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Re: RE: On e question though.... #38254 05/12/08 08:42 PM 05/12/08 08:42 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Sorry... I didn't know the color was going on the rear cover. I thought it was just a complimentary color for accenting... Ok... how about this variation on your all yellow version. Just use a bit of black strategically to give the illusion of a large tinted rear window... and also the door window trim. Then yellowize your mirror... 4423273-Image1.gif (270 downloads)

New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38255 05/12/08 08:44 PM 05/12/08 08:44 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca. 69DartGT OP moparts member
69DartGT OP moparts member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca.	Quote: One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats. One I used a new one for each coat, figured they were cheap enough why not. Yellow Wanted to do yellow on my truck but the wife talked me out of it because my Dart was already yellow. Last edited by 69DartGT; 05/12/08 08:47 PM.

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38256 05/12/08 08:51 PM 05/12/08 08:51 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats. John That is a good question. I am bad. I used a fresh foam roller EACH TIME I did a coating. I didn't want any dried paint skin on my roller or any variations in the foams firmness where some spots were drying. The cost of these high density foam rollers is such that you can afford to splurge on the foamies. Some of the guys have gotten away with multiple re-use of their rollers. Tricks like thorougly cleaning them off with mineral spirit and then placing them in a sealed jar or wrapped up in a plastic baggie to deprive them of air have been used by some folks. The one thing about even the high density foam rollers is that 'at some point' even the high density foam will start degrading and disintegrating. You will know when that time has arrived because your roller will start leaving bit of foam on your rolled paint. As I said... for me.. it was worth it to always start a new coating with a fresh brush. The funniest thing was... imagine these white tampon shaped foam rollers being tossed in to my garbage can at the end of each painting session. And I was painting RED. I can't imagine what the garbage man thought when he dumped the garbage can into the back of the garbage truck and he saw what looked like a slew of bloodied tampons... .

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38257 05/13/08 11:58 AM 05/13/08 11:58 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats. John That is a good question. I am bad. I used a fresh foam roller EACH TIME I did a coating. I didn't want any dried paint skin on my roller or any variations in the foams firmness where some spots were drying. The cost of these high density foam rollers is such that you can afford to splurge on the foamies. Some of the guys have gotten away with multiple re-use of their rollers. Tricks like thorougly cleaning them off with mineral spirit and then placing them in a sealed jar or wrapped up in a plastic baggie to deprive them of air have been used by some folks. The one thing about even the high density foam rollers is that 'at some point' even the high density foam will start degrading and disintegrating. You will know when that time has arrived because your roller will start leaving bit of foam on your rolled paint. As I said... for me.. it was worth it to always start a new coating with a fresh brush. The funniest thing was... imagine these white tampon shaped foam rollers being tossed in to my garbage can at the end of each painting session. And I was painting RED. I can't imagine what the garbage man thought when he dumped the garbage can into the back of the garbage truck and he saw what looked like a slew of bloodied tampons... . LOL thats probably one of the few things that'll gross out the trash man.

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38258 05/13/08 12:51 PM 05/13/08 12:51 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: The funniest thing was... imagine these white tampon shaped foam rollers being tossed in to my garbage can at the end of each painting session. And I was painting RED. I can't imagine what the garbage man thought when he dumped the garbage can into the back of the garbage truck and he saw what looked like a slew of bloodied tampons... . HAHAHAHA!!! That is great, and I can imagine the trash collector looking at these things going "I wonder who LIT the FUSE on this Tampon!" The thing about the top on these 4 Runners, The area that is the 'blacked out' is a window. They actually partially wrap up the top edge. Here is a stock photo of a 1985 Toyota 4 Runner. So, really, though you idea is good on the black out, I would have to paint over glass to accomplish that! This is a good shot of a '85 Runner showing the windows from a top angle. The area that is white on this particular picture is completely removable on all 1984-1989 Toyota 4 Runners: HAHAHAHAHA Lit fuses on tampons...... John Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/13/08 02:24 PM.

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38259 05/13/08 03:20 PM 05/13/08 03:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca. 69DartGT OP moparts member
69DartGT OP moparts member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca.	Okay guys we've had our chuckle lets get back on subject Oh and quit changing the header Last edited by 69DartGT; 05/13/08 03:21 PM.

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38260 05/14/08 01:24 AM 05/14/08 01:24 AM
Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 44 USA _ _Scott_ member
_Scott_ member _ Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 44 USA	Quote: I would have to paint over glass to accomplish that! You may be surprised how well paint will stick to glass. No need to sand it, just clean it really well and wipe it with mineral spirits like you would the rest of the panels. I really like Marq's idea. Here is my attempt at it, with an extra corner rounded. 4426330-RollerYellow4Runner.jpg (266 downloads)

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: _Scott_] #38261 05/15/08 10:55 AM 05/15/08 10:55 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Marq, Do you think one quart of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer would be enough to lay down 2 coats without trying to get every drop of paint from the container? I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx, not a very big car. Thanks

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38262 05/15/08 11:22 AM 05/15/08 11:22 AM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: Marq, Do you think one quart of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer would be enough to lay down 2 coats without trying to get every drop of paint from the container? I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx, not a very big car. Thanks One quart should be enough ( without scraping the last drips out of it ). The primer has a high amount of pigment and primer 'solids' in it - so the first coat should give the 100% color coverage... leaving plenty of primer still in the can to complete the 2nd coat to give a build up of the solids. . Last edited by Marq; 05/15/08 11:23 AM.

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38263 05/15/08 05:11 PM 05/15/08 05:11 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Quote: Quote: Marq, Do you think one quart of Interlux Pre-Kote Primer would be enough to lay down 2 coats without trying to get every drop of paint from the container? I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx, not a very big car. Thanks One quart should be enough ( without scraping the last drips out of it ). The primer has a high amount of pigment and primer 'solids' in it - so the first coat should give the 100% color coverage... leaving plenty of primer still in the can to complete the 2nd coat to give a build up of the solids. . Thanks for the quick response. It will take some time until I get around to starting this, but I'll be sure to come back with pictures!

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: _Scott_] #38264 05/15/08 06:59 PM 05/15/08 06:59 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Thanks for the suggestion! I personally like the 'S' or 'Z' line of the top between the rear sliding windows and the farthest window on the side of the truck (the on that wraps to the top!) Here is a picture of the truck after the first coat of Primer on the back. Per Marq's suggestion previously, I mixed about 20% of the Yellow with the Rustoleum White Primer. I plan on one more coat and then paint. This top is not going to have a mirror sine due to the texture of the fiberglass. To me, it looks tan. In certain light, it looks yellow. Very strange! Hope you guys don't mind the progress pictures! If so, I will hold off until the finished product! 4429973-TOP_1COAT.jpg (313 downloads)

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38265 05/16/08 03:04 PM 05/16/08 03:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca. 69DartGT OP moparts member
69DartGT OP moparts member Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 12,405 Southern, Ca.	Transtar Roll on primer? Anyone try this, here's a link scroll down until you get to 6464 roll on primer and read the data sheets, its made to go on with a foam roller. http://www.tat-co.com/productCategory.asp?id=1

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 69DartGT] #38266 05/20/08 02:18 AM 05/20/08 02:18 AM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	Question about satin. I want to do this on my probe but I have to do a little body work first. Ive read that the satin rustoleum rolls on just as well as it sprays from rattle cans. I was wondering if I should just spray bomb it. If I'm going to roll it i think i would have to take the entire car apart (bumpers, mirrors, fenders, etc) the only reason is because i would want to get all the little cracks and everything painted. so which method would yield the best results?

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38267 05/20/08 06:17 AM 05/20/08 06:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 6,988 Warren, MI J Jerry master
Jerry master J Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 6,988 Warren, MI	Has anyone found a clear that can be used over the rustoleum paint? i know that it technically doesn't need it, but i would like to try it and see if it brings up the shine a little. just wondering if i can roll this on as well or will the clear need to be sprayed. Superior Design Concepts 2574 Elliott Dr Troy MI 48083 jerry@sdconcepts.com www.sdconcepts.com Facebook page: Superior Design Concepts www.bcrproducts.com

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38268 05/20/08 09:23 PM 05/20/08 09:23 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: Question about satin. I want to do this on my probe but I have to do a little body work first. Ive read that the satin rustoleum rolls on just as well as it sprays from rattle cans. I was wondering if I should just spray bomb it. If I'm going to roll it i think i would have to take the entire car apart (bumpers, mirrors, fenders, etc) the only reason is because i would want to get all the little cracks and everything painted. so which method would yield the best results? You will get a better overall effect by rolling on your satin paint. I gave this speech previously... but it does explain the benefits of rolling on a paint compared to using a spray bomb... When you are rolling on a paint.... it self levels. This is because you are directly rolling the paint and its carrier ( the mineral spirit ) on to the target part. You lose none of the paint in to the air during the transfer and 100% of what goes on the roller ends up on the target part. When you are spraying with an aerosol or spray bomb, the paint particles are propelled out of the can and the particles fly through the air until they land on the car. While the paint particles are in flight... they are losing some of their adhesiveness. So some particles of the spray hit the target part with 100% of their adhesion quality intact... whereas other particles have underwent a various percentages of adhesion loss during the flight. SOOOOOOOooo.. when the particles hit the target surface they tend to build on top of each other. These paint molecules do not all land in an orderly fashion as they build up their coat of paint. There will be air gaps created between some particles AND in other instances you will have these 100% adhesion molecules landing on paint molecules that had lesser percentages of adhesion. That makes them very unstable and easily rubbed off. Ok... so the roller paint goes on the car and it fills in all the air gaps and creates a uniform adhesion between all the paint molecules and the subsurface that is being painted. As the paint dries and the carrier ( mineral spirit evaporates ) the paint molecules fill in all the air gaps with the paint molecules and create a strong bond amongst itself while it self-levels. You cannot take your thumb or brush against the paint with your leg or sleeve and dislodge the paint once it has self leveled and cured. Whereas the spray bomb job leaves a paint on the surface of the vehicle that on looking at it under a microscope would make you think that it looks kind of fuzzy. That fuzziness when rubbed with your thumb, pant leg or sleeve will rub off. Satin paint jobs are a big enough pain in the butt to keep looking good and flat. The roll on method gives you that chance to keep that 'flat' look longer because of what I explained earlier. Hope this helps Marq .

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Jerry] #38269 05/20/08 09:33 PM 05/20/08 09:33 PM
Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada Marq mopar addict
Marq mopar addict Joined: May 2006 Posts: 575 Canada	Quote: Has anyone found a clear that can be used over the rustoleum paint? i know that it technically doesn't need it, but i would like to try it and see if it brings up the shine a little. just wondering if i can roll this on as well or will the clear need to be sprayed. Believe it or not... I find that my car gets shinier and shiner each time I polish it. But I will admit that I have been less then pleased with some car polishes then others. My personal favorite is still the Meguiars Pure Carnuba. It gave me the best shine. But I got even better results using the Turtle War that is specifically designed for red paint jobs. It not only darkened my red paint job while laying on a great shine. Today I was at a 'liquidator' store and they liquidating Black Magic 'synthetic' wax. It had a lovely almond smell and was selling for $1.49 - so I figured that even if it was crap, it wouldn't be a big loss. Well.... let me tell you... the stuff worked great. I will have to go back and grab a few more tubes of the stuff. I had bad luck with a number of the 'detailer' quality sprays that promise to tweak up your paint's shine for show and go. I bought the Lucas brand and for the first time ever I was disappointe in a Lucas product. I had to repolish it after, using the Turtle wax to restore the shine and depth of color. I also had no luck whatsoever with the super-advanced 'Turtle Ice' or the 'NuFinish'. The Turtle Ice held great promise and i really liked the idea that it dried clear ( so you can't see wax dried out in the gaps on the car ). But overall it had the same whacked out effect as the Lucas detailing shine stuff. ( oh... by the way.. I am now only using the Lucas shiney stuff on my TIRES - I won't allow it on the paint job ) I know you started the topic by looking for a quick fix coating that might help to give your paint job a 'clear coat' look. But in my own humble way I am trying to say that each time you polish and wax your paint job you will see the shine and depth of color continuing to improve. Naturally a Porter & Cable helps to make each polishing and waxing session a pleasure. , Last edited by Marq; 05/20/08 09:37 PM.

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Jerry] #38270 05/20/08 11:00 PM 05/20/08 11:00 PM
Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl. ace250xr84 member
ace250xr84 member Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 28 Molino, Fl.	Clear coat on rusto has been talked about way way back, back and forth banter, freind or foe, and some serious time and effort was put in. Tremclad does offer clear in a bucket can, rusto only spray bomb unless things have changed. I do rember one guy with a black paint job( was it a buick regal GN, clone ?) that went all the way. Hopefully someone with a little more brain power will rember this example or know how to search for it in this epic trilogy of a thread. Unfortuatly after a couple of attempts it was deemed a falure. I think his last attempt was mixing up tremclad clear in a spray gun and shot it on the car and it looked great but it peeled off later.

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ace250xr84] #38271 05/21/08 07:27 PM 05/21/08 07:27 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	FWIW, If you are a member of TheSamba, a VW forum, don't dare post anything in "their" body/paint section on the forum about the roller method. Evidently they don't like it and will not allow it to be discussed. You gotta tow the line or your posts will be deleted, even if the post was started by another member. A member asked how he could paint his ride cheaply. One member said rustoleum spray can, I said the Roller Method and pointed him to this discussion. Of course it was removed. I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out why some people get really upset when you start talking about painting your car with a roller. It's almost as if you were telling them there isn't a God. Sorry for the Rant, keep rollin'! TheSamba

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #38272 05/22/08 08:54 AM 05/22/08 08:54 AM
Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine B Blackstone member
Blackstone member B Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 49 Maine	Quote: FWIW, If you are a member of TheSamba, a VW forum, don't dare post anything in "their" body/paint section on the forum about the roller method. Evidently they don't like it and will not allow it to be discussed. You gotta tow the line or your posts will be deleted, even if the post was started by another member. A member asked how he could paint his ride cheaply. One member said rustoleum spray can, I said the Roller Method and pointed him to this discussion. Of course it was removed. I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out why some people get really upset when you start talking about painting your car with a roller. It's almost as if you were telling them there isn't a God. Sorry for the Rant, keep rollin'! TheSamba Wow, Democratic Underground treats Conservatives better than that!

Re: RE: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq] #38273 05/22/08 11:06 PM 05/22/08 11:06 PM
A Anonymous Unregistered
Anonymous Unregistered A	i used a high build clear over my rusto job i will look in the garage and give you the name. and it turned out fantastic

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