|
Re: my mopar
[Re: Exit1965]
#38334
06/23/08 09:09 PM
06/23/08 09:09 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
|
|
|
Re: ....
#38335
06/26/08 09:16 PM
06/26/08 09:16 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
It will be interesting to see how long these low buck paint jobs last after a couple years of exposure to the sun and weather. This is what separates the cheap paint from the more expensive automotive paint.
 
We have proof that these "low buck" paint jobs are still shiny after 2 years from members on the board, but we all know that their cheap paint will chalk up and fall off any day now.
And, if it doesn't fade and fall off, its only because the owners practice an ancient form of sorcery called *gasp* polishing and waxing! Some of these liars even say they enjoy practicing this waxing witchcraft! They are truly mad.
I won't even get into the hassle of finding a reputable shop that will do an honest job prepping and spraying a 5' paint job for under $6,ooo.
...Or the months it will take for them to finish,
...or the hassle of inspecting to make sure they did what they said they would,
...or the HORROR after three or four months when that spray job cures and all of the sanding marks from the poor bodywork magically become visible, and there is nothing you can do because it is UNDER the clear.
BTDT. Hey, what did you expect for $4000, Ya know, real paint jobs can run twice that... and life goes on.
Some of us have opted out of that roller coaster of happiness.
...And have found peace and contentment is as easy to attain as a 4" foam roller - longevity of the finish be darned.
Roll today, for tomorrow is not guaranteed...
Last edited by 69DartGT; 06/26/08 10:47 PM.
|
|
|
Re: ....
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#38337
06/27/08 02:49 AM
06/27/08 02:49 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
Donny O.
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
|
Quote:
I painted a test piece in my garage with some brightside. I noticed I got a lot of dust particles in the finish. The feel and gloss of the paint is very impressive, and from 3-4 feet away it looks mint. But when you put your nose up to it and feel it, it's dust speck city.
If I wetsand will these specs go away? Or will I just end up going through the paint before these specs are gone? Then what happens when I put the next coat on? More dust? Any suggestions?
unless you do it in a clean room you are going to get dust. there are things you can do to reduce the amount...clean the garage good, wet the floor, etc..but some will still be there. it wet sands out very easy. i would bet it would even polish out of the final coat without sanding!!
|
|
|
Re: ....
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#38338
06/28/08 12:37 AM
06/28/08 12:37 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
_Scott_
member
|
member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
|
Quote:
If I wetsand will these specs go away?
Yes, that's part of the reason you are sanding between coats. Knock down the dust specks, the orange peel, stray bugs, etc... before you proceed to the next coat. Attempts to bury them will likely just make them bigger.
In addition to the excellent advice of DonnyO, make sure _you_ are clean too. If you've been doing prep work prior to painting, dust can fall out of your hair or off your clothes and end up in the paint.
Clean the work area, clean yourself, clean the surface you are going to paint. And, while tack rags will make your hand sticky, they do a good job of picking up dust, so use them.
|
|
|
Re: ....
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#38339
06/28/08 12:54 PM
06/28/08 12:54 PM
|
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
|
Quote:
I painted a test piece in my garage with some brightside. I noticed I got a lot of dust particles in the finish. The feel and gloss of the paint is very impressive, and from 3-4 feet away it looks mint. But when you put your nose up to it and feel it, it's dust speck city.
If I wetsand will these specs go away? Or will I just end up going through the paint before these specs are gone? Then what happens when I put the next coat on? More dust? Any suggestions?
I have to agree with what the other lads have already said. Dust specs are nothing compared to whacked out mosquitoes, micro-flies, dumb spiders and even your own falling hair landing on wet paint. Dust is almost a pleasure to deal with... as it does polish out.
But lets be honest here. If you took your car to a pro paint shop ( and I am including MAACO and the other paint shop chains ).... the truth is that they paint your car in a clean room... but they don't leave it in there. As soon as they can they wheel it out and move the next car in to the clean room for painting. At that point their paint also becomes vulneralbe to dust and flying things UNTIL the paint flashes and seals itself sufficiently to keep 'things that land on it' from sticking.
Sadly... a lot of these freshly painted 'pro paint jobs' get parked outside after painting. In some cases the car is pushed off to some spot in the shop where they have tried to reduce the amount of 'things in the air' from landing on the car.
The point being to not hold a pro paint job up as perfection until you go to a pro shop and closely examine the fresh paint job with the same critical eye that you would to your own 'roll your own' paint job. The reality is that it is really easy to spot similar or equal 'flaws' on a pro-painted car. It is only when YOU pay a higher premium for your pro-paint job that the shop takes extra steps to ensure every square of the paint job is FLAWLESS.
But bouncing further deeper into the reality of paint jobs... GO TO YOUR LOCAL car dealership's showroom and put that critical eye to work on the showroom creampuffs. You will see orange peel, you will see runs, you will see specs in the paint, you will see shade or depth differences between the panels. I have even seen Mustangs in the showroom where the hardtop had a different shade of metalic red compared to the body.
When parking in shopping lots I am always looking at the level of shine on the vehicle parked next to me. I am always surprised how new cars DON'T have a mirror shine. Normally their paint jobs have a hint of an orange peel that reduces the mirror effect of reflection that a perfectly smooth surface would have.
AND IF YOU SHOULD ever spot a showroom new car or a freshly painted pro-paint job car that has a mirror smooth and flawles paint job... well I am willing to bet dollars to donuts that car has had its paint job PROFESSIONALLY DETAILED by a detailer who knew how to polish and wax that surface into the flawless jewel you are seeing.
And when you get down to the nuts and bolts of this 'roll your own' paint job... one of the aspects of the work involved is the final compounding, polishing and waxing. So in a way, our roll your own paint jobs are simply taking it to the next step that is not normally executed on the factory paint job.
To be honest... when I first finished my paint job it was quite visually acceptable. BUT in my heart I just knew that if a professional detailer had my car for a day he could probably increase the shine by 100% - simply because they know how to do just that - its their stock and trade.
The whole 'roll your own' paint job requires three phases to be completed well, in order to assure a finished job that you will be proud of :
a ) attention to detail during the PREP stage,
b ) taking your time and having patience during the 'rolling your paint' stage... and finally...
c ) attention to detail during the final compounding, polishing and waxing stage.
.
|
|
|
Re: ....
[Re: Marq]
#38340
06/29/08 11:23 PM
06/29/08 11:23 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Thanks for the reply Marq. I think I'll be rolling primer over the whole body just to be safe.
Has anyone used rustoleum burgandy? I'd like to match the original color as close as possible and I think the burgandy color will be close but I'd like to be sure. If somebody could post a pic of rustoleum's burgandy color I'd appreciate it. Actually, if you have pics of any shade of red I'd like to see how it turned out. Please include the name of the color you used with the pic. Thanks!
|
|
|
Integra paint problem
[Re: Marq]
#38341
07/01/08 10:04 AM
07/01/08 10:04 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Hi Marq,
I need help again. I did about 6 coats, but the paint never hardened. I think the problem was that I live in Vancouver where it is very humid during the winter months. I did my paint during the winter.
So my plan is to strip off the old paint and start over again. This time I'll use a dehumidifier between coats to ensure that each coat has hardened before I paint over it.
My question is: what's the best way to strip off the old paint? The last 4 coats of the old paint didn't cure properly ... and it clutts up the sandpaper ... even when I wet sand at 400 grit.
Please help.
John
|
|
|
Re: Integra paint problem
#38342
07/01/08 06:59 PM
07/01/08 06:59 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
Hi Marq,
I need help again. I did about 6 coats, but the paint never hardened. I think the problem was that I live in Vancouver where it is very humid during the winter months. I did my paint during the winter.
So my plan is to strip off the old paint and start over again. This time I'll use a dehumidifier between coats to ensure that each coat has hardened before I paint over it.
My question is: what's the best way to strip off the old paint? The last 4 coats of the old paint didn't cure properly ... and it clutts up the sandpaper ... even when I wet sand at 400 grit.
Please help.
John
out of curiosity, how long did you let each coat dry?
|
|
|
Re: Integra paint problem
#38343
07/01/08 11:44 PM
07/01/08 11:44 PM
|
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
|
mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
|
Quote:
Hi Marq,
I need help again. I did about 6 coats, but the paint never hardened. I think the problem was that I live in Vancouver where it is very humid during the winter months. I did my paint during the winter.
So my plan is to strip off the old paint and start over again. This time I'll use a dehumidifier between coats to ensure that each coat has hardened before I paint over it.
My question is: what's the best way to strip off the old paint? The last 4 coats of the old paint didn't cure properly ... and it clutts up the sandpaper ... even when I wet sand at 400 grit.
Please help.
John
Hmmmm.... ok... so your paint is still tacky and that is clogging up the sand paper... So if I was faced with that situation I would just stop work and leave the painting alone for two weeks. If you could park it in a nice hot garage, even better. But even being left out on the street or in the driveway where it can get whacked by the sun would help greatly to get the paint to fully evaporate the carrier and harden it up.
I don't think I would try any forced or chemical strippings of the paint at this point. IF you can get it to fully harden or cure by just leaving it alone, that would be better in the long run. IF it should reach a point of hardening where you can finally use sandpaper on it, then you will be almost certainly assured that it is going to be a well adhering base coat when you do get around to sanding it.
I understand what you mean about the humidity of Vancouver being a factor. Humidity does slow down the curing process. In a warm dry climate you can usually apply 'the next coat' within 12 to 24 hours. With cooler or humid conditions, the curing time between coats could go up to 48 hours between 'the next coat'.
IF the coats of paint you apply roll on fairly thin, with the mineral spirit being able to evaporate fairly freely ( due to the warm environment ) times will be speeded up between coats.
IF the coats of paint you apply rolled on slightly thicker.. it will take a little more time between coats of paint ( because the thicker rolling will end up forming an outer skin that will attempt to trap the evaporating mineral spirit beneath the skin. In that case you just have to walk away and give it anywhere from 36 to 48 hours to cure.
NOW... one thing you might want to experiment with is using acetone instead of mineral spirit. The acetone works like the mineral spirit to thin out the paint BUT it has a faster evaporation rate. The fast 'flashing' of acetone would not be good for someone in a warm ( hot ) environment, but in a cooler and more humid environment, the faster flashing of the acetone would actually be like the normal flashing of the mineral spirit in a hot climate.
Overall, I don't think that the paint remaining tacky will be helped by slapping even a dozen dehumidifiers in the garage. At this point heat or time are the key factors that will evaporate the carrier (mineral spirit).
IF the paint was 'ridiculously tacky'... I might try the suicide move that I faced when my trunk initially screwed up. For some reason the trunk had chosen to rebel and went elephantine. And like your situation the paint was tacky. I had resigned myself to just walking away from the project and letting it dry itself hard ( and then I was going sand it back a few coats and redo it ). But in a suicidal move I took one of my clean cloths - thorougly SOAKED it with mineral spirits - and I began wiping down the surface. My oddball theory was that if the paint was not curing... then possibly by overdosing it with straight mineral spirit and rubbing with the cloth with strip the damp layer of paint off a few layers until it reached a fully cured layer ( which would not be as affected by the soaking wet wiping cloth ). In my case it did exactly that. The bad coats of paint began rubbing off. In the end the truck lid lost all the bad coats of damp paint and passed them on to the cleaning rag. I was able to wipe the trunk lid down to one even sublayer of cured paint. I then walked away from the project for three days to let the trunk lid fully recure and evaporate all the mineral spirits that I had hit it with. When I came back to it... it was dry and hard - and so I hit it with a 400 grit sandpaper, wiped it down with a clean cloth with mineral spirt, walked away from it for the evening ( to let the wiping down evaporate ) and the next moring I applied a new coat of paint to that trunk.
.
|
|
|
Re: Help
[Re: QuickDodge]
#38346
07/02/08 03:27 PM
07/02/08 03:27 PM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
I figured out what color I need to match my truck. The burgandy color is a near perfect match.
I tried emailing rustoleum but they never responded so hopefully you guys can answer this. Can I use rustoleum SPRAY primer under rustoleum roll on paint? Or will the two react with each other? Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
Re: Help
#38347
07/02/08 07:13 PM
07/02/08 07:13 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
Donny O.
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
|
Quote:
I figured out what color I need to match my truck. The burgandy color is a near perfect match.
I tried emailing rustoleum but they never responded so hopefully you guys can answer this. Can I use rustoleum SPRAY primer under rustoleum roll on paint? Or will the two react with each other? Thanks in advance.
I used the burgandy on my sidecar at first and it's ok but didn't match good enough for me so i switched colors. you can see pictures of it here....before, during, after and on to my next color even. I need to update with new pics as i'm up to about 6 or 7 coats not and ready for polishing!!
http://rides.webshots.com/album/559630508GUGsFC
|
|
|
Re: Help
[Re: QuickDodge]
#38348
07/03/08 10:11 AM
07/03/08 10:11 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 28
Molino, Fl.
ace250xr84
member
|
member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 28
Molino, Fl.
|
you are probably right about hiding imperfections same reason drywall usually has texture. I tried to take some pics of car but I did not force flash and it was inside garage and you can't see any detail at all. Perhaps I was a little hasty in my sanding. I was was just really let down when I thought i had something that I did not (ultra smooth primer) I am still a little unsure the best way to sand primer in prep for first coat paint? literally. I'll a pic any way maybe it will show enough detail. Pic of trunk after some sanding.
Last edited by ace250xr84; 07/03/08 10:12 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Help
[Re: ace250xr84]
#38349
07/04/08 12:07 AM
07/04/08 12:07 AM
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Anonymous
Unregistered
|
Quote:
...I am still a little unsure the best way to sand primer in prep for first coat paint? literally.
This was mentioned earlier in the 10000 pages but bears repeating.
An old body shop trick is to use two contrasting colors, like a very thin coat of black over the gray primer, as a guide coat for sanding.
As you sand, the black paint remains in the valleys of the scratches and thus are easy to see to sand smooth due to the high contrast in color.
I'm not an old bodyman, so feel free to correct me If I got any of that wrong.
|
|
|
Re: Help
#38350
07/08/08 11:54 AM
07/08/08 11:54 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 28
Molino, Fl.
ace250xr84
member
|
member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 28
Molino, Fl.
|
Mike I believe your are correct on the guide coat and they even make " special guide coat paint " I do not think I will go that far. Over the long weekend I wet sanded whole car 320 and 400 mainly using 3M sanding blocks. I do not think that was the right choice. The car looks kinda like a tiger or " LIGER " new primer, original primer, original paint. Total opposet of what primer was suppose to accomplish " uniform color and smooth " I will post Pic later. I think I should have done by hand (No rigid or semi rigid block )? I did try a couple of section hand only and I still burned through here and their and took forever to get peel/texture out. Now I wonder if all that mix match surface will show up? I think I might have to forgo any more primer and go straight to paint. I do believe I will spray I can't sand any more I just don't know what I'm doing. So now I have to buy a gun, more tape, and learn how to spray I feel Like an GOOBBER  , But I have to do something in the shortest amount of time. Any help would be appreciated. I going to go mess. board diving I know spraying rusto has been talked about and there are somethings I just do not remeber. Like thinners, recoat times and how many, how not to get orange peel.
|
|
|
|
|
