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I'm thinking about using some engine degreaser on the other half of my car before starting the sanding. I have a feeling it may be from turtle wax applied recently. Or the large amount of soap in my water I washed the car with. But I have to go for black, its the OEM color and I have to change my title and registration and insurance if I paint it and I don't wanna go through the trouble.

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Hey guys, long time follower, first time poster. I recently sanded down the rear half of car, I started with a whipe over of all the panels with goo-gone( a common household solvent) and soap and water. After I was satisfied with the clean, I sanded with 100, 150, 220, 320 and finally 400. It felt pretty smooth. I washed it down with smelly mineral spirits and then let it dry for 45 minutes. Since I had quite a bit of filler,I then rolled on a layer of rustoleum, clean metal primer (white colored stuff). I rolled it on with a 9" roller for some odd reason, it was just what I had around and it had a black foam cover thing on it. This was ultimately not the best idea as it gave it quite a bit of texture and was hard to maneuver. However, I saw no drips and the orange peel was very easy to deal with. I was satisfied with my result even though several places I had accidentally sanded down to bear metal when sanding down some more bondo I had put over the primer and then covered with rattlecan filler primer. So yesterday, I had cleaned the car and whipped down my panels with odor MS. Letting these dry for roughly half an hour, I mixed my rustoleum black *came in a quart* with mineral spirits till it seemed to be about the thickness of water *It ended up being about 60% mineral spirits*. I then rolled it onto my car with a 4 inch high-density roller. Instantly, I noticed a TON of bubbles which I needed to blow on very very hard to pop. So I tried chasing it with a 3" black foam brush. First thing I noticed were brush marks from the brush, it seemed to push the paint around too much and the primer underneath was exposed. It looked bad. So I decided not to chase it and see if I could just pop these bubbles with my roller, just rolling back over them with my roller. The roller seemed to even the paint out a bit but still left plenty of bubbles. This annoys me like crazy but I figured the bubbles would pop and self level. Well they did pop, but they seemed to leave thicker spots of paint around them so now it looks very blotchy. I also noticed I have tons of runs. In sanding out the runs and bubbles, I wetsanded with 400 grit like I did on the primer coat. This seems to cut quickly through the paint around the imperfections. it took a long time to get through the drips and bubbles and often cut straight through to the factory paint. I was using a block for most of this sanding. Also, the paint is not very even at all but seems to be alot better on verticle panels like my rear fenders rather than the hood lid. Any suggestions? I'm thinking thicker paint, any other ideas? Thanks for the help!

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I've been using both a foam brush and a roller for the second pass and my experience is that the timing is critical and is dependant on which tool you're using.

If you're using a brush for the second pass then you should hit it immediately to avoid leaving brush strokes. If you do this and you're still getting brush strokes, then you're paint is probably too thick.

If you're using a roller for the second pass, its best to wait 3 - 4 minutes for the paint to begin to set. You want to use very light pressure to just pop the bubbles. If you start the second roller too soon, you'll just be creating more bubbles in the meantime.

Regardless of method, thin paint applied sparingly will reduce the amount of sanding and give a better finish.

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Anyone here ever use Duplicolor's primers?

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Can I sand the entire car with 80 then 220..then spray either the filler or high build primer?

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I would then dry sand the entire car with 400 grit, then roll first coats of paint?

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Anyone here ever use Duplicolor's primers? I'm currently sanding down OG paint(not to bare metal)and doing some filler work. I'm mostly curious about Duplicolor's sandable and high build primers. Does the high build or sandable fill 80, 180, or 220 grit?

Can I sand the entire car with 80 then 220..then spray either the filler or high build primer?


I would then dry sand the entire car with 400 grit, then roll first coats of paint?

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I would not use high build primer anywhere that you don't have chips. When I used it, it filled in chips in my original paint very nicely but it did take a little while to sand down. I didn't notice any problems with clogging or the like, and it sprayed on pretty nice. Just make sure to clear the nozzle after each use and you should be okay. I don't recommend doing an entire panel with it however as it really does build and you'll have trouble keeping some of the original shape. Just my .

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Peck, the biggest reason to use primer over sanded painted surfaces is to provide a uniform surface to paint over. An example would be my truck. It is currently at least 5 different colors and each color would cause the paint to appear differently, especially with the first thin coats. If it was all one uniform color, the paint will cover more evenly. Also, the key is to not sand down to the base coat.

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Sounds like a good plan. However, don't tell yourself, "Oh it's only primer, I don't need to be too careful laying it down."

That's what I did and wound up with a lot of drips and rough areas and roller marks. These areas take a week or more to dry all the way through (because the paint is so thick) so most of them didn't get sanded smooth.

As a result, not only do they show through my main coat, but I also kept sanding through to them while wet sanding later coats, and they really stuck out because my primer is a darker color. And once that happens, you have to try to build the paint back up to the same level as the surrounding paint and let it dry and that's an f'in nightmare.

So be really careful to avoid drips, roller marks and rough areas, and when it's dry, wet sand your primer as absolutely flat as you can get it, because believe me, any rough areas will definitely show through your main coat and cause big headaches. .

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Apparently when you're dealing with Armor All, something a bit stronger than Mineral Spirits is needed, but what?

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