Was thinking about trying to build my own headers for my Car..Fitting and welding is not my problem..if i understand the concept correctly, all the tube need to be the same length(within reason) Right ?? So routing them to make sure they are all within 1-2" of the same length is that correct ????

I had a hard time getting all the tubes within a 1" or 2", when I made the 2 1/4 headers for the Dart this year. One of my concerns was getting to all the plugs from the top of the car. Have everything mocked up, such as the oil pan, starter, external lines , everything. Buy lots of different bends. It's a lot of work, but needed in alot of cases.

So who's a good source to buy the parts needed?

Megajolt

I got my bends from Performance Products in Courtenay.

You can shop around, but he's usually got the best prices.

If you need anything else pm me.

Ask for Bill.


Todd

Thanks guys

if I were doing it, I'd use stainless (409 and then coat, or 304) and TIG weld them.

First, I found a piece of flex hose from a swimming pool filter, cut it to the runner length I wanted to use in visualizing the placement of each tube. It is a great way to see roughly where the tube needs to go to get the right length.
My design is unconventional by what you see out there, but has a couple of advantages. First, going over the chassis tube allowed a very straight exit form the heads in the first ten inches. This really helps to build power from what I have heard. It also cut down on the total number of bends in the whole header system. The problem is getting enough collecter length, and its' placement.

First, going over the chassis tube allowed a very straight exit form the heads in the first ten inches. This really helps to build power from what I have heard.



The straight length does help the power but in my case
I didnt need to go over the chassis. You try to get
1 cylinder volume before it hits the first bend (try....
thats from the valve to the bend)) but thats not
always the case, heres the last set I built for
my W-9(405ci)

MR PEABODY, If I had the $$, I would hire you! Great looking headers!

Yea, Me Too...

I have built a couple of sets out of black iron. They are not show quality, far from it, but they work and can be done with basic skills. I have usually chosen a chevy weld kit for a starting point, and bought a couple of extra U's. Chevy kit because it's cheaper, and because the regular flanges don't fit our heads anyway, and becuase I want thicker flanges. Lately I have used 1/2", when milled after completed they don't require a gasket at all. The chevy flanges area easy to sell too for a couple of $$$.

I have a "blind gasket out of sheet metal that I use between the flange and the heads, so that nothing can get in to the exhaust ports. Then I do just like GregsDart, I choose a location for the collector and tack weld it there with a couple of rods. Then I cut proper length pieces of a paper hose, used for example in pre heated air for air filters, and attach them with hose clamps to short stubs tackwelded to the flanges.

After I have figured out the routing to the collectors, I just start duplicating them from the pipes and bends I have. Starting from the one that seem the hardest to do, I tackweld the first ppiece to the flange, and then tackweld more in to it until I reach the collector location. At that point the collector is removed and some extra length left to the primary. Then the next one etc. until all the primaries reach the collector.

At that point I remove the primaries from the flanges and fully well all the seams. Usually 1-3 seams per primary is all that's needed. Once welded, I tack weld them to the flanges, then remove the set and fully weld the flanges using a simple jig out of thick wall U bar to avoid excessive bending of the flange. Last just cut the primaries to the proper length and attach the collector. I do all the welding with MIG, and have not experienced cracking problems or any other problems either.

You should do the build up with the suspension in bottom, check also with different steering positions that you don't run out of room at any point. And fo course everything that is in the car when it's run, like the opil pans, starters, brakecylinders etc. also have to be in the car. You must also keep in mind all the time, that you should be able to remove and install the headers without a fly cutter. Fenderwell style headers have usually taken me one to two days, underchassis style in stock chassis more. Hope this made some sence.

C-body turbo:


Early A-body RB:


LAte A-body RB:

Chassis Works sells nice kits cheap complete with flanges, Will also do step kits for small additional charge. I belive pricing is around 280.00 for complete kit . Its what I use most of the time for common apps. Nice flanges to 3/8 thick cnc . Buy the time I buy pieces from Sthal it's much more. Comes with 14 J bends i believe normally some left over.

PS Do Hemi A Bodys all the time for Greg @ SS/AFX So I do have some experience .Just do one tube at a time. But make sure they are easy to work around if you are go the trouble of making your own! Spark Plugs ,Oil filter, Starter, ect. Take your time, and look at other cars for ideas, Good luck hope it goes well! Refer to post.Trying to find photos of Steve Gillman/Evil B1dart

it's not hard to make a tidy set of headers at home with limited tools. a hacksaw, a vice, a grinder & some masking tape & it's like making a jigsaw. i was doing 1 pipe a night & when finished i got a mate to tig my creation together.