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Anyone had any issues with the #7 cylinder tube, which is a slip tube, not clearing the torsion bar with the small block step 1 5/8" headers? What did you do? Everything fits like a glove except for this. The torsion bar is a 1" firm feel bar and the car is a 71 dart. I can't ding the tube because it's right at that slip connection.

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I love my s/b tti's.
they fit perfectly and were installed in less than an hour.
did you measure where the engine sits in the bay first,as per instructions?

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For my money tti's are the best out there,my #7 tube touchs ever so slightly on the driverside torsion bar,but thats from launching it so hard at the track,no big deal still worth all the money i spent..and still look great after 3 seasons

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the engine is sitting perfect. Also called tti....they were no help. Ended up breaking out the hammer .

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For my money tti's are the best out there,my #7 tube touchs ever so slightly on the driverside torsion bar,but thats from launching it so hard at the track,no big deal still worth all the money i spent..and still look great after 3 seasons

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for the money nothing should hit. Close only counnts in horseshoes and handgrandes.
My $109 headers fit w/o a dent or a dimple.

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Get a b-body,3" stuff fits like a glove.

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or the car is bent or the engine is not sitting in the optimal spot.

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That was my case - had to give my .990 bars a little "tweaking" after I installed my 383 into my Duster.

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or the car is bent or the engine is not sitting in the optimal spot.

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That was my case - had to give my .990 bars a little "tweaking" after I installed my 383 into my Duster.

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For my money tti's are the best out there,my #7 tube touchs ever so slightly on the driverside torsion bar,but thats from launching it so hard at the track,no big deal still worth all the money i spent..and still look great after 3 seasons

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for the money nothing should hit. Close only counnts in horseshoes and handgrandes.
My $109 headers fit w/o a dent or a dimple.

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For my money tti's are the best out there,my #7 tube touchs ever so slightly on the driverside torsion bar,but thats from launching it so hard at the track,no big deal still worth all the money i spent..and still look great after 3 seasons

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for the money nothing should hit. Close only counnts in horseshoes and handgrandes.
My $109 headers fit w/o a dent or a dimple.

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Ya,and they probably hit every pothole,bump,or speed bump and have all kinds on dings and dents..while tti's sit nice and high hitting nothing and still looking new after 3 years,bet yours are all rusted..pay $109.00 4 times or $650.00 once and never need another header again..

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But tti's fit perfect on everything...

sarcasm off!

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Then during install I find out they don't work with head studs so I had to take them out and replace a couple head studs with bolts. They said they would work with an OEM starter yea right I had 3 mini starters here none of them would fit so I had to buy another mini starter for I think $200 and still had to bend one of the tubes so it wasn't sitting on the starter.

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yeah my buddy bought the entire kit for his 69 RR, headers back and only 2.5 inch. They hit everything but the kitchen sink...and this was a fresh resto. I'm so not impressed w/ them. Maybe you need them for an A-body, but not for a B-body.

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TTI makes a good exhaust system and headers. As in any product there is room for improvement. In their defense however they are not snake charmers like that company that sell perfect fit tremecs that don't fit without a BFH. Currently I am wrestling with a 1970 Charger R/T [440] with TTI headers/exhaust system [2.5 inch].

I had to cut the head studs and clearance the bottom of flanges to eliminate the interference with the nut to make the headers fit to the engine properly. I did not see this warning anywhere in the destructions nor did I read about it anywhere on the WWW. [Ignorance or lack of info is not an excuse for not paying attention to the details.] Once the drivetrain was in the car [we did the body drop method] I could not get the left side exhaust to line up with the header flange. This particular car has not led a charmed life and had been in a fender bender or 2 before it was resurrected to money pit status. Note: All sheet metal lines up and the door fit nice so any body tweaks are not readily apparent.

To solve the fitment issue the engine mounts were unbolted from the k frame and the engine assembly refitted to the k frame. That helped. Then I discovered the aftermarket trans mount measured 3/16's taller than than the stock mount. That helped. Careful measuring determined the right side [passenger] needed to be picked up about 1/8". A 1/8 shim placed under the right side mount solved the rest of the problem and the system now fits well.

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