Hello,

This is just a general couple of questions I guess. How many of you are running a 500 inch 400 based stroker on the street? The piston for this combination seems really short. Will it rock in the bore too much and wear out if it were driven on the street lets say three times a week and drag raced once a month? Can this combo be street driven a couple times a week and survive for five years without a rebuild? I picked five years as a number. It could be 2,3,4,5,6 years. I was thinking of a 500/400 based combo with a .575-.600 mechanical lift cam, aluminum headed engine. How long would a 500 inch stoked 400 in a 3900 pound B-body last? Given a 6000 RPM shift point. I'm sure there is more I left out. I got a hold of the new MOPAR BIG BLOCK book.

A couple of friends that bracket race 440 combos with stock eddy heads with a 440 shortblock and 590 cam average 600 runs, then head work. Shortblock, the stock cranks they run last maybe 1000 runs and crack. If you have a new forged crank, run an aircleaner, and take good care of it, I don't think you would need more than a top end freshen for at least five years, at say 120 runs a year. Even though the stroke is longer, I would bet it will hold up well.

A 400 block is taller than a BB Chevy block so there is more room in a Mopar for a longer rod and a taller piston.

A 454 Chevy or even a 502 BB Chevy can easily handle any durability test that the OEM's use so there isn't any reason that a 500 inch low deck Mopar can't also. You just need to build it correctly.

I'll let you know in a few years

I had the same thoughts about the pistons, but they seem fine, only time will tell. With my combination, I am more concerned with the valve train and valve spring life running a 0.715" lift cam.

Anyhow, years ago (about 15 years ago) I got alot of grief for running stock rods in my 451 stroker. My response was "if it breaks, I'll build a bigger one"

When it did break a few years ago, it was a broken intake valve that caused the damge, the short block still looked good except the hole in the top of the piston when the valve head broke off.

I built my 512 pump gas 400 stroker (then) for pump gas racing on the streets of Los Angels with no power adders. I have upgraded parts on it since then, CNC ported Eddy RPM heads the second year because I could afford it and later change the crankshaft from 4.25 stroke to 4.300 stroke to increase the compression from 9.25 to 1 to 10.29 to 1 The pistons, rods, rings and bearings are the same ones in the motor now as was in it in 2003 when I built it. it has around 400 runs on it and probally between 1500 and 2000 street miles so far. That combination runs fine, I shift it at or above 7000 RPMs becuase the motor likes it and runs the fastest shifting it there. The car is 3400+ lbs with me in it, 1971 Duster full three inch exhaust and Hooker fenderwell headers on M/T ET Street bias and radails tires, 10:34 ET at 128.6 MPH best running out of fuel It will run faster this year now that I have replaced the fuel pump with a bigger one I run a 7.800 long H beam rod and the piston is really short

Although the 4.15" stroke with 6.76" rods has been used with a 1.12" compression height piston. I like the 4.250" stroke with 6.535" "chevy +.400" rods with a 1.30-1.32" piston, depending on block deck height. The 2.200" rod journal makes the rods fit better in the block compared to the Mopar 2.375" rod journals and larger rods.

My 500" (4.15" stroker) kit from 440 source had the optional "I" beam rods and it fit without having to notch any of the cylinders. We just removed a very small amount of material off the side of the oil pickup boss.
If you get this kit, note that I had to remove some small burrs around the piston pin hole so the oil ring support rail would fit correctly.

My 528 Indy Maxx aluminum block has a finished deck height of 9.965 Bore 4.50 Wiseco pistons with the compression height 1.300 BME rods 6.570 center-center stroke 4.15 the crank has the RB(440)mains. I have the 572-13 heads.
I have the engine apart now,I had a roller on the lifter go out and some of it got picked up by the oil pump and spun a bearing.
What is the most cu. in. I can get out of this 9.965 deck height with 4.50 bore what stroke crank what lenth rods what compression height pistons should I use.Thanks

My car has a .040 400 block with a 4.15 stroke.Indy lil ez 295 heads and Indy intake and 11.5 static compression. The cam is a Comp Roller 268/276 @ .050 with .704 lift. It has been built 3 years,runs on pump gas,drag radials and mufflers. Just rolled over 3,000 street miles and around 100 1/4 mile passes. The only work done to it is I have adjusted the valves 3 times and changed the oil 5 or 6 times.I changed the plugs once. About 2 months ago I did a compression check and they were all 185 to 190 psi.Best ET to date is a 10.22 @ 129mph with a 1.419 60 foot on Mothers' Day weekend in Memphis.It weighs 3800 with me in it.

Oh I shift at 6500 and go through the lights at 68-6900.

The way you describe it your Longevity should be very good. The reason is you're camming it to take full advantage of the broad torque the motor will make inherently. The 512 Low deck B with a 4.25" stroke and the 6.535" rod and (same as a 451/6.76 combo) 1.30-1.32" CH piston is to my thinking anyway is the "new" 451, upsized to take advantage to so many head choices we never even imagined having 20 yrs ago when we were frankensteining these strokers with stock rods and "custom pistons). A 511 is a perfectly streetable and very durable combo with about the same rod and close to the same bore to stroke geometry as an OEM 454 chevy. The RB version is also a very sound combo though maybe not QUITE as strong in the main webs as the little brother block.

Longevity goes down on a dual purpose motor when you cam the motor to put the torque peak too far upstairs where you need real heavy springs and optimized tuning way up at the top for the best power. To me that's where the below the peak VE and drivability suffer so the motor's is only running in it's optimum state maybe 20% of the time cause the rest of the time you're just running part throttle.

My philosophy is to cam it to maximize the mid range (similar to an Engine Masters 2500-6500 highest average torque/power band) but put the very best flowing heads you can afford on it so in reality you're actually giving up very little on the big end compared to maybe a more agressively cammed motor with lesser heads...This is because your better haed flow isn't as peak lift and duration dependent to feed the volume a t the higher piston speed s 'cause the ports are adequately carrying the load.

Take a look at Mike Duarity's (props the the NC boys!) high 10 off the bottle/low 10 second on spray 3.23 geared 512" super bee. It's in the October Mopar Action.

Guys that think you need 4500 carbs ,4.30 gears and 4500+ stalls to make a 500" motor run strong (assuming a non 'full-race' street-strip type combo) could consider rethinking the combo; especially if you can run as quick or faster with much better (very near stock) street manners. Not say you CAN"T go fast or there's anything wrong with a more agressive combo, it's just to me kind of a waste of juicy torque and the $$$ you invest in the motor to move (or think you HAVE to move) most of it all upstairs. I do know that taking an inherent TORQUE motor and making it a HORSEPOWER motor will tend to be harder on parts just by virtue of the higher drivetrain shock loads and piston speeds.

I think you're heading the right direction, I'd look at a max wedge port window (Like the Super Victor, -1 or EZ-1) and the Indy Dual plane and a 950 or 1000HP 4150 carb if you're wanting a more efficient highway speed/street efficient stall and mid to high 3 gears. Even in what we would call a "mild" state of tune you're looking at you'll still have the oats to click off effortless low 11's at close to 120 mph in street trim and well into the 10's with Cal tracs, a loosened front suspension and good tires.