I think the street driving will be better to be honest. I run mine on the street some and the battery holds up great. I think it is worse at the track when you only make a pass and then you run the fan/wp while cooling without the engine running.

I say with a good charging system you would be well off. Guess I could be wrong though.

I have a factory alternator , raced all night and i ran all my lights . No problems .


Didnt have to run the fan between rounds because it worked so good while it was running


I realize driving around for a few hours on the street might be different

I have a question too.

With the trimming you did, on the shroud, how close are the fans blades to the rad?

thanks alot
codfish

around 1/2 "

Thanks for the nice pics and it looks like that fan was made for an a-body.

Here are some HHR fan dimensions I found.

dustergirl, thats probably exactly what I'm looking for. Keep an open eye. Ill probably be sending you a message on here or myspace to find out some more details.

Those are good pics of the install, anybody try this on a early A

Because my rad was bigger than the fan/shroud and I had to offset it to the passenger side (to clear the water pump), I used the factory mounting locations on the driver's side, the one hole on the upper pass side and just drilled another hole in the lower pass side (as indicated by the red marks) and used those "push zip ties" for fans, etc.

Well, to keep this post current, I just ordered the HHR fan from Rock Auto too. AND I'm waiting on some dimension info from Griffin pertaining to one of their "Pro series" rads I saw on Summit.

Reason??

After this pass



Went back to the pits, and noticed coolant running down under the rad support. Loaded it up, and went home.
Made it to the semis too .

Took the fan out today, and saw this. Somehow, the fan decided to bury itself into the rad , opening up 5 or 6 tubes, and making the rest VERY thin. Rad is junk. The Zirgo fan won't be used again either. Don't know why it happened, but when I lay the fan on the workbench, the blades touch the bench before the "shroud". Like the shroud warped or something. IDK .
Probably cheaper to buy another rad than getting this one fixed.

Anyhow, the summit rad is 2.25" think at the core, and 3.5 ish at the tank. Griffin has a 2 row, with 1" tubes which is 2" think at the core. I'm waiting to see how thick the tanks are. If they're thinner than the summit rad, it MAY enable me to fit the rad and fan without trimming the core support .



codfish

ps where's the throwing money smilie

my griffen radiator lasted about 2 years beofre the epoxy the seals the tank to the tubes started leaking. i wont run another griffen radiator because of it. i like the summit radiator were they are welded instead of epoxy.

Actually that's another question I asked. I had an epoxied griffin before too, and it leaked just as the warranty expired. i know not all griffins are epoxied.

codfish

I just installed one in my Dart . Man that is close. I have a CSR water pump and an alumimen rad . I had to move it over to the drivers side about 2" to clear the pump. It is about 1/8" from the pump. It does pull alot of air . I did not have a chance to try it on the street.I raced all weekend the car barly went over 185 degrees.

sorry if i missed this somewhere before but where are you getting these from and what price are they running? will they keep one cool on the street? like 170-175? i have a lincoln mark8 fan they pull 5000cfm of air but its to thick does a hhr fan pull air like that? thanks

$55 from www.rockauto.com . Just look up a cooling fan for a 2007 chevy HHR. They supposedly pull 3000 or so cfm. Lots of guys here love them.

Do your self a favour and read this entire thread. Lots of good info shared.

codfish

$181.00 with taxes at a GM dealer in Nova Scotia. What a rip off.