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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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This is how I do mine also.

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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I like where you are going to degree it help the big girl get moving!!!

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Ok let talk about this some..I wanted my cam in at 102. numbers are intake open at 32 deg and close at 56.5 . that is @ .050 after opening and .050 before closing. Now there are two-three ways to do this.. Not saying any one way is wrong. This is how I do it.. might be wrong ??

add 32+56.5 + 180 = 268.5 div by 2 =134.25 - 32 =102.25
show me your numbers and how you do it.

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Jamie thats the same way I check the numbers but
when I install it I sorta cheat. I have a gear drive
so I would (in your case) set the crank to 102 and
have the #1 intake at the top with my indicator on
it and slide the idler gear on... then make the before
and after(.050) checks to see if its correct and
adjust if needed

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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This is how I do mine also.

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Make that three

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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This is how I do mine also.

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Make that three

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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This is how I do mine also.

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Make that three

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I do the install like you guys are saying with the
.050 before and after, add then /2
For what Cab is saying about checking at the valve,
I dont usually check it there.... I just advance the
cam basically to give more torque and compensate
for the valve train loss

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Ari440

First you need to find true TDC. Use a stop and bring the piston up to it and record the reading (i.e. 10* to the right of 0). Now go backwards till the piston hits the stop. If the reading is the same (10* to the left of 0) you have TDC. If not adjust the pointer (or move the wheel) till the #'s are the same on either side of 0 TDC.

Now place your dial indicator on the intake liffter. Bring the lifter to max lift and zero the indicator. Now rotate untill you read .050 and record the #. Rotate back to 0 (max lift) and continue till you read .050 the other way. Record this #.

Add the 2 #'s togheter and divide by 2 and that is your intake CL.

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THANK YOU VERY MUCH BILL

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THANK YOU VERY MUCH BILL

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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that's how I did mine. find max lift w/ the dial indicator, 0 it out, then go .050 on either side, taking degree measurements. add them up and divide by 2....I was checking at the lifter, heads weren't on the motor yet.

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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When checking .050 before and after, turn it in it's normal direction, check .050 before, then .050 after, all in one direction. This will keep the chain tight and not add in the chain slop to your readings that will happen if you turn it back and forth.

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Forgot about that

Last cam I degreed was in the Jr and it has no chain

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The big thing to remember here is --degree the cam to know where its at SO you know which way to go - if need be - AFTER you run it some--The recommended spot is a good GUESS at where it should be to get the desired results BUT if you are say 1/8 miler vs. 1/4 etc you may need to advance or retard to get the exact performance out of it that you are looking for--I have seen BIG inch engines make 50 Ft lbs more on the dyno by retarding a little I have seen small block 1/8 milers tear the chrome off the rear bumper and pull like a rocket in the 1/8 but run out of steam in the 1/4 so---going crazy over a degree or two is USELESS--a good smart racer will move it around a little to FIND where it needs ( after RUNNING it )to be for his combo and desired results OR if it dynos great and you are winning races WHO cares what it is degreed at? - except to be able to put it back in the same place after teardown - Getting picky over HOW to get there is missing the point IMO --just do whatever you do the same way every time. One of the best ways - accurate every time - is with the tool in the lifter bore that holds the mic and measures straight off the lobe--- make it run good for real --not on paper

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measure off the lobe, go right to the source. the right tool and procedure will make it accurate every time.

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i do it @ .050 before and after max lift
add then divid by 2

Bob

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This is how I do mine also.

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I would like to see picture of you guys degree wheels..something don't add up here. just to take the 2 numbers and add and then div. Like my numbers..60 and 35 deg add them =95 div them by 2 =47 ???

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This is my small 11" wheel only one that will fit in the car. Have a bigger 14 or 16" real cool!

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This is my small 11" wheel only one that will fit in the car. Have a bigger 14 or 16" real cool!

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I don't own the smaller degree wheels,can you tell us the difference between them?

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I originally in the days before time had a direct connection 7"
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopdegwheel2.html
then later as the earth began to cool I got the 11 " fits just right down in the car
and now I have an 18"
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mor18degprow.html
The bigger they are the larger the numbers this does two things makes it easier to read and more accurate. I assume that's what your asking!!

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I was looking for accuracy and whether there was over 1 degree difference between them.I thought with all the pics,I might learn something important.

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Well in a 11" wheel you have .095 per degree and in a
18" wheel you have .157 per degree... you can get much
closer with the big wheel

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I was looking for accuracy and whether there was over 1 degree difference between them.I thought with all the pics,I might learn something important.

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Well as someone who started small the bigger they are the easier it is to be real accurate as you see much better and it's easier to see 1/4 and 1/3 degree's!
on a seven inch wheel the numbers are .061 apart.
on a 11 inch .096 apart. on a 14" .122 apart and on a 18" .150 apart. think that's the math
seen some on Top Fuel must be six feet in diameter.

I would say with a 7" hard to be within a degree on the 11 inch 1/2 a degree and the 18 inch I'm sure I'm bang on!!!!

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It's obvious the larger wheel SHOULD be more accurate. I was looking for some testing to confirm enough to replace my old unit. Guess I'll keep it.

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