idea of doing some low budget bracket racing, maybe I'm wasting y'alls time with this question but if I'm going to research the subject, what better place to start than right here?

So I had this 81 Dodge Mirada drop into my yard cheap, and I'm looking at the foam bumpers and all and I figure that with the interior and all other non-essentials stripped out this would be a pretty light car. A quick internet search puts the published curb weight at around 3300 lb so sans carpet, heater box, seats, panels, dash, etc. it should be around 3000 lb maybe? ... it wouldn't take an awful lot of engine to get a car of this weight into the bottom of a beginner's bracket at the local track. This is my thought process, anyhow.

So.... I have only superficial knowledge about going fast at the strip, I do not have the wisdom or experience about the details of setting up a race car to know if this is a workable platform. The initial attempt would be pretty slow by race car standards, but perhaps I would look to get faster with it as time progresses. I know the J body has the transverse torsion bar design, don't know if this is a good or bad thing for handling. Don't know if there are other major flaws to this chassis design that have to be accounted for. Just wondering if the good folks in the Mopar race car forum may have some experience or knowledge to drop on me

I don't have a whole lot of experience with a J body, but for a bracket racer? Sure...Why not? It need not be light to win, only consistant. The 8-1/4 should work behind a mild small block. Plenty-o-room for a big block.

scatpacktom...Where you at?

A Mirada is basically like a Aspen/Volare, but with about a 4" longer wheelbase. (Still shorter than a B-body) There is a NHRA/IHRA Stock Mirada in NC that runs mid-high 11's with a 360 and it still had the 8 1/4" rear! I saw it myself. But I'd still suggest an 8 3/4" for longevity and gear selection. There are at least 2 fast Stock Volares in NC also.

It can take some extra work to get it fixed up because the usual stuff just doesn't "bolt-in". I don't believe anyone makes a drag-specific front shock for them and I'm not sure how much work it takes to get SS springs in because the have a little different mounting arrangement. I would imagine that using the "bent" torsion bars from a 6 cyl. car would work like swapping the conventional versions, if needed. But I think it's a decent looking and capable car to race with.

You need to talk to Mr. J Body himself!!

Diego

Oh No,Tommy D, I'm not the "go to" Mirada guy now

I have been working on a Mirada Stocker. It is a 360 with a 904.It weighs about 3450 with a driver.It has a 8 3/4 out of a 67 B body in it, seems to fit ok.This past weekend it went 11.86 at 111.96. Not too bad for the cars 6th pass down the 1320 with the new motor.

I will say the car is very user friendly with a small block. I'd say go for it,but don't tell anybody I told you to

My J body was 3350 lbs with a 360/999/8 3/4 and 3550 lbs with a 440/727/8 3/4.

A 1966-1967 B body 8 3/4 goes in with just the locating holes opened up for the J body.

The gas tank straps can be loosened off and the tank moved over towards the passenger side one indent to make room for better dual exhaust clearance.

The rear half of a two piece driveshaft from a 1973 and newer Dodge ClubCab longbox will bolt in if you have a 727 and an 8 3/4 rear.

To clear a 440 with PB I used a K car brake booster, bolted right in and worked well.

Aside from the driver's side header a 440 is basically a bolt in swap.

Mine weighs 3180 with me in it. Still has the stock dash and power windows. While I've never scaled the car, I have the feeling that it is incredibly forward biased. I ran a few combos of small blocks before switching to RB power in the early 90's. B body housings fit nicely, but I actually used an E body housing and was still able to run a 29.5X10.5 slick in the wells with the SS springs. If you trim the inner fender well even with the frame you can use an A body housing and get even more tire under it with a leaf spring car. I switched mine over to ladder bar and lowered the car nicely, but also found that I lost tire room as the wheel wells taper at the top and things are pretty tight now with my 10.5 tires. Best I've gone is 10.04 and it usually 60's in the 1.37-1.39 range if I remember correctly (haven't run the car in a long time). Car was pretty consistant until we started making enough power to run mid/low 10's. Now it's pretty "picky" about track conditions and can blow the tires usually when you really need it to hook. I'd love to ditch the X torsion bars and put something in that would move the weight back some. Maybe someday....

Here's a Mirada that has been on RJ. Resale might be tough since it not one of the more common platforms... this one is hard core for $9k.

Dan its easy and fun to get started with a mild 318 car. My car is a very mild 318 car. Less than $1200.00 in the engine carb to pan. Runs 8.90 to 9.05 (1/8)turning it well under 5 grand. Could easily get more from it. I'm looking at consistancy & winning rounds. There is a Mirida that runs in Super Stock/Stock class at Roxboro Dragway just north or Raleigh. I have only seen it a few times, but seems to run very well. Painted like the old Paul Rossi car. Heck it may even be that car. Where in Youngsville do you live. Thought I was the only Mopar guy in that town???

Hey Jbody, I like the dual snorkle scoop!

thanks for the replies guys, you've answered my question very well. Basically that is confirmation that if I chose to improve the car beyond the low budget entry level, it has potential to do so.