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Re: polishing stage
#38174
04/13/08 07:05 AM
04/13/08 07:05 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I hope you guys dont think I was trying to trick anyone into thinking the picture I posted was the final results of my hood. I think I made it clear that it was a wet hood after a 1000g sanding.
I was told that when I polish it, it should come out just as good as it looks when wet. Ill get a picture of the hood dry though. its very dull with little reflection.
no mate ,its my bad 
i never read your post properly in the
first place .
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New guy here!!! Gonna' give it a shot.......
#38175
04/13/08 06:24 PM
04/13/08 06:24 PM
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Anonymous
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Well, i've been lurking around here long enough, I'm ready to start my project, a '79 Dodge b-100 van. Will try to post pics as i go. Right now it's a faded metallic blue, and I hope to end up with a nice white paint job when i'm done. Have a little body work to do also, so wish me luck. I may need some help from the "Pro-Rollers" on here!  
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Re: polishing stage
#38177
04/13/08 06:29 PM
04/13/08 06:29 PM
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Anonymous
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Also, 69charger,..... 
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Re: New guy here!!! Gonna' give it a shot.......
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#38178
04/13/08 06:36 PM
04/13/08 06:36 PM
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Quote:
best advice? Use a paint gun!!!
Whats the worst that could happen, I'd have to strip it all off?? Ive seen alot of nice paint work in this thread, and i dont have a few hundred bux laying around for a BC/CC paint job. 
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Re: New guy here!!! Gonna' give it a shot.......
#38179
04/14/08 10:01 AM
04/14/08 10:01 AM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
Blackstone
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member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 49
Maine
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Quote:
Quote:
best advice? Use a paint gun!!!
Whats the worst that could happen, I'd have to strip it all off?? Ive seen alot of nice paint work in this thread, and i dont have a few hundred bux laying around for a BC/CC paint job.
Now that we know the preferred method of people who have cash flying from their butts...
Which paint do you have in mind?
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Re: New guy here!!! Gonna' give it a shot.......
[Re: Blackstone]
#38180
04/14/08 09:11 PM
04/14/08 09:11 PM
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hey guys i have done this before so i guess i am a veteran i did chargers method about a year and a half ago and it work just fine for me dont use a spray gun causes too much overspray as i am a painter and have used all sorts of paint 
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Re: New guy here!!! Gonna' give it a shot.......
#38181
04/14/08 09:51 PM
04/14/08 09:51 PM
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I'm gonna use the white "Stops Rust" paint. The van is like i said a dull, faded metallic blue. I think i'll spray the jambs, and around the tight spots first, then start with the roller. The plan is to get the body as straight as i can, then use the rust-oleum primer (rolled on), wet sand that, and then paint it. I used to work in a body shop as a mechanic, but I did alot of watching and learning from the body men there so I think it should turn out ok. I'm not building a "show van", i just want it to look good as a daily driver.  .JPG)
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Re: polishing stage
#38182
04/15/08 07:48 PM
04/15/08 07:48 PM
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just finished final wet sand on test piece, now on to polishing. What have people been getting best results with? and where can i get whatever you are using. I have read that the poorboy stuff is good. Where can i get that stuff? also any other suggestions on what to use would be great.
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Re: polishing stage
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#38183
04/15/08 07:52 PM
04/15/08 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Actually marq, i used turtle wax polishing compound, not the rubbing compound. I did the final wetsand and polish the day after the last coat, tried lots of different compounds (3M, Maguires sp?, mothers...ect...)but i found the $2 tub of polishing compound gave the best polish hands down. I used a 10" 3800rpm random orbit polisher with a terry cloth bonnet, and lots of water (very handy to use a spray bottle). Now I'm not a expert polisher, but i can say it was a total no-brainier to polish with the turtle wax polishing compound, there was no way I'd ever burn thru the paint, this stuff must be 2000+ grit compound... I've used it to polish everything, even my newer cars (bc/cc) that had perty bad scratches, the thing i love about this polish is that it's so fine, there is almost no skill required....my kinda polish.
here's a pic:
I'm sure there is more potential and better cutting compounds/pads, but I'm not an expert polisher...  
Oops guess i missed this post. Where can i get this stuff? walmart maybe?
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New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: Blackstone]
#38185
04/16/08 11:50 AM
04/16/08 11:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
OP
moparts member
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OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
Pretty sure Walmart's got it. If not, most parts stores stock it.
Should be an easy find at any parts store..
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38186
04/17/08 09:22 AM
04/17/08 09:22 AM
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yep it was there. I have finally finished my first piece. It looks good i just have a small problem. It looks like the paint had water spots in it? i know they aren't water spots because i polished and waxed and they are still there. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so what have i done wrong? Do i need to wet sand better?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38187
04/17/08 10:47 AM
04/17/08 10:47 AM
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hey yeah i had this same problem, looks like some residue left over from wet sanding the car stopped the next coat of paint sticking, looks shocking up close on myne but you don't notice it from a few feet away... 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38188
04/17/08 09:40 PM
04/17/08 09:40 PM
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it is my last coat so I'm done painting. But i was hopeing there was way to get rid of it. It looks good from a distance but from a foot or so you can notice the dull water mark look.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38189
04/18/08 12:04 AM
04/18/08 12:04 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
it is my last coat so I'm done painting. But i was hopeing there was way to get rid of it. It looks good from a distance but from a foot or so you can notice the dull water mark look.
There is an old woodworkers trick that 'may' help make the mark disappear "if" it is a waterspot.
Take a clean cloth and wet it with alcohol ( pure rubbing alcohol, gin, vodka etc ( but not beer 
Wipe the white spot. Now... here is the magic... take a blowdryer and blowdry the area with heat on. Take care not to direct toooo much heat to the spot... just keep it a safe distance back from the painted surface so as to not burn or overheat the paint.
IF it is a waterspot, this 'should' remove the whiteness found in the waterspot.
This trick works definitely on wood furniture that has watermarks in it ( so just remember this helpful hint the next time one of your beer bottles leaves a white mark on one of your wooden tables etc.
Marq
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: 69DartGT]
#38191
04/20/08 03:22 PM
04/20/08 03:22 PM
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Anonymous
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Sure-Fire Bubble Popping Method After reading this thread starting from the original page 1 and now seeing where it's gone, I came up with a sure fire bubble popping method. If your paint is thinned properly and you're getting a ton of bubbles.... Hit it with a heat gun. Warm up the heat gun on the low setting, roll your paint, and follow right behind with a heat gun in your other hand. Make quick passes and you'll see the bubbles pop like magic. The trick is that the high heat is enough to fast-evaporate the thin shell of mineral spirits thats holding the bubble together, but nowhere near enough to skin over or dry the paint. Tried it with rustoleum and it worked great.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38192
04/20/08 07:26 PM
04/20/08 07:26 PM
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Can anyone tell me if it is safe to use Rust-Oleum on moving undercarriage parts (like the driveshaft for example)?
Also regarding the undercarriage, should I spray it on or roll it on? And should I first apply Rust-Oleum primer and then Rust-Oleum paint, or should I skip the primer and just use the paint?
I'm in the process of painting an old school bus I'm turning into a camper. The upper body is pretty decent for being 20 some years old, but the undercarriage has quite a bit of rust.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
#38193
04/20/08 09:40 PM
04/20/08 09:40 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Can anyone tell me if it is safe to use Rust-Oleum on moving undercarriage parts (like the driveshaft for example)?
Also regarding the undercarriage, should I spray it on or roll it on? And should I first apply Rust-Oleum primer and then Rust-Oleum paint, or should I skip the primer and just use the paint?
I'm in the process of painting an old school bus I'm turning into a camper. The upper body is pretty decent for being 20 some years old, but the undercarriage has quite a bit of rust.
For the undercarriage of a car or bus... you should be able to directly spray bomb the Rustoleum or Tremclad on. It would be easier than attempting to get into every nook and cranny with a roller and brush.
As for the driveshaft... you should have no problem slapping a coat of paint ( by brush or spray bomb ). The weight of the paint is so insignificant that it should not cause vibrations in the driveshaft.
One thing I would most certainly do prior to spraying the underside of a vehicle ( whether bus or car ) is to use a high pressure washer to blast all the road crap, dead animals, flakes of surface rust and other undercarriage debris off. This would give the paint a better chance at getting a strong adhesion directly to the undersurface.
Since Rustoleum/Tremclad are designed to be 'anti-rust' paints... they will do a good jobs at sealing up the undercarriage surfaces.
The main reason for thoroughly cleaning off the undercarriage prior to painting is also to ensure that the paint won't peel away or somehow separate from the painted surface. The integrity of the Tremclad/Rustoleum as an anti-rust solution under the vehicle might be compromised if water is able to find a way to get between the paint layer and the surface that has been painted.
The weak point to the plan is that once you have fully painted the undercarriage of the vehicle, I would assume that you in the future would have to be doubly cautious when putting a torch under the vehicle. I don't know for sure... as I have no real life incidences that I can fall back to explain this... but imagine the vehicle is in the shop and they are using a torch to cut off the muffler system or bolts off to do a replacement... I am not sure if a Rustoleum painted undercarriage might be more susceptible to catchings on fire ?
I would assume the risk is higher in the first year or so after the undercarriage is painted. After that I would assume that most of the flamable components of the applied paint will have been rendered neutral and not pose any greater risk then say motor oil or transmission fluid that tends to leak and gravitate to the undercarriage of the vehicle.
One potential benefit of the Tremclad/Rustoleum undercarriage painting is that it may work as a sound deadener and give better sound proofing then say an oil undercoating on the undercarriage.
The paint has a thicker skin when dried then a lot of the undercoatings sprayed on the bottom of vehicles.
The other benefit is that a year after 'the initial' Tremclad/Rustoleum undercarriage painting, you could probably take your garden hose, spray the undercarriage to loosen any road dirt and give it a supplemental spray bombing with the Tremclad or Rustoleum to simply touch up or boost the protection that you already have.. or to touch up any spots where road rocks have flown up and scarred the paint and exposed the metal surface below.
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