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Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38234
05/05/08 11:55 PM
05/05/08 11:55 PM

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Thanks for the quick response Marq. I was hoping to have you chime in! Does orange peel begin to disappear as the paint cures to it's final hardness? It seems like the paint is showing less orange peel as it has longer to dry! Weird....

This thread / topic is absolutely amazing on how far and wide it's reached. Personally, I would like to know the website/user count/statistics before and after around the beginning of the second thread. I am sure website traffic jumped!

I am pleased that instictively you feel the same way I do. I felt that I should wetsand, yet inexperience kept me second guessing. Having the White Primer has one down fall - it's tougher to gauge the 'thinness' of the paint. I will have to cut the enamel a bit more. I kept the paint to the consistancy of milk, in fact it was very runny and seemed really thin (could see a seperation of mineral spirits and paint even after lots of mixing!)

To address your direct statements, there is a considerable amount of 'see through' on the truck. The white primer under it really deceives the eyes (and camera) to make it look like there's so much more Yellow than there is. The areas where the paint flashed after running, shows the runs are twice the yellow then the remaing paint around it. Tonight, I tested a small area on the back quarter panel with some 600 grit and the spray bottle. The difference between the wetsanded and non sanded area (to the touch) didn't feel hardly any different.

So, my thought (and instinct too) is to wetsand the truck down. If I get some white primer coming through, that's fine. Just wetsand now, cure a day or so, then coat 2. Let that sit in the direct sunlight for 8 hours, wetsand again with 600 and let it sit another day. Then, third coat and let that cure for 2 days in the sun. With taking the coats back, I can get that 'the dog pee look!' LOL

With the 'intense' direct sunlight Arizona provides for curing, and taking back paint by wetsanding after every coat, by the 4th or 5th coat I should have a good foundation to bump the wetsand to 1000 or 1500. Then, I will do a rub w/ mineral spirits to see what kind of finish I have. If I am not satisfied, then one more coat and some 2000 grit.

Lord knows it's cheaper to let the truck sit (not being driven) and take the time to do this than to drive it everywhere and fill up the tank every 3 days. The truck is my daily driver, and it only sees about 25 miles round trip to the office.

I am hooked on this thread and can't wait to post completed pictures! I will keep the camera close by and the progress/experiences listed here! I hope you all don't mind lot's of pictures!! <------ Is this a mullet toss or a mohawk? Inquiring minds want to know!

Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/06/08 06:28 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38235
05/06/08 12:24 AM
05/06/08 12:24 AM

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Marq, below is the outcome of my Royal Blue/Smoke Grey rusto job. I'm pretty pleased with it except for some orange peel in the grey. It seems to me that the flat surfaces are harder to deal with. The blue came out almost flawlessly. In the pic, I haven't wetsanded or polished. Now I'm experimenting on my tunk lid with Black as I will paint either the whole car black or just the top part and have a Black/Blue car. I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the black on with coverage. It gets a little disapoiinting when I keep wetsanding down to the grey. I'm thinking I should just put like a good 6 thin coats before I wetsand. Better yet, maybe I'll check out our local boat supply store to see if they have Brightside. Any direction would be apprecieated. Thanks to all. This thread rocks!!!

-Ted


[image][/image]

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38236
05/06/08 07:25 AM
05/06/08 07:25 AM
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Here are some before, and current pictures I have of my car. Its been a long road with 3 active kids, but I am making great progress. I may even have it all put together this summer.

4407905-Front.jpg (428 downloads)
Last edited by v8mirage; 05/06/08 07:27 AM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: v8mirage] #38237
05/06/08 07:29 AM
05/06/08 07:29 AM
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And here is the car currently.

4407913-P4110046.JPG (471 downloads)
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: v8mirage] #38238
05/06/08 03:39 PM
05/06/08 03:39 PM

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How thin are you guys applying your coats? What does the paint/mineral spirits look like after mixing it by hand. Is it really super thin and almost like the mineral spirits are seperated (kind of like a oil and water type separation?)

Thanks!

John

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38239
05/06/08 06:45 PM
05/06/08 06:45 PM

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My mixture was 50/50. It looked just like the paint but thinner. I didn't see the oil/water separation that you describe. On my Malibu I used 7 coats of each color before I was done.

-Ted

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/tedgriffith/65chevelleMalibu292/Rusto%20Paint%20Job/

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38240
05/06/08 07:28 PM
05/06/08 07:28 PM

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Quote:

My mixture was 50/50. It looked just like the paint but thinner. I didn't see the oil/water separation that you describe. On my Malibu I used 7 coats of each color before I was done.

-Ted





Wow! A 50/50! I guess I was thinking I was cutting too much with it being about 75/25. Ok, I guess I will have to revisit this and get off my butt. I have to replace the fan clutch (oh yay) so, that is going to take presidence. I also have 2 girls (4 & 6) that missed me this past weekend because I spent most of my time in the garage painting!! LOL - so, I will probably do the fan clutch tonight, get some wet sanding done Wednesday or Thursday and then maybe a coat or two this weekend (I hope!)

I was wondering Oyevayboy, seeing as your in AZ, what did you find was your final cut for our climate? I don't have any paint measuring cups, so I am kind of improvising with tupperware!

John

Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/06/08 07:30 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38241
05/06/08 08:00 PM
05/06/08 08:00 PM
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Quote:

How thin are you guys applying your coats? What does the paint/mineral spirits look like after mixing it by hand. Is it really super thin and almost like the mineral spirits are seperated (kind of like a oil and water type separation?)

Thanks!

John




I would say I am close to 50/50 as well. Otherwise I get a lot of orange peel. Sometimes I have to add MS when I get close to the end if I have been painting a while or it gets kinda thick again.

I don't see any separation of the paint and MS, but it does take a while to mix sometimes.

Last edited by v8mirage; 05/06/08 08:02 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38242
05/06/08 10:21 PM
05/06/08 10:21 PM
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Quote:

Thanks for the quick response Marq. I was hoping to have you chime in! Does orange peel begin to disappear as the paint cures to it's final hardness? It seems like the paint is showing less orange peel as it has longer to dry!




The story on orange peel is pretty straight forward and it explains why you would see a rise of the orange peel and then a settling back of the orange peel to a lower level.

Ok... so there is a coat of paint on the car, or bike or tool chest or whatever. And so we fall back to my lame ascii graphics to explain this :

Ok.. here is a fresh coat of paint applied to a surface

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX - recent applied paint layer
---------------------- - surface paint applied to

Now... when you add a new coat of paint on to this it looks like this :

NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN - fresh coat of paint
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX - previous coat of paint
---------------------- - original surface paint applied to

Now... that XXXXXXXX layer is the one that will decide whether you get orange peel or not. Because the XXXXXXXXXX layer is actually two layers. If you were to look at it from a side profile :

0000000000000000000000 - outer skin of coating
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx - paint trapped between skin and subsurface
______________________ - original subsurface

What you see above is that the coat of paint as it cures forms an outer skin as it hardens.

The xxxxxxxxxx layer is the paint that is trapped between the outer skin and it is slower at curing and hardening because its curing time is slowed by the formation of the other skin. The carrier or gases have a harder and slower time evaporating out through the hardened outer skin.

That xxxxxxxxx trapped layer needs to reach a point of curing or hardening where it is no longer any curing happening. Otherwise it is still somewhat moist.

IF you slap a new coat of paint on the paint while only the outer layer of the previous coat is cured and its underlayer is still moist, the new coat of paint will weaken the tension or hardness of the previous layers outer skin.

AS the new coat of paint now begins to dry, it will be contracting and forming a new tension on its outer skin. But since the previous paint formation's outer skin has been weakened and it has a moist layer still trapped beneath it, this causes the lower layer of paints skin to contract and shift - this forms the orange peel

Soooooooo... one of the key things we harp on in this roll your own method is to make the paint/mineral spirit mix pretty thin.

Based on what I have just explained above you will see and be able to guess that if you are applying a superthinned layer of paint... there isn't as much paint being trapped between its curing and hardened outer skin and any paint trapped below it. HENCE the entire layer of thinned paint is able to fully cure and harden from top to bottom - without leaving a trapped moist layer beneath the outer skin.

When the coat of paint is rolled on too thick, you can almost guarantee that without a long drying time between coats of paint, you are guaranteed that moist layer is trapped underneath what appears to be a cured outer skin layer.

This whole story or concept is the key to success with the roll your own paint job and avoiding orange peel along the way.

Thinner is better because it helps you avoid any trapped moist layers that can become future orange peel sites...

And patience or properly timing your coats of paint is important to ensure that you have allowed enough time for the layer of paint to have evaporated its gases and formed a solid layer.

So the orange peel, when it happens, contracts the lower weakened skin and rises to its maximum height. Then as the trapped layer evaporates the gases or carrier out it retracts as the gases are expelled, until the lower layer is hardened and cured. But it is unable to return to a flat surface because it has bunched up the lower layers skin and hardened to its wrinkled shape.

Uh... I think I just put 20,000 people to sleep explaining the concept...

.

Last edited by Marq; 05/06/08 10:40 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38243
05/07/08 12:17 AM
05/07/08 12:17 AM

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That's a great write up Marq, and i have read your previous 'novels' you have posted before! And I have yet to be put to sleep!

I think that it's not as much orange peel dissappearing as it is my eye getting used to seeing the paint on the truck. As the first day or two, i wwas all over it with a fine tooth comb and looking at it from every angle. I was being my own worse critic. So, Orange peel is what i saw and that is what I got used to. As others have previously stated, I have looked at other cars in the parking lot and they don't have much less orange peel. The first coat of primer dried over night. The second sat in the direct sunlight for 3 hours (can said it could be wetsanded in about 5 hours normal drying) and then was wetsanded. I then waited about 2 hours after wetsanding to apply the first coat of paint. So, it may not be as cured as a O/N dry, but it was very strong and hard to scrape with a fingernail.

Check out this picture I took last night. You can see some blue visible from where i sanded the primer coats down exposing the original blue (old paint) and where there's some white areas(primer) - this yellow paint layer isn't as thick as may look. I think that is the white primer giving off a misperception. Also, look at the reflection of the light on the hood, it's dull but shows how little orange peel there truly is. It has been two days of sitting in the sun baking. Tomorrow I am going to begin wetsanding. The previously tested area I sanded already hardly got much sanding to expose white primer.

It's so cool though, just one coat and already people began stopping by and commenting on how good it looks. Imagine 5 more coats and a mirror finish!! I CAN'T WAIT!

Thanks for the input so far all! It's *VERY* appreciated!

John

4409988-post_1.JPG (338 downloads)
Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/07/08 12:44 AM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38244
05/09/08 11:50 AM
05/09/08 11:50 AM
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can the rustoleum primer be used as a filler/primer?
safe to do many coats and sand back down liek the paint?
any problems using the white clean metal primer over original painted surfaces or over previous surface rust that has been sandblasted?
i still really want to spray the aluminum and spray clear over it.


03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38245
05/09/08 03:52 PM
05/09/08 03:52 PM

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Marq,

I have a 66 chevy van that i am going to roll with tremclad but first am going to roll on some primer to even out the base. My question is, do I mix the primer with the mineral spirits? If so, to the same consistancy?

Thanks

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: andyoucankeepit] #38246
05/09/08 05:34 PM
05/09/08 05:34 PM

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I did not cut the Primer with Mineral Spirits. I opened the Rustoleum can and after mixing, found it to be really thin to begin with. I didn't want it too thinned out by adding MS. Honestly, I think this would be too thin to use as a filler. Perhaps a different primer, thicker style would be better for filler purposes.

I bought three quarts of white primer, ended only used 1 1/4 quarts for 2 complete coats on my truck. I ended up decided on two coats of the primer, and then paint. The first coat of primer went on and showed some original paint. By the second coat of primer, the original paint was not visible.

Depending on what color paint you will use (a bright color like red, yellow or silver) would definately benefit from white primer. I would even consider a white base with something like Grabber Blue, just to make it pop!


I just checked and I didn't take any pictures of just the first coat of primer. Only after the second coat. Here is a before and after picture:





Hope the two of these shows the difference two coats of primer makes!

Keep us posted and take lots of pictures!

John

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38247
05/09/08 10:23 PM
05/09/08 10:23 PM
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Quote:

Marq,

I have a 66 chevy van that i am going to roll with tremclad but first am going to roll on some primer to even out the base. My question is, do I mix the primer with the mineral spirits? If so, to the same consistancy?

Thanks




If you were using the Brightside primer... I would use it straight out of the can... with the intention of doing a very light wetsanding afterwords to make it as smooth as possible.

If I was using the Rustoleum primer... I would probably treat it the same as the Brightside and use it straight out of the can with the intention of doing a very light wetsanding.

In both cases you could add a little mineral spirit to wetten the primer so that it rolls on and has a bit more time to self-level. The more the primer is able to self-level, the smoother the dried primer will be - requiring less light wetsanding to smoothen up the primed surface prior to painting.

You will note that both of these primers are liquid in a can and both can be rolled on. I would not use the aerosol or spraybomb type primers because they don't deliver enough adhesion or color pigment.

AND don't forget the other advantage of the roll on liquid primers is that you can put 20% of the actual color paint into the primer to get it started leaning towards the color you are going to ultimately end up. Just be sure to allow a little extra drying time.

Just for reference sake : In the case of the above white primered truck, that is heading towards yellow... he could have put 20% yellow paint into his white primer and basically started with a yellowish primer upon which to build his later yellow coats.

.

Last edited by Marq; 05/09/08 10:26 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38248
05/10/08 12:11 PM
05/10/08 12:11 PM

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I never thought about diluting the primer with paint, that would have been a good thought. Well, that's the whole thing though, this is a learning process and will be a trial and error kind of undertaking.

One question I have to you guys, I have decided to change the flat black to a lighter color. Being an Arizona truck, summers will be brutal with the black. What other color would you recommend to go with the Yellow? How bout a silver or light to medium grey? Eventually, I want to make the interior grey. Would a complimentary color be the choice or a primary?

Would a white look better than Grey? I don't necessarily want it to look like a huge golf cart!


Any suggestions would be apppreciated!

Thanks!

Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/10/08 02:25 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38249
05/10/08 07:29 PM
05/10/08 07:29 PM
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Quote:



One question I have to you guys, I have decided to change the flat black to a lighter color. Being an Arizona truck, summers will be brutal with the black. What other color would you recommend to go with the Yellow? How bout a silver or light to medium grey? Eventually, I want to make the interior grey. Would a complimentary color be the choice or a primary?

Would a white look better than Grey? I don't necessarily want it to look like a huge golf cart!


Any suggestions would be apppreciated!

Thanks!




Ok.. first off... forget the aluminum or silver. They tend to fail under extreme heat and sun exposure.

Now... I was closing my eyes and thinking about your truck... with its yellow ... and my first thought was Tweety Bird.

Ok.. so I went to Google and looked up the images of Tweety Bird to see what colors they used to compliment that famous bird...



What I found and liked.... was the dark ( almost burnt ) orange color that they used on Tweety's feet. NOTE : I am talking about that darken orange on Tweety's feet - not the lighter orange background that they used in that picture.

I think that dark bronzy orange goes amazing with flaming yellow...

Black and yellow car color combinations are the most common... and I have always liked the the bumblebee effect.

But your truck is already going to be black on the visible undercarriage and tires.. and yellow on the majority of the body. So the burnt orange could be a nice 'between' color ( between yellow and black - so I guess that would make it a complimentary color to the overall package ).

.

Re: RE: On e question though.... [Re: Marq] #38250
05/12/08 02:44 PM
05/12/08 02:44 PM

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Thanks for the suggestions Marq. Based upon your thoughts, I have made up a couple Photoshop (poorly done mind you) attempts to see the options you mentioned. This may give a different perspective to see it on the truck itself.

DECIDED COLOR:




So far, I have 3 coats yellow put down.

John

White
single choice
Votes accepted starting: 05/12/08 01:44 PM
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Other... (please List)
single choice
Votes accepted starting: 05/12/08 01:44 PM
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Burnt Orange
single choice
Votes accepted starting: 05/12/08 01:44 PM
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Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/16/08 12:31 PM.
Re: RE: On e question though.... #38251
05/12/08 03:22 PM
05/12/08 03:22 PM

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LUV24BY,

I would have to say to go with the same yellow, because you have the black tinted windows to compliment them. Just !! BTW, looks great so far!!!

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38252
05/12/08 03:43 PM
05/12/08 03:43 PM
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I like the yellow or the orange but not in the color sceme you show them in. IMHO if you mix the two keep it suttle nice the tweetybird.

Re: RE: On e question though.... #38253
05/12/08 04:23 PM
05/12/08 04:23 PM

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Quote:

LUV24BY,

I would have to say to go with the same yellow, because you have the black tinted windows to compliment them. Just !! BTW, looks great so far!!!




Thanks Tim, I would agree completely. The damn answer was staring me right in the face LOL. I don't know why it didn't click initially! I added a image with the closest color yellow in photoshop I could find. I think that will be my choice. I appreciate your input, it was funny, I was @ my friend Tracie's cubical talking to her about it and you basically said the same thing she did. I will have to get working on the top too!

One question I haven't seen asked though: How many coats are you re-using your foam rollers for? I have three coats on one roller and it seems to be really nasty. I clean them after every coat w/ Mineral Spirits, but they still get nasty. I am replacing all my roller pads and roller tonight for the next 3 coats.

Thanks so far for the help guys!

John

Last edited by LUV24BY; 05/12/08 06:25 PM.
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