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Actually the Alterktion was made to improve handling AND header clearance.

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where did you get that from? it was built to handle and with the weight savings and header clearance along with how well it works, its found its way to the drag strip.

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I not too thrilled about the use of pinto/mustang 2 spindles on the alterktion kit as those cars never were designed to handle.

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whats so bad about the spindles? they aren't actually off a ford product. plus they are modified. bill thought about using mopar spindles but there were no real brake options out there at the time for a mopar spindle. and if there was it was very expensive. with the stang spindles it opens the doors to a ton of aftermarket brake options and the front end geometry is correct.

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Actually the Alterktion was made to improve handling AND header clearance.

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where did you get that from? it was built to handle and with the weight savings and header clearance along with how well it works, its found its way to the drag strip.

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IIRC when I first talked to him, what led him down the path of the alterkion was the issues with installing big blocks in A-bodies. Hence the name of his site. One of the concerns he had with a big block in an A-body is headers. At the time TTI's were sort of new. And even they are tight. This would be 1997/98??

At that time he was trying to decide on a computer suspension program to buy and design his first alterkion. His idea was to design it right with full attention to handling. And to have it modular for various motor and handling upgrades to boot.

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This would be 1997/98??

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That is exactly my point.

Of those cars none are 3800 lbs. all are under 3000 lbs. most have a race weight which was under 2300 lbs.

The other problem is exactly as you stated you have to design the whole car around the spindle itself and from what I remembered the spindle height is not ideally suited for a car made to handle.

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This would be 1997/98??

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Tech from 10 years ago.

Sorry if it seems I'm trying to bag on his work. I'm not trying to. I'm sure it is good and in many ways better than stock. Like many things it is a compromise, and you make the best with what you have currently.

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The suspension geometry tech hasn't changed. Bump steer, scrub radius, camber change, roll center, roll center change, caster change, anti dive... Same now and same then.


...These are good issues/topic/questions to bring to discussion.

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But there are trade offs with each design, for example the is not as much camber gain with the alterkation. Not that everyone believes you need so much. Plus wheel offset is limited.

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Then again with the XV I believe you are limited to 18" and above for wheels as the spindle height (I believe that is the limiting factor for them) prevents anything smaller.

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But there are trade offs with each design, for example the is not as much camber gain with the alterkation. Not that everyone believes you need so much. Plus wheel offset is limited.

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Not as much camber gain as what? Does he publish a comparison?

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Then again with the XV I believe you are limited to 18" and above for wheels as the spindle height (I believe that is the limiting factor for them) prevents anything smaller.

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Theres alway compromises with this suspension stuff. And there are often two or more different ways to get to the same place.

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Not as much camber gain as what? Does he publish a comparison?

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He meaning who?

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Theres alway compromises with this suspension stuff. And there are often two or more different ways to get to the same place.

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I.e. Guldstrand vs. Herb Adams?

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Hi!

I have been looking and the Alterktion front end kit and also they new rear suspension kit with triangulated 4 bars and coil overs.

I want o build a modern day musclecar with a viper drivetrain.

I was wondering if the front and rear Alterktion suspension and steering will make an old musclecar like an an E body or 68-69 Charger handle real good like a newer car.

Or will handling be just marginally improved over stock?

I would plan on doing some majour unibody stffening, maybe even a full cage, and the front and rear alterktion kit plus some real good brakes and 17" o 18" wheels with some serious tires.

I dont want to spend a ton on suspoension mods, a 500 hp modern drivertain, a 6 speed....and end up having thrown a lot of money on a car that looks cool but handles like a bulldozer.

If that will be the case, Id rather just keep it old school, which is cool as well.....and just get a newer car like a 2010 Camaro, Newer Challenger, or a vette.

I wonder how an old E body with all the tricks would stand against a 2009 Challenger.

Opinions????

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If you want to retain a stock look and get the positive caster back for your car. We just developed an adjustable strut rod that you can install in about an hour that will do both. Here is some info:

NEW FOR MOPARS – Developed by DIXIE RESTORATION PARTS

ADJUSTABLE STRUT RODS FOR A, B, & E, BODIES

“ GET YOUR CASTER BACK”

OVER ONE INCH OF ADJUSTMENT TO GET BACK THE CASTER LOST BY INSTALLING POLYGRAPHITE OR POLYURETHANE ON SOME APPLICATIONS.

“BENEFITS”

* “NEW” MADE FROM VERY HIGH STRENGTH ¾ INCH MATERIAL
* UP TO 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN STOCK RODS
* MADE TO PERCISION SPECS., FOR STOCK LOOK AND FIT “ JUST LIKE FACTORY RODS”
* NO NEED FOR OFFSET UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
* NO NEED TO BUY EXPENSIVE AFTER MARKET ARMS WITH HIEMS ENDS
* EASY TO INSTALL
* MADE IN THE USA BY CERTIFIED CAR NUTS TO ENSURE HIGH QUALITY

For you guys running larger than stock wheel tire combos, the forces exerted on your suspension during cornering is much greater with larger tires/wheels than the stock strut rods were designed for. These improved rods will easily handle those forces and allow for a more stable car at high speeds if you desire to adjust it as such.

If you want more info, call us or email us and we'll be glad to help. We sold out of all the ones we brought to both Carlisle and the Nats. You can use any brand bushing you want.

Thanks,
Randy

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Yours are not the first.

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Alot of the Australian Mopars came that way factory actually.....

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Many of those claims you make are off base.

Adjustable strut rods with bushings ARE a nice way to add some extra adjustment to your car for alignment.

There have been others that offer adjustable strut rods. Yours are not the first.

The stock forged strut rods have been fine strength-wise and proven in many cars that develop high cornering forces. Including dedicated track cars. Tim W with 275 wide sticky race tires has not broken or bent a stock strut rod. You might if you hit something you shouldn’t have.

The strut rods takes most of the forces from braking along with the upper control arm. Not much side load goes through the strut arm.

And adjustable strut rod is nice for fine tuning alignment. But relying on an adjustable lower control for all your caster adjustment could add to other issues.

Shortening the strut rod forward reduces the clearance between the tire to front lower wheelwell. This is the area most all older mopar run into tire rubbing in the front. If you shorten the strut rod 1", the tire clearance will be reduced at least 1/2". A litte more than 1/2" because the axle centerline is a little closer to the lower ball joint (LBJ) than the upper ball joint (UBJ).

When you use offset bushings or a tubular upper control arm made to add caster the UBJ moves back and actually increases tire clearance.

Also shortening the strut rod too much will twist the LCA bushings. The rubber can take more misalignmen, but the polyurethane LCA bushing is just a plain bearing. If you pull the LCA forward too much with an adjustable strut rod you will twist on the polyurethane LCA bushing. Might oblong the bushing.

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If you want to retain a stock look and get the positive caster back for your car. We just developed an adjustable strut rod that you can install in about an hour that will do both. Here is some info:

NEW FOR MOPARS – Developed by DIXIE RESTORATION PARTS

ADJUSTABLE STRUT RODS FOR A, B, & E, BODIES

“ GET YOUR CASTER BACK”

OVER ONE INCH OF ADJUSTMENT TO GET BACK THE CASTER LOST BY INSTALLING POLYGRAPHITE OR POLYURETHANE ON SOME APPLICATIONS.

“BENEFITS”

* “NEW” MADE FROM VERY HIGH STRENGTH ¾ INCH MATERIAL
* UP TO 5 TIMES STRONGER THAN STOCK RODS
* MADE TO PERCISION SPECS., FOR STOCK LOOK AND FIT “ JUST LIKE FACTORY RODS”
* NO NEED FOR OFFSET UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS
* NO NEED TO BUY EXPENSIVE AFTER MARKET ARMS WITH HIEMS ENDS
* EASY TO INSTALL
* MADE IN THE USA BY CERTIFIED CAR NUTS TO ENSURE HIGH QUALITY

For you guys running larger than stock wheel tire combos, the forces exerted on your suspension during cornering is much greater with larger tires/wheels than the stock strut rods were designed for. These improved rods will easily handle those forces and allow for a more stable car at high speeds if you desire to adjust it as such.

If you want more info, call us or email us and we'll be glad to help. We sold out of all the ones we brought to both Carlisle and the Nats. You can use any brand bushing you want.

Thanks,
Randy

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Sorry for any confusion on my post. I responded to Domingo's original post about a low buck alternative to improve handling. If money is not an object, XV or Alterkation are good products.

We understand that we are not the first to offer adjustable strut rods. Nor did we claim to be. Other companies offer this product at various prices. We feel ours are of a higher quality than most, and are more stock in appearance than the others.

Hope this clears up any confusion.

Thanks,
Randy

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How much does a viper engine weigh compared to a 5.7 or 6.1 Hemi anyway? I know you want the viper drivetrain but I'm curious as to how much weight it puts over the nose compared to the other modern alternatives.

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I would prefer going with a much cooler and more exotic engine like the one on the viper. Plus the t56 6 speed comes attahced already!

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way cooler

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With all that debate between the XV & RMS setups, nobody mentioned the MagnumForce version. Is anyone using it? Is it a viable contender with the other two or is it junk?

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