How to: Power Lock thrust button removal?
#433079
08/09/09 09:52 PM
08/09/09 09:52 PM
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64Post
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Can someone point me to an online source for this, or maybe provide brief step-by-step instructions? I found the exploded diagram in the tech archives, but I'm unsure how to proceed. I'm somewhat lost inside a diff.
Last edited by 64Post; 08/10/09 01:52 AM.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#433081
08/09/09 11:09 PM
08/09/09 11:09 PM
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Does the locker/case come out just by pulling the axles out a bit and unbolting the 2 caps? Or, is there more to it?
Last edited by 64Post; 08/10/09 01:53 AM.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: 64Post]
#433083
08/11/09 07:36 PM
08/11/09 07:36 PM
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closer to Canadian beer!
torkrules
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Quote:
Does the locker/case come out just by pulling the axles out a bit and unbolting the 2 caps? Or, is there more to it?
Dana 60 or 8-3/4"? Dana 60 you gota pry out with two pry bars. Pretty tough to do with it in the car but not impossible. Just be careful as it's heavy. Technically you are supposed to use a case spreader but they are dangerous in the wrong hands (bends the case if spread too far).
8-3/4 are easy. Just back off the adjusters, take off the caps and lift it out.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: 64Post]
#433086
08/12/09 01:02 AM
08/12/09 01:02 AM
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Rather be in Fallon, Nevada
RussW
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If you got the cover off and the axles out you're 3/4 there. Use a box wrench on a ring gear bolt jammed against the housing on top and pry out carrier against the bottom side of the housing. Hammer carrier back in and you're done 
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#433087
08/12/09 01:10 AM
08/12/09 01:10 AM
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64Post
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Quote:
If your worried about the stock axle hitting the button with non stock axle bearings you can space the axle out(the early tapered axles where done that way from the factory) with shims so you get somewhere between .000 to maybe .006 end play  you could also grind a tiny bit off of the end of the axle until you get a little end play, use the same numbers on end play, IMO
Here's where it stands at the moment: I just stumbled on the thrust button issue a few days ago while perusing another thread. I replaced my bent, tapered bearing axles with green bearing ones. Per the other thread it was stated the green bearings didn't like to be side loaded via the thrust button. Well, due to my ignorance they were. Coincidentally, my rear started whining after about 100 miles of driving. It didn't whine when I put the new axles in. So I'm surmising that the bearings are trashed.
I'd love to get the button out, but I can't justify pulling the diff, dragging it to a shop, and spending a ton of money to do it. And it looks like there's no shortcut with a magnet. If I had to guess at this moment I would say 1/4" -- maybe more -- would have to come off each axle.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: 64Post]
#433089
08/12/09 01:54 AM
08/12/09 01:54 AM
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Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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With a posi unit in a street car I probably wouldn't install the "green" axle (ball) bearings. The Timken tapered axle bearings are a lot tougher than the "green" axle bearings are, especailly on a street car I had to use the "green" axle bearings in my 8 3/4 due to using the 35 spline axles and spool, it is in my Duster that I drive a little on the street(less than 2000 miles a yr.) and race it at the track 3 to 6 times a year. I have change gear ratio and center section about five times in the last four years, no trouble with the axle bearings yet  If I could have used a Timken tapered axle bearings in that rear end I would have I'm considering installing a Dana 60 in the car now (due to breakage on the ladder bar mounts on the housing   ),if I do it will have a Dana clutch type posi and a set of stock type axle bearings in it, not the "green bearings like now
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#433090
08/12/09 11:48 AM
08/12/09 11:48 AM
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64Post
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Quote:
With a posi unit in a street car I probably wouldn't install the "green" axle (ball) bearings. The Timken tapered axle bearings are a lot tougher than the "green" axle bearings are, especailly on a street car I
Dang it, Cab. Why did you have to throw that wrench into the works now. 
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: 64Post]
#433091
08/12/09 01:52 PM
08/12/09 01:52 PM
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torkrules
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Quote:
Quote:
With a posi unit in a street car I probably wouldn't install the "green" axle (ball) bearings. The Timken tapered axle bearings are a lot tougher than the "green" axle bearings are, especailly on a street car I
Dang it, Cab. Why did you have to throw that wrench into the works now.
FWIW I have used green bearings for years, first in my Charger with 10" rims with a large offset and now in my Road Runner. Yes, they are not as robust as the tapered bearings, but you should get a few years out of them.
I pulled the carrier from my old 73 D200 truck without removing the housing, albeit there is more room under the truck. Get the rear of the car up as high as practical, let the rear hang. try to get two pry bars at 12 and 6 O'clock with as much offset between the two as you can. Once you get it started you can then get the pry bars into the carrier sides (where the axles go) and pry it out the rest of the way.
The nice thing is that the back lash wont change as the shims are captured behind the side bearings so all you have to do is hammer it back in with a plastic hammer (don't forget to catch the bearing cups when they fall out).
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: LAR_414]
#433093
08/12/09 04:03 PM
08/12/09 04:03 PM
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Thanks for all the input, guys. I had an email offer of some local professional pro bono help if I need it. Thanks, again, Chris.  I stopped by the shop that originally did the rebuild and he showed me how he gets the carrier out, so now I have a number of ways to try. However, he doesn't seem to think it's a wheel bearing issue. He thinks I might have overloaded the pinions. We'll see... I'm fine with a service life of 50K miles on the greens. They'll last longer than I will.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: 64Post]
#433094
08/12/09 05:07 PM
08/12/09 05:07 PM
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Graham, WA
Polarapete
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I have never used a case spreader on a Dana 60! I always put an offset box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts after removing the carrier bearing caps and the axles, then I turn the pinion nut with a 1 5/16 socket on a breaker bar. The box end wrench contacts the housing as the ring gear is turned and it just jacks the carrier out of the case nice as you please. When the carrier is out far enough to get a screwdriver into the carrier bearings, a few gentle prys and it's out!
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: Polarapete]
#433095
08/12/09 05:29 PM
08/12/09 05:29 PM
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Quote:
I have never used a case spreader on a Dana 60! I always put an offset box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts after removing the carrier bearing caps and the axles, then I turn the pinion nut with a 1 5/16 socket on a breaker bar. The box end wrench contacts the housing as the ring gear is turned and it just jacks the carrier out of the case nice as you please. When the carrier is out far enough to get a screwdriver into the carrier bearings, a few gentle prys and it's out!
Yeah, that was going to be method # 2.
As it was, I stuck a rag between the drive pinion and ring gear, and the carrier walked itself right out. It was pretty painless actually and I never approached having a hissy fit.
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Re: How to: Power Lock thrust button removal
[Re: Polarapete]
#433096
08/13/09 08:57 AM
08/13/09 08:57 AM
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U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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Quote:
I have never used a case spreader on a Dana 60! I always put an offset box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts after removing the carrier bearing caps and the axles, then I turn the pinion nut with a 1 5/16 socket on a breaker bar. The box end wrench contacts the housing as the ring gear is turned and it just jacks the carrier out of the case nice as you please. When the carrier is out far enough to get a screwdriver into the carrier bearings, a few gentle prys and it's out!
But what about putting it back in ??? 
Dave , either trim your axles or go back to tapered bearings... 
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Sounds do-able. What concerns me is that I don't have much room between the housing and the floor though so, I might not be able to get a long enough bar in there. I'm already in enough of a bind from not thinking things through. 
