Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#429535
08/06/09 10:44 AM
08/06/09 10:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,610
Not2farfromNashville, TN
Rug_Trucker
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,610
Not2farfromNashville, TN
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Can't answer your question. What size six is that? 225 or 198?
"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing"
"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#429539
08/07/09 09:40 AM
08/07/09 09:40 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
Southeast Michigan
Mr Belvedere II
member
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member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
Southeast Michigan
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I talked to Schumacher at Carlisle and they do not make a /6 to B/RB mount for the B or E body. I was looking for the Belvedere; the guy told me it was because of the relative availability of K-members and the amount of people doing /6 to B/RB swaps in B/E bodys comparison to A body.
67 Belvedere II
225 Slant Six
383 on the stand
The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. - Thomas Jefferson
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Mr Belvedere II]
#429540
08/08/09 07:32 PM
08/08/09 07:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
I talked to Schumacher at Carlisle and they do not make a /6 to B/RB mount for the B or E body. I was looking for the Belvedere; the guy told me it was because of the relative availability of K-members and the amount of people doing /6 to B/RB swaps in B/E bodys comparison to A body.
Hmmm... i'm guessing thats the answer then. If they dont make a specific one, and they didn't tell you the A-body ones would work, then i guess they wont work.
Dammit, that would have been easy... this stupid project might never get started...
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#429541
08/10/09 09:10 AM
08/10/09 09:10 AM
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
Southeast Michigan
Mr Belvedere II
member
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member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
Southeast Michigan
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If you have a K-Member, just swap it. This is what I am doing on the Belvedere for a similar swap. Even if you do not have a hoist it is a day job. I think the worst part is pulling the torsion bars.
If you have hoist access, leave the engine/tranny on the K-member. If you dont, pull them.
In the long run the K-member swap is the right way to do the job.
67 Belvedere II
225 Slant Six
383 on the stand
The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. - Thomas Jefferson
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Pale_Roader]
#429543
08/11/09 10:29 AM
08/11/09 10:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 18,678
Fresno, CA
Jim_Lusk
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 18,678
Fresno, CA
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Well, here's the deal. I suspect the front end needs a rebuild anyway, bigger torsion bars are better for the street, disc brakes are recommended, etc. It's not just a drop in a big motor and go have fun.
It won't be cheap, but there won't be much labor difference between just replacing the k-member and rebuilding the whole front end while replacing the k-member. I don't know what your financial situation is, but if you don't have really deep pockets you need to learn to do these jobs yourself or you'll go broke trying to build a car. I can just about guarantee you that buying some suspension tools and a cherry picker will be cheaper than the labor you will pay.
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Jim_Lusk]
#429544
08/11/09 11:02 AM
08/11/09 11:02 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,183
eganville ont
440beep
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,183
eganville ont
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Yeah it will take a day to swap everything from a 6 into an 8. Providing you don't to replace any of the seals on the ball joints and have to replace any of the bushings then u need a big block rad, big block torsion bars, motor mounts for the 4 40, clutch fan, the 4 speed transmition, drive shaft etc etc. Do you really want to do this? Leave it as a 6 and go cruise in the car.
Plymouth's gonna getcha!
There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, & slant 6 Dusters
71 gtx 440 4speed air grabber blue on blue with white vinyl roof
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: 440beep]
#429545
08/11/09 11:12 AM
08/11/09 11:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
Yeah it will take a day to swap everything from a 6 into an 8. Providing you don't to replace any of the seals on the ball joints and have to replace any of the bushings then u need a big block rad, big block torsion bars, motor mounts for the 4 40, clutch fan, the 4 speed transmition, drive shaft etc etc. Do you really want to do this? Leave it as a 6 and go cruise in the car.
I meant JUST the actual K-member. I know how long the other stuff takes, i've done plenty o engine swaps.
And yeah, it has to be done. A cool lookin' Challenger that cant outrun a 90's minivan would be fun for about a minute and a half, not to mention sound like [Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean]. Nope, its gotta be a V8, hell, any V8 really. I'd even entertain the idea ov tooling around in a 318 for now... at least i could get that to run with stock 5.0L's and sound half decent...
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: 440beep]
#429547
08/11/09 11:53 AM
08/11/09 11:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,288
Stroudsburg, PA
Erik
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,288
Stroudsburg, PA
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I did this when I swapped the /6 out of my Challenger 'vert. If you don't want to mess w/ the suspension, just undo the lower ball joints, the steering box/idler arms and the torsion bars. Pull the old k-member, put in the new k member, attach everything back up and align. It took me about 1/2 day. This was done w/ the engine out of the car. If I were you, I would swap the torsion bars out while you do the k-frame. I would also recommend swapping the brakes. A 440 is a lot more weight to handle than a /6. I wouldn't drive one on the /6 bars and the small drum brakes.
1970 Challenger Convertible soon to be T/A convertible
Contrary to the opinions of some, I am not dumber than I look.
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Re: Schumacher A-body 6cyl/BB swap mounts work in E-body?
[Re: Erik]
#429548
08/11/09 10:24 PM
08/11/09 10:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
Pale_Roader
OP
Swears too much
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OP
Swears too much
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,862
the frozen wastes...
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Quote:
I did this when I swapped the /6 out of my Challenger 'vert. If you don't want to mess w/ the suspension, just undo the lower ball joints, the steering box/idler arms and the torsion bars. Pull the old k-member, put in the new k member, attach everything back up and align. It took me about 1/2 day. This was done w/ the engine out of the car. If I were you, I would swap the torsion bars out while you do the k-frame. I would also recommend swapping the brakes. A 440 is a lot more weight to handle than a /6. I wouldn't drive one on the /6 bars and the small drum brakes.
The suspension is pretty solid, better than a lot ov cars i've driven hard, good enough for now. But i will be swapping T-bars, this aint gonna be a drag car. I'll either use the 440 bars i have now or buy some 1" bars. The brakes are a whole other issue though. Mine are fine, work great, but they are the small drums. I may have to just putter around for a bit and avoid the highway while i figure out what i'm gonna replace 'em with. I was leaning towards the good ol' Mopar Action 11.75" disc swap, but right now i cant seem to find any spindles locally (without having to wreck a perfectly good car that is).
The suspension is gonna need pretty much everything... like every little (and big) piece, to go from stock 6cyl to road race, so i want to save up and get the XV stage I kit, a 16:1 manual box and fast ratio pitman. Also want to get some real brakes. So spending any money on this stuff before then is a waste. I just need to get it driving.
This car didn't even come with a front sway bar, so i'll be compensating for that somewhat with higher spring rates for now. Done that before and it was half-decent.
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