Re: RE: On e question though....
#38256
05/12/08 08:51 PM
05/12/08 08:51 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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Quote:
One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats.
John
That is a good question. I am bad. I used a fresh foam roller EACH TIME I did a coating. I didn't want any dried paint skin on my roller or any variations in the foams firmness where some spots were drying.
The cost of these high density foam rollers is such that you can afford to splurge on the foamies.
Some of the guys have gotten away with multiple re-use of their rollers. Tricks like thorougly cleaning them off with mineral spirit and then placing them in a sealed jar or wrapped up in a plastic baggie to deprive them of air have been used by some folks.
The one thing about even the high density foam rollers is that 'at some point' even the high density foam will start degrading and disintegrating. You will know when that time has arrived because your roller will start leaving bit of foam on your rolled paint.
As I said... for me.. it was worth it to always start a new coating with a fresh brush.
The funniest thing was... imagine these white tampon shaped foam rollers being tossed in to my garbage can at the end of each painting session. And I was painting RED. I can't imagine what the garbage man thought when he dumped the garbage can into the back of the garbage truck and he saw what looked like a slew of bloodied tampons...
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Re: RE: On e question though....
[Re: Marq]
#38257
05/13/08 11:58 AM
05/13/08 11:58 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats.
John
That is a good question. I am bad. I used a fresh foam roller EACH TIME I did a coating. I didn't want any dried paint skin on my roller or any variations in the foams firmness where some spots were drying.
The cost of these high density foam rollers is such that you can afford to splurge on the foamies.
Some of the guys have gotten away with multiple re-use of their rollers. Tricks like thorougly cleaning them off with mineral spirit and then placing them in a sealed jar or wrapped up in a plastic baggie to deprive them of air have been used by some folks.
The one thing about even the high density foam rollers is that 'at some point' even the high density foam will start degrading and disintegrating. You will know when that time has arrived because your roller will start leaving bit of foam on your rolled paint.
As I said... for me.. it was worth it to always start a new coating with a fresh brush.
The funniest thing was... imagine these white tampon shaped foam rollers being tossed in to my garbage can at the end of each painting session. And I was painting RED. I can't imagine what the garbage man thought when he dumped the garbage can into the back of the garbage truck and he saw what looked like a slew of bloodied tampons...
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LOL thats probably one of the few things that'll gross out the trash man.
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Re: RE: On e question though....
[Re: Marq]
#38258
05/13/08 12:51 PM
05/13/08 12:51 PM
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Anonymous
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Re: RE: On e question though....
#38260
05/14/08 01:24 AM
05/14/08 01:24 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44 USA
_Scott_
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Quote:
I would have to paint over glass to accomplish that!
You may be surprised how well paint will stick to glass. No need to sand it, just clean it really well and wipe it with mineral spirits like you would the rest of the panels.
I really like Marq's idea. Here is my attempt at it, with an extra corner rounded.
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Re: RE: On e question though....
[Re: _Scott_]
#38261
05/15/08 10:55 AM
05/15/08 10:55 AM
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Anonymous
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Marq,
Do you think one quart of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer would be enough to lay down 2 coats without trying to get every drop of paint from the container?
I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx, not a very big car.
Thanks
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Re: RE: On e question though....
[Re: Marq]
#38263
05/15/08 05:11 PM
05/15/08 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Marq,
Do you think one quart of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer would be enough to lay down 2 coats without trying to get every drop of paint from the container?
I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx, not a very big car.
Thanks
One quart should be enough ( without scraping the last drips out of it ). The primer has a high amount of pigment and primer 'solids' in it - so the first coat should give the 100% color coverage... leaving plenty of primer still in the can to complete the 2nd coat to give a build up of the solids.
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Thanks for the quick response. It will take some time until I get around to starting this, but I'll be sure to come back with pictures!
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Re: RE: On e question though....
[Re: _Scott_]
#38264
05/15/08 06:59 PM
05/15/08 06:59 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Thanks for the suggestion! I personally like the 'S' or 'Z' line of the top between the rear sliding windows and the farthest window on the side of the truck (the on that wraps to the top!)
Here is a picture of the truck after the first coat of Primer on the back. Per Marq's suggestion previously, I mixed about 20% of the Yellow with the Rustoleum White Primer. I plan on one more coat and then paint. This top is not going to have a mirror sine due to the texture of the fiberglass. To me, it looks tan. In certain light, it looks yellow. Very strange!
Hope you guys don't mind the progress pictures! If so, I will hold off until the finished product!
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Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38266
05/20/08 02:18 AM
05/20/08 02:18 AM
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Anonymous
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Question about satin. I want to do this on my probe but I have to do a little body work first. Ive read that the satin rustoleum rolls on just as well as it sprays from rattle cans. I was wondering if I should just spray bomb it. If I'm going to roll it i think i would have to take the entire car apart (bumpers, mirrors, fenders, etc) the only reason is because i would want to get all the little cracks and everything painted. so which method would yield the best results?
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Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38268
05/20/08 09:23 PM
05/20/08 09:23 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575 Canada
Marq
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Question about satin. I want to do this on my probe but I have to do a little body work first. Ive read that the satin rustoleum rolls on just as well as it sprays from rattle cans. I was wondering if I should just spray bomb it. If I'm going to roll it i think i would have to take the entire car apart (bumpers, mirrors, fenders, etc) the only reason is because i would want to get all the little cracks and everything painted. so which method would yield the best results?
You will get a better overall effect by rolling on your satin paint.
I gave this speech previously... but it does explain the benefits of rolling on a paint compared to using a spray bomb...
When you are rolling on a paint.... it self levels. This is because you are directly rolling the paint and its carrier ( the mineral spirit ) on to the target part. You lose none of the paint in to the air during the transfer and 100% of what goes on the roller ends up on the target part.
When you are spraying with an aerosol or spray bomb, the paint particles are propelled out of the can and the particles fly through the air until they land on the car. While the paint particles are in flight... they are losing some of their adhesiveness. So some particles of the spray hit the target part with 100% of their adhesion quality intact... whereas other particles have underwent a various percentages of adhesion loss during the flight. SOOOOOOOooo.. when the particles hit the target surface they tend to build on top of each other. These paint molecules do not all land in an orderly fashion as they build up their coat of paint. There will be air gaps created between some particles AND in other instances you will have these 100% adhesion molecules landing on paint molecules that had lesser percentages of adhesion. That makes them very unstable and easily rubbed off.
Ok... so the roller paint goes on the car and it fills in all the air gaps and creates a uniform adhesion between all the paint molecules and the subsurface that is being painted. As the paint dries and the carrier ( mineral spirit evaporates ) the paint molecules fill in all the air gaps with the paint molecules and create a strong bond amongst itself while it self-levels. You cannot take your thumb or brush against the paint with your leg or sleeve and dislodge the paint once it has self leveled and cured.
Whereas the spray bomb job leaves a paint on the surface of the vehicle that on looking at it under a microscope would make you think that it looks kind of fuzzy. That fuzziness when rubbed with your thumb, pant leg or sleeve will rub off.
Satin paint jobs are a big enough pain in the butt to keep looking good and flat. The roll on method gives you that chance to keep that 'flat' look longer because of what I explained earlier.
Hope this helps
Marq
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Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: ace250xr84]
#38271
05/21/08 07:27 PM
05/21/08 07:27 PM
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Anonymous
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FWIW, If you are a member of TheSamba, a VW forum, don't dare post anything in "their" body/paint section on the forum about the roller method. Evidently they don't like it and will not allow it to be discussed. You gotta tow the line or your posts will be deleted, even if the post was started by another member. A member asked how he could paint his ride cheaply. One member said rustoleum spray can, I said the Roller Method and pointed him to this discussion. Of course it was removed. I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out why some people get really upset when you start talking about painting your car with a roller. It's almost as if you were telling them there isn't a God. Sorry for the Rant, keep rollin'! TheSamba
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Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38272
05/22/08 08:54 AM
05/22/08 08:54 AM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49 Maine
Blackstone
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Posts: 49
Maine
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Quote:
FWIW, If you are a member of TheSamba, a VW forum, don't dare post anything in "their" body/paint section on the forum about the roller method. Evidently they don't like it and will not allow it to be discussed. You gotta tow the line or your posts will be deleted, even if the post was started by another member.
A member asked how he could paint his ride cheaply. One member said rustoleum spray can, I said the Roller Method and pointed him to this discussion. Of course it was removed.
I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out why some people get really upset when you start talking about painting your car with a roller. It's almost as if you were telling them there isn't a God.
Sorry for the Rant, keep rollin'!
TheSamba
Wow, Democratic Underground treats Conservatives better than that!
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Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Marq]
#38273
05/22/08 11:06 PM
05/22/08 11:06 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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i used a high build clear over my rusto job i will look in the garage and give you the name. and it turned out fantastic
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