Just to say in a way thanks to the community; I'll post my pics after using 10 Cans of RUSTOLEUM 's 2x PAINTER'S TOUCH SPRAY PAINT because of simplicity of spray paint


BEFORE


AFTER



I did not get shine; but then again i only did 3 coats and did not do a final sanding nor polishing(the hood I experimented w/ rubbing compound but did not get results). When wet thou it looks really good.
Next time i'll try rollers

I used the gloss white on my truck, and used a combination of spray on and roll on Rustoleum. They matched perfectly, and for me, I thought the spray actually went on a lot smoother, but tended to run if I went too heavy.

Overall, I like the roller method better, because it's 1.) cheaper, and 2.) doesn't drift like the spray and get all over everything else, and 3.) less wasteful because of lack of drift, and 4.) can be touched up if it runs, but if the spray-on stuff runs, you're pretty much out of luck, and 5.) you can load more paint on per coat without it running.

Ace Rust Stop Enamel has a tintable base. I picked up a gallon of Mopar's Tahitian Gold for the Serious Satellite project. I went with the non metallic base, but I'm going to try a quart of Tahitian Gold metallic base after I lay the non metallic down.

At two different Ace stores in the Dayton area I've been in they can mix up the custom colors.

I matched up the paint I wanted with a paint chip. I actually had to go to Lowe's to matchup the paint from 1974 with a chip of similar color, then took it to ACE and they mixed it off of that chip. Pretty easy. And cheap.

If you have a Menards they might custom mix Rustoleum paint. They sell tintable bases there but they also have a brochure that shows custom colors. I asked if they only make the colors in the brochure or if they would make a custom one. The guy told me he could make a color if I brought in a sample. The next time I inquired about it I was told they didn't color match Rustoleum so maybe it depends on who is working there.

the ace stop rust stuff sounds interesting? I might have to check it out.

did some more painting today, I'll call this my second coat on the fenders.



rear apron and deck lid had another coat, I keep having to fix small defects in the body work on it which is making it take a little longer.

hi guys.

about 2 years ago i read through this whole thing.

i didtn go the roller route. i sprayed the rustoleum. it turned out really nice and glossy. but i wetsanded with 2000, then used turtlewax rubbing compound, then turtlewax polishing compound. its lost all of its shine. from a sharp angle it looks nice and glossy but if you look at it straight on it appears hazy. how can i get that shine back?

Did you ever wax after you finished? These paint jobs really need a good coat of wax to protect them, unlike factory paint jobs where the clearcoat provides most of the protection.

Unwaxed paint with no clearcoat acts almost like a sponge for dirt and dust and road grit and bird poop and everything else a car's paint job is exposed to.

I'm finding that myself, since I park under a tree where birds roost at night. When they crap on my white paint, the stuff can in some cases become almost etched into the paint. I have yet to find a way to remove the really stubborn stuff. About all I can think of is to put another coat of wax on and hope that helps.

no no wax yet. i just finished spraying it on sunday. it is still in the paint booth lol

I also just finished! Now I'm wondering:

- should I wait a while before polishing, to let the paint harden?

- should I polish at all?! this guy on youtube has good results; supraghost and others say it takes any shine you do have out!

- thinking about getting this polisher from Can tire to use. it's on sale half price

By the way.. I just did the hood of my car to start. It looks decent, but the shininess is not equal over the entire hood. I'm hoping some shine or waxing will help that out.

waxing the whole car with a porter cable polisher from harbor freight is a must after using polishing compound.

got another coat on, I'm on a "roll"








is it wrong that I'm starting to become attracted to my car?

polishing definitely brings out the shine - unless you try to do it when the paint is still curing. Then it just gets more dull the more you do.

this was waiting a couple months for wet sanding/rubbing out and final polish - but before wax






The gloss thats on the paint when it dries is nothing compared to the shine after its rubbed out

I cound't take it anymore, I thought this might ruin the final result of this project but what the heck

I did a mock up of everything

thats gonna look nice

and I want that little chopper thingy in the background in additions to the little herby


you have so many toys..

thats one of the New Stingrays. I LOVE that bike, I get so many compliments on it. It was the very last blue and green one they had!

Thats going to look sweet TheYoungGun.
I did the same exact thing, i grabbed the grill, stuck it on with two bolts along with the bumper and such

I have not read any of the other 138 pages of posts about the stated topic but I am a little confused about how some people in the last page or 2 are after a decent paint job starting off using inferior products. To spend a bunch of time on the prep work then use a crap paint then spend a bunch of time trying to make it look like something better after it's painted seems like 1 step forward & 2 steps backwards. Why not buy a cheaper line of paint like delstar/centari that shines good, is easy to apply, covers many imperfections, is more resonably priced and not require anything once done? Is that still beyond the budget part of this post or did I miss something in the other 138 pages? no I'm not going to go back and read them all

oh here we go...

yeah, you should read back. You will find many that:

a) don't have the budget
b) car isn't worth the cost of a paint job (me!!)
c) painted so many cars correctly this method fascinated them (again me!)


My project was to make an embarrassing rusted out car look as good as it ran - its got a lot of drivetrain mods, but I did it on a car that was primarily the winter beater to my good car.
So now instead of being worth maybe $500, I've increased the value to many thousands more. And looking at it there's no way you can tell its rolled on - it actually has a better finish than my other 2 cars

And I didn't need a paint booth, no overspray into my shop or house, no cleanup, and I got a good workout at the same time!

I also have to agree about the troubles spraying, it gets EVERYWHERE!!

when I first attempted to paint my car with rattle cans I had breathing problems almost a year after, not to mention it caused a ton of arguing between me and my mom.

I never would have been able to afford a spray on paint job for 10 years if I didn't do it this way.

all in all it really isn't much more work than spraying on paint.