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Re: HVLP turbine??? [Re: Marq] #38474
10/08/08 11:54 PM
10/08/08 11:54 PM

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Hey guys i'm new here i've spent the past week or so reading my way through from the first post and i have just started painting my camaro rustoleum gloss black..

i have a few questions though

on my first coat on the hood i sanded with 100/220/400 and it felt completely smooth to the touch. the first coat went on alittle thick and i could clearly see some sanding marks that must've stayed through from the 100g sanding. to continue should i just wetsand with 400 until its smooth again or must i completely sand it off and start over?

also this weekend im looking at buying a polisher. i'm a college student currently on a break and i dont have much money. i've read great things about the PC 7424, but i've also been looking at a chicago electric rotary from harbor freight. the rotary is only 50 bucks

would someone with no polishing experience but an exceptionally high learning curve be able to use the rotary to polish or will it be worth it in the end to just buy the porter cable?



thanks

Re: HVLP turbine??? #38475
10/09/08 10:50 AM
10/09/08 10:50 AM
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The 100 grit sand paper is a little too scratchy to serve as your initial surface for painting on. I would be tempted to sand your initial coat of paint with the 400 grit to knock back the high points that the initial paint coat did not level off.

As for the Porter Cable, I would suggest spending the extra bucks to get one. It will last years longer and make each time you use it a pleasure ( and less work ). So you may get bitten a little harder on your initial cash outlay... but in the long run you will have a piece of hardware that you will be happily using years from now...

One of the secrets I shared with folks is how I got a Porter Cable cheap... I found we had a local factory warranty outlet in our city. I popped over there and they had the PC's all bundled up and going for 89 bucks.... They had refurbished units and new units all bunched together.

The new units were simply new units that had been returned from stores because people had stolen things out of the retail box. So they send them back to the refurb shop who are not allowed to sell them as 'new'... so they get unloaded through the refurb shop at the reduced price. Plus they also come with a full warranty or a slightly reduced full replacement warranty.

You might be able to find a used unit in your local Pennysaver type news paper... or in the want ads of your local paper. Possibly you might be able to catch a price reduced unit on eBay.

Since these things are built like tanks, I would have no qualms about buying a used one.

.

Re: HVLP turbine??? #38476
10/09/08 11:12 AM
10/09/08 11:12 AM
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Quote:

also this weekend im looking at buying a polisher. i'm a college student currently on a break and i dont have much money. i've read great things about the PC 7424, but i've also been looking at a chicago electric rotary from harbor freight. the rotary is only 50 bucks

would someone with no polishing experience but an exceptionally high learning curve be able to use the rotary to polish or will it be worth it in the end to just buy the porter cable?
thanks




I don't think the Harbor Freight one is random orbital like the Porter Cable. If you are not experienced, you are more likely to screw something up if you don't have the random orbital feature.

BTW - maybe you could rent one from your local hardware / tool rental store. You really only need it for a day, to buff out everything when you are done. Probably only cost you $20.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 69DartGT] #38477
10/09/08 03:57 PM
10/09/08 03:57 PM
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Ok I wish I had pics to show you but my computer wont allow me to upload them from my camera....so I will try to describe what I have done....I wet sanded the hell outta my car.....sprayed two coats of grey primer over entire car....wet sanded again with 400....rolled two coats..wet sanded with 400....rolled two coats....wet sanded with 600....rolled two more coats....wet sanded with 600....rolled two more coats, first I used the turtle wax rubbing compound....with a cheap random orb polisher from wally world, then I have been using the turtle wax polish like a mad man and the damn car is still dull....I mean like primer.....what am I doing wrong? I am so mad I could . I only waited about 24 hours before I started polishing should I have waited longer?

James


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38478
10/09/08 05:41 PM
10/09/08 05:41 PM

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Quote:

Ok I wish I had pics to show you but my computer wont allow me to upload them from my camera....so I will try to describe what I have done....I wet sanded the hell outta my car.....sprayed two coats of grey primer over entire car....wet sanded again with 400....rolled two coats..wet sanded with 400....rolled two coats....wet sanded with 600....rolled two more coats....wet sanded with 600....rolled two more coats, first I used the turtle wax rubbing compound....with a cheap random orb polisher from wally world, then I have been using the turtle wax polish like a mad man and the damn car is still dull....I mean like primer.....what am I doing wrong? I am so mad I could . I only waited about 24 hours before I started polishing should I have waited longer?

James





did you wetsand with at least 1000 on your final coat, from what i've read you should westand with at least 1000 on your final coat before polishing

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38479
10/09/08 05:50 PM
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You are saying wet sand after my coat is dry then polish??


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38480
10/09/08 06:43 PM
10/09/08 06:43 PM

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well from what i've read is on your final coat to wetsand with 1000 and if you want 2000 and then polish to get a glass shine, but going from 600 to polish is too much i think


Quote:

You are saying wet sand after my coat is dry then polish??



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38481
10/09/08 08:25 PM
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I went from 600 to paint then rubbing compound to polish.....my paint looks smooth just NO shine its flat....It had an ok shine before I started cutting it....it was just a touch blotchy looking.



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Re: HVLP turbine??? [Re: Marq] #38482
10/09/08 08:52 PM
10/09/08 08:52 PM
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Des Moines IA
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Quote:

Quote:


Thanks for the reply. I was actually refering to the bottom of the floors not the bottom of the side panels. This will be painted separately probably in a different color.

Is this Rhinoskin something you roll on or spray on? I think Rustoleum paint would serve the same purpose and may be cheaper so I'm leaning that direction.




Oh... ok... well the bottom of the floors needs some clarification then...

Do you mean bottom of the floors... ie the part of the floor pans that you feet touch and that face inward in to the cockpit of the vehicle... or

Do you mea bottom of the floors... ie the part of the floor pans that face down towards the ground ( ie underneath the vehicle ).

If it is the interior floor pan... you could slap on the paint normally ( not thinned ) and just do two coats... You could also use that truck box liner paint on the interior floor. It would probably hold up better over the long run because carpets can get wet and it would be nice to have a surface coating that repeals water because of its platicky properties.

IF you were talking about underneath the car.. you could spray on Rustoleum paint straight out of the can.. and nail it in one or two coats. It would probably provide excellent anti-rust protection.. but eventually the road rocks would chip away openings to the metal surface below. You would have to plan on repainting the undercarrage every couple of years to ensure that your surface remains sealed. I would not use the Rhinoskin type stuff on the undercarriage... just because of the cost...

.




The interior floor pan would be the top of the floors. The bottom of the floors would be the bottom of the floors,aka the bottom side of the sheetmetal underneath the floors of the vehicle.


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38483
10/09/08 10:34 PM
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where the hell would I get 2000 grit paper...I have some 1000.....and do you really think that will work? I am just about ready to F it and spray the damn thing.


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38484
10/09/08 11:54 PM
10/09/08 11:54 PM
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Omaha, Nebraska
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Quote:

where the hell would I get 2000 grit paper...I have some 1000.....and do you really think that will work? I am just about ready to F it and spray the damn thing.




Wood workers and blade smiths use 2000 grit. Not sure if it comes in wet or dry. I would assume so, but that is how the custom knife makers get a mirror finish on stainless as well as non-stainless steels

Last edited by Scott Carl; 10/09/08 11:56 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38485
10/10/08 12:34 AM
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Quote:

where the hell would I get 2000 grit paper...I have some 1000.....and do you really think that will work? I am just about ready to F it and spray the damn thing.




I think i picked mine up at autozone....bout 1000, 1500, and 2000. but what i think the real problem is that the polisher you are using is not powerful enough. i had the same problem. so I jsut thinned the last coat very thin and left it like that with no sanding or polishing....until I get(can afford) a good polisher!!

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Donny O.] #38486
10/10/08 08:51 AM
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Damn....another freakin' coat....I am really thinkin' I should of just sprayed it.


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Donny O.] #38487
10/10/08 09:31 AM
10/10/08 09:31 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

where the hell would I get 2000 grit paper...I have some 1000.....and do you really think that will work? I am just about ready to F it and spray the damn thing.




I think i picked mine up at autozone....bout 1000, 1500, and 2000. but what i think the real problem is that the polisher you are using is not powerful enough. i had the same problem. so I jsut thinned the last coat very thin and left it like that with no sanding or polishing....until I get(can afford) a good polisher!!




I'm thinking its both: final sand and crappy buffer. 600 grit for the final sand is not even close. You gotta get to at least the 1000 grit wet sand stage before you try and polish.

And NO - 24 hours is not long enough to wait before you polish.

And - most people do not get good results with the cheapo $30 buffer. There have been a few exceptions, but not very many.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Gusteve] #38488
10/10/08 11:24 AM
10/10/08 11:24 AM
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The following article at Automedia on color sanding ( aka wet sanding ) might help give some additional info on the topic :

http://www.automedia.com/Color-Sanding_and_Buffing/res20030601cs/1


.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38489
10/11/08 04:51 PM
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I have given up...I have been sanding and polishing this damn thing for two days......here comes the spray gun. Should I use spirits or acetone to thin it?


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38490
10/13/08 08:28 AM
10/13/08 08:28 AM
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Quote:

I have given up...I have been sanding and polishing this damn thing for two days......here comes the spray gun. Should I use spirits or acetone to thin it?




Don't use acetone unless you have an oxygen respirator pack on. The fumes will kill your brain and your kidneys. It also makes one heck of an explosive mixture when atomized in the air and finds a spark ( yes something as simple as the spark of the rotator brushes in the electric motor of cheap electric spray guns.

There was some discussion earlier in the thread about the right mixture or flow rate to cut your paint with mineral spirits to get a good vaporization of the paint when spraying.

.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38491
10/13/08 10:30 PM
10/13/08 10:30 PM

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Just an FYI, as you seem to have given up the rollering. I waited 30 days before final sanding.
My final sand was 2000 wet - any good auto parts or auto paint store will have that. I am lucky I guess as a friend has a Festool Rotax polisher - $800 here in Australia. Cut it twice with that and then polished.
I am using Brightside BTW gloss black.
Best way I could describe the finish is black chrome. Awesome. Incredibly smooth. My only issue is I have some marks in one of the layers of the paint - trying to figure that problem out now.
Cheers,
Frank.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38492
10/14/08 08:52 PM
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well here in Illinois we only have MAYBE a month of good weather left and I would like to drive it with out it looking like some flaming POS.....its been down for three weeks already...kinda bummed.
I do think I will roll my truck but its a pos anyway.


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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ridin98ci] #38493
10/14/08 11:36 PM
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Well you could drive around in the final coat. It wont be great, but not terrible either. Mine has a decent shine, not much peel and very little dust inclusions.
Drive it for 30 days, then do the final 2000 wet sand and polish.
Just a thought.

Cheers,
Frank.

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