68 roadrunner with standard dash..

My fuel gauge does not work. I have a new tank and sending unit. I would ground the sender wire and the gauge still does not work. I tried 3 different voltage regulators,in the center spade position on the backside of the dash.

I hooked up an autometer fuel gauge and that works great (used the factory sender wire) .

Want to get my stock dash working, so i bought another complete cluster which the seller said has working gauges. I still cannot get the gauge to work on even the new dash.

Obviously my sender wire is working becuase it feeds my autometer gauge. I tried adding another ground off the cluster and still no good.

Whats the chance of having another bad fuel gauge? Is there a way to bench test a fuel gauge.
Im running out of ideas and the dash is a pain to take apart...

They never worked. Not good anyway if you had one that did.

LOL OK... Would still want to see that damn needle move though... I got a lot of time in money trying to see that needle move LOL

wire 2 AA batteries in series. So they equal 3 volts
put a wire from each side of the batteries to each terminal on the gauge.
It should move to half.

so would i put both AA' batterys next to each other and then one wire from the + sides and another wire from the negative sides?

Ok i just did it on my old dash, and the gauge went to 3/4 . What would make the gauge not work in the car if my sender wire is good all the way to the plug? I do not have my AMP gauge hooked up if that matters at all

with a tough one like this you might simplify it & take off the voltage limiter & with some jumpers run 12V to the limiter then from there to the input side of the gas gauge terminal in the pic (pull the round electrical connector off of the back of the printed circuit to isolate it) then from the other gas gauge terminal all the way back to the tank & see what you get.(ground the VL case too)

even if the wire is good from the sending unit, it could be either the circuit board, or the plug to the board.
ground to the dash.

I just took a test light and there is power on 2 of the spade connectors that the voltage reg plugs into. The plug has a good connection as i got a visual on it.

I do still have the autometer fuel gauge hooked up in line as well,not sure if that would affect it. I went to the sender and grounded the sender wire out from the rear of the car and the autometer gauge went full,but the dash gauge did not move.

If the cluster wasnt grounded good enough(which i doubt) where would you reccomend running an additional ground strap from? Do i put it on one of the studs from the back of the gauge?

see if you get power to the gauge.
Just incase it is the board.

Then trace down where it is grounded. The screws make contact. And ground it there.

sorry, im not great with electrical.
how would i see if the gauge is getting power?

my dash lights work.... so i think my cluster is grounded but i will add an additional.

The plus side you attached the battery to, put the test light there and see if it lights up.
You may just not be getting the feed to the gauge.

ok i have flashing power on the stud closest to the amp gauge.

The gas gauge itself is good. Grounding the lead at the gas tank sending unit makes the autometer gas gauge swing over to full, correct? You might jump directly from the tank sending unitforward to the gas gauge downstream terminal (one of the 2 on the pic) & w key on see what you get.

i'm no electrical guru but i think you should disconnect the autometer gauge for your testing. my gas gauge doesn't work either so i run an autometer, and while i was playing around trying to get the factory gauge to work, if i remember correct having both gauges hooked up caused problems. again, just a thought, i could be wrong. good luck

I may be mistaken but you said the amp gauge is not hooked up(they usually burn up, been there done that). I'm pretty sure the power through the amp gauge feeds power to the whole cluster. Somebody else might need to chime in but I think this is the case. Hope I helped.