|
Re: Fixing up the new Toy
[Re: aussie]
#38515
10/29/08 12:08 AM
10/29/08 12:08 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
started painting my hood sanded it down to 220. cleaned everything with the MS and layed down my first coat. Its drying right now but some how little pieces of hairs or somthign got in the paint so im going to have to sand that all out. here are some pics.   [/URL]  [/URL]
|
|
|
Re: Satin/Flat finish
[Re: Marq]
#38517
11/01/08 10:02 AM
11/01/08 10:02 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,590
Piqua, Ohio
dodgeram440
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,590
Piqua, Ohio
|
I have a question regarding painting now that it's getting cold outside. I plan on using the roller method to paint my truck eventually, but I still have a lot of body work left to do. I'm currently working third shift so I don't presently have a whole lot of time to really do anything right now, nor really the money to do it, but I have to do something soon. Awhile back, I sanded the hood down to bare metal to take care of some rust issues, then just shot with a couple coats of Rustoleum spray primer and left it at that. Now, it's starting to rust through the primer and, with winter coming, I know I need to get some kind of paint on it quick. So I just figured for a quick fix, I'm going to resand it, primer, then spray some paint on it. The thing is, I sleep all day, this is my daily driver and I don't have a garage to keep it in. My concerns are about driving it with relatively fresh paint (if I was to paint it around 5pm and I go to work at 10pm), and what might happen with a cold, dewey, or frosty morning. Also, when I resand this, should I use the rust converter/primer, or just use the Rustoleum primer again? Any advice out there?
|
|
|
Re: Satin/Flat finish
[Re: dodgeram440]
#38518
11/02/08 08:57 AM
11/02/08 08:57 AM
|
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
|
Quote:
I have a question regarding painting now that it's getting cold outside. I plan on using the roller method to paint my truck eventually, but I still have a lot of body work left to do. I'm currently working third shift so I don't presently have a whole lot of time to really do anything right now, nor really the money to do it, but I have to do something soon. Awhile back, I sanded the hood down to bare metal to take care of some rust issues, then just shot with a couple coats of Rustoleum spray primer and left it at that. Now, it's starting to rust through the primer and, with winter coming, I know I need to get some kind of paint on it quick. So I just figured for a quick fix, I'm going to resand it, primer, then spray some paint on it. The thing is, I sleep all day, this is my daily driver and I don't have a garage to keep it in. My concerns are about driving it with relatively fresh paint (if I was to paint it around 5pm and I go to work at 10pm), and what might happen with a cold, dewey, or frosty morning. Also, when I resand this, should I use the rust converter/primer, or just use the Rustoleum primer again? Any advice out there?
Ok... so let's break this down :
a ) cold temperatures mean a longer curing time is required or the paint/primer stays soft
b ) moisture, humidity or gawd forbid snow means the paint will take a foggy appearance and a slightly slow drying time.
I would probably suggest the following prescription for your situation :
a ) sand the primer down to smooth it all out and to remove where the rust stain is breaking through.
b ) don't prime. Go straight to laying on a coat of Rustoleum/Tremclad or Brightside. They all have the ability to serve as a basecoat/primer and they have the ability to stop oxygen from getting through to the metal ( therefor starving rust of the oxygen supply that it needs to grow ).
Ok... now what I would do.... is for that first coat of paint ( after the removal of the primer and rust ) is to be a bit of a farmer ( no offence meant ) and just lay on a straight coat of paint ( undiluted or with very very little mineral spirit added to it ).
The idea being to get as nice thick coat down to ensure the starvation of oxygen from the rust/bare metal.
The thing is that when you next have the opportunity to do a sanding and your next coat, you will be able to sand off any irregularities in the smoothness of the painted surface.
The subsequent coats of paint will be done with the normal dilutions of mineral spirit ( in order to lay only a very thin coat of paint for each subsequent layer ).
There is no problem if you have foggy paint for the initial layers. The wet sanding prior to each coat will remove the outer skin layer where the fog is actually located ( if it happens at all ).
A lot of this will also depend on what color you are going to be using. For obvious reasons the fogging is more noticable with the darker colors... and less noticable with the lighter colors.
EVEN if there is a slight fog on your final coat of paint... that is something that the final wetsanding, polishing and waxing should be able to make disappear.
NOW.. there is no problem with driving the vehicle during the painting. But you have to keep in mind that the paint will be slightly less cured ( hardened ) depending how soon after painting you hit the road and cruise. You also will having all kind of 'road crap' landing on the curing paint. So all that means is that WHEN you go to do the next layer of paint, you will have to spend a little extra time preparing the surface to be painted. It may require a little more wet sanding ( to take the previous coat of paint to a clean surface of paint ) AND it will require a little more attention to thoroughly wiping down the wet sanded surface to remove all the artifacts lifted by the wet sanding ( since you are removing the sanded off crap and any contaminants that may have landed on the paint ( bird poo... dust... bugs that have splattered on to it... strange liquids that have landed on it from cars in front of you or that sprayed off their tires. ( its amazing the crap that is turned up by the cars in front of you.. dust, dirt, road oils etc ). So that is why you have to do a thorough disinfecting of the surface prior to adding your next coat of paint.
.
|
|
|
Re: 3M Panel Bonding Material
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38521
11/04/08 04:00 PM
11/04/08 04:00 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Just curious about the technique used by the guys who are using the panel bonding adhesive. There appear to be 2 possible ways of fitting the patch panel into the existing /remaining structure so that it has a flush fit. 1. Create a flange either on the patch panel or the remaining work. 2. Place "backing plates" or "backing strips" behind the edges of the remaining work, and then placing a flat patch panel against those. Here a great article and series of photos showing the second method. Couldn't find any visuals on the first. If my explanation isn't clear, I think you guys will get it from looking at this. Kevin Tetz BondingWant to know what you've found works and what is easiest or best.
|
|
|
Re: paint job on a budget!?
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38524
11/07/08 04:07 PM
11/07/08 04:07 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
I'd like to thank everyone over the last three years for giving my life new direction. lol Can't wait to get started! 
|
|
|
err
[Re: aussie]
#38525
11/10/08 04:42 PM
11/10/08 04:42 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Im back, its been a while. Its almost been a year since ive started this project. Now I understand home improvements running gag, ya know Tim's car he never finishes? anyways, last coat, and ready to wetsand. Am I sanding too much? (using 1000g) 
Last edited by Mx2001; 11/10/08 04:44 PM.
|
|
|
Re: err
#38526
11/11/08 12:34 AM
11/11/08 12:34 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
_Scott_
member
|
member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
|
Quote:
Am I sanding too much? (using 1000g)
Not at all. The area inside the red ellipse is perfect. The rest needs more sanding.
|
|
|
Re: err
[Re: _Scott_]
#38527
11/11/08 11:24 AM
11/11/08 11:24 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
ok excellent. the sanded surface should go back to its original color after polishing right?
|
|
|
Re: err
#38528
11/11/08 12:32 PM
11/11/08 12:32 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
Donny O.
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
|
Quote:
ok excellent. the sanded surface should go back to its original color after polishing right?
that is the idea. I would go to 1500 then maybe 2000 grit paper before polishing or else it will take forever polishing!!
|
|
|
Re: err
[Re: Donny O.]
#38529
11/13/08 04:56 PM
11/13/08 04:56 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
This is probably a dumb question, but I dont have access to a spray gun or air compressor, can I buy automotive paint and add reducer and apply it with a brush? Would it self level like the rustoleum? Im not looking to paint a car, but a motorcycle tank.
Thanks,
|
|
|
Re: err
#38530
11/13/08 07:34 PM
11/13/08 07:34 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
ridin98ci
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 201
Martin TN
|
If u want an auto finish that's easy use dupli-color  its very easy...tons of colors...if you want to roll it on you are kinda limited to color choices  ..I still haven't been able to get much of a shine on mine!!! 
LOUD AND PROUD!!!
|
|
|
Re: err
#38531
11/13/08 08:47 PM
11/13/08 08:47 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
|
Quote:
This is probably a dumb question, but I dont have access to a spray gun or air compressor, can I buy automotive paint and add reducer and apply it with a brush? Would it self level like the rustoleum? Im not looking to paint a car, but a motorcycle tank.
Thanks,
Why not see if you can get the color you want in .
a rattle can set up or one of those power packs, if the color is a Rustoleum color use thier spray cans.
|
|
|
Re: err
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38532
11/13/08 09:03 PM
11/13/08 09:03 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Don't know if this is what Dart69GT meant by "power packs", but it's possible to get automotive paint packaged in an aerosol can. I've read that professional paint supply houses will do this.
I've also seen places on the web that advertise this. You can supply a factory color code and they will supply an aerosol that matches.
I even recall seeing a special aerosol setup that had a device where you popped a seal on the can right before spraying, to release the hardener into the paint (if that's the type of paint "system" you're after).
|
|
|
Re: err
[Re: ridin98ci]
#38533
11/13/08 11:13 PM
11/13/08 11:13 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
If u want an auto finish that's easy use dupli-color its very easy...tons of colors...if you want to roll it on you are kinda limited to color choices ..I still haven't been able to get much of a shine on mine!!!
I've been experimenting with a couple different things and have used a couple of the Duplicolor cans but the silver colors just have too much sparkle in them. Looks odd. Over the past couple of days, Ive experimented with black Rustoleum enamel with a brush and have gotten a really nice finish. (I'll be finishing my headlight bucket with black) But they dont make Rustoleum in silver.
Napa carries a pint of auto paint for $16. Reducer is $27. I was curious if I can just mix this and brush it on since I dont have the painting equipment. Didnt they used to brush enamel on in the old, old days?
|
|
|
|
|
