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Re: jeep progress #38154
04/08/08 01:21 PM
04/08/08 01:21 PM

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4340892-yellowpaint1.JPG (332 downloads)
Re: jeep progress #38155
04/08/08 01:22 PM
04/08/08 01:22 PM

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one more

Re: jeep progress #38156
04/09/08 04:26 AM
04/09/08 04:26 AM

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one more




paint looks very nicely levelled on those pictures.
is there any peel closer ??

what paint are you using ??

Last edited by Schakal; 04/09/08 06:55 AM.
Re: jeep progress #38157
04/09/08 10:13 AM
04/09/08 10:13 AM

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one more




paint looks very nicely levelled on those pictures.
is there any peel closer ??

what paint are you using ??




Im not really not getting any orange peel from the Rust SUNBURST YELLOW... I do have just a little from my pre primer job.. Only in the low spots... I didnt wont to sand to far down in those areas and create a bowl like look... Im hoping with sevearl coats they will feel in.. Pic quality not to great... Teenagers friens must have sticky fingers.... My $500 sony camera and $100 chip is gone... Back to a 2 pixel crap camera.. Some have issues with bubbles... I get em also but a hair dryer works well... I just hold it in other hand and follow behind the roller.. When bubbles pop I find it does leave I high circle... Key is I just keep going over same area several times, let paint get a tad tacky... Last passes are just with the weight of the roller, very light passes..
Sometimes its even better to move to the next panel and then go back 5 minutes later and roll again real light, get the stuborn bubbles... I pass the roller over 2 inches at a time... This way no roller marks at all... Start the roller at one end and finish at or off the panel.. Comes out very even... Dont turn the roller mid pass... It takes away paint as you turn..

I think my bottle for mixing is 6ounces... I just do 2 mineral spirits and 4 paint.. I even shake the hell out of it to mix it.. Bubbles with my methods dont matter what so ever.. One thing also is Im painting in about 45-50degrees... This doesnt allow the paint to set up as quick and lets you rework and area.... When Im done I bake it with my turbo heater to about 80 in my garage..
So all you in the heat, may have the paint set up to quick to re-roll it... But think same can work if you just time it right..

Ok time to go paint...

Re: jeep progress #38158
04/09/08 04:01 PM
04/09/08 04:01 PM

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Has anyone tried Green? I dont have time to go though million posts

Pictures please!!! Green paint!! Thanks

polishing stage #38159
04/09/08 05:42 PM
04/09/08 05:42 PM

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ok here is my test piece done with combi color (RUSTOLEUM ) final coat wetsanded 1000g and 1500g
than i hit it with SIMONIZ BLACK WAX/POLISH using
the cheapo orbital polisher i got here and all i get is this kinda dull shine .



i worked about 5-10 minutes with the polisher by the way .
now first i am thinking the polisher is not up to the task (may be i could get some decent shine
after 30 minutes on 1 section ? )
secondly the polish that contains wax
is no good ??

what to do next ??

Re: polishing stage #38160
04/10/08 02:18 AM
04/10/08 02:18 AM
Joined: May 2006
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Marq Offline
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Quote:

ok here is my test piece done with combi color (RUSTOLEUM ) final coat wetsanded 1000g and 1500g
than i hit it with SIMONIZ BLACK WAX/POLISH using
the cheapo orbital polisher i got here and all i get is this kinda dull shine .

what to do next ??




You didn't mention whether you had hit it with a rubbing compound....

The original choice by Charger was the Turtle Rubbing compound... others have focused on the Poor Boy products. I used the 3m Rubbing Compound....

When you have taken the paint to your highest grit for wetsanding, you should move next to the rubbing compound to further smooth the surface.

I can't speak to much about the Simonize product, but it is probably more of a cleaner/wax then a polish/wax. The difference being that the cleaner/wax does not have any grit to it... so it is simply cleaning surfactants off the surface and trying to lay down a wax coating. Whereas a polish/wax does have some grit to it and it is able to minutely grind some of the surface layer while laying down the coat of paint.

IF you go with the rubbing compound... that should actually be able to work you up to a dull shine all on its own.

You could then go on to just a straight carnuba wax after the compunding...

What you might want to try at this point is take your 2000 grit sandpaper, and do a very light wetsanding again. Then hit it with the rubbing compound to reach the dull shine stage. Then go for your choice of wax to lay down a protective sealant layer ( and max out the shine and gloss that you are able to achieve ).

You mention that you were using a Simonize Black type wax. IF it is one of those 'colored' waxes that have color loaded into them... I should mention that they are primarily for use on oxidized surfaces. It tries to impregnate the painted surface with the black die in the wax. It works great on a heavily oxidized surface that will suck in the black die color like a thirsty sponge. However, on a relatively sealed surface that isn't as porous as an oxidized surface, the black pigment may actually be interfering in your trying to get a maxxed out shine.

And just to round out the topic... the polisher machine... and the types of cloths or bonnets you put on the machine to spread and work the waxes or rubbing compound all have an effect on how the final product turns out.

.

Last edited by Marq; 04/10/08 02:22 AM.
Re: polishing stage [Re: Marq] #38161
04/10/08 09:37 AM
04/10/08 09:37 AM
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Actually marq, i used turtle wax polishing compound, not the rubbing compound. I did the final wetsand and polish the day after the last coat, tried lots of different compounds (3M, Maguires sp?, mothers...ect...)but i found the $2 tub of polishing compound gave the best polish hands down. I used a 10" 3800rpm random orbit polisher with a terry cloth bonnet, and lots of water (very handy to use a spray bottle). Now I'm not a expert polisher, but i can say it was a total no-brainier to polish with the turtle wax polishing compound, there was no way I'd ever burn thru the paint, this stuff must be 2000+ grit compound... I've used it to polish everything, even my newer cars (bc/cc) that had perty bad scratches, the thing i love about this polish is that it's so fine, there is almost no skill required....my kinda polish.

here's a pic:


I'm sure there is more potential and better cutting compounds/pads, but I'm not an expert polisher...

Re: polishing stage [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #38162
04/10/08 05:21 PM
04/10/08 05:21 PM

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Im glad you guys brought up the subject of waxing. I myself have never waxed a car before. I always owned older daily drivers. When I was younger I went to apply at car detail joint and they handed me an orbital polisher and told me to polish a hood of some old Cadillac well needless to say, I didn't do too good. I mean I didn't damage the hood or anything, but just plain out didn't do it right.

I can find out how to wax a car on the internet, but id like to also get personal input from you guys. I hear a lot about poorboys products and would probably start using it. for some reason I think turtle wax rubbing compound will dull my projected mirror-like reflection

Picture was taken after 1000g sand down and hosed it down. this ISN'T after polishing.


I'm finished with my hood with 9 coats. yea 9 coats, I ran outta paint I finished it with a 1000g and when it came to wet sanding, I wondering even though I have lightly sanded the surface, there are tons of small shiny spots on the hood(sorry no pics) I want to go back and sand it to a dull surface, but im afraid ill hit back to the original surface. do i have to dull the hood? or can I go ahead and polish it?

Last edited by M2001; 04/10/08 05:24 PM.
Re: polishing stage #38163
04/10/08 05:34 PM
04/10/08 05:34 PM

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69charger, Exit, and Marq

I want to thank you all for ALL the information you've shared. It's amazing seeing how things have progressed over time.

I have to admit, I haven't read all the pages YET. I started reading from the beginning and am only halfway through 'Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page44'. I'm getting too excited and wanted to ask some questions as I catch up and really get started.

I scanned a couple of the most recent pages in this thread and I'm really glad to see 69charger and Marq still posting!

My project car is a mess at the moment, with different pieces on and off the car. If I bought some Brightside paint and tested it out on some panels, how long do you think that container of paint would be good for? 1 month, 2 months, more?

After reading the very first thread, I was so excited last night that I went out and bought a qt of rustoleum to test out. Today, I caught up on reading and was impressed with the Brightside results! My plans of having my car painted have been pushed back so many times now that I completely gave up on it a year or so ago. Reading as far as I have has renewed my interest in completing my project!

Funny thing is that I actually read about this back in 2006, but didn't really consider it at the time. I should have stuck with it then!

Thank you

Re: polishing stage #38164
04/10/08 06:09 PM
04/10/08 06:09 PM

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Im glad you guys brought up the subject of waxing. I myself have never waxed a car before. I always owned older daily drivers. When I was younger I went to apply at car detail joint and they handed me an orbital polisher and told me to polish a hood of some old Cadillac well needless to say, I didn't do too good. I mean I didn't damage the hood or anything, but just plain out didn't do it right.

I can find out how to wax a car on the internet, but id like to also get personal input from you guys. I hear a lot about poorboys products and would probably start using it. for some reason I think turtle wax rubbing compound will dull my projected mirror-like reflection

Picture was taken after 1000g sand down and hosed it down. this ISN'T after polishing.


I'm finished with my hood with 9 coats. yea 9 coats, I ran outta paint I finished it with a 1000g and when it came to wet sanding, I wondering even though I have lightly sanded the surface, there are tons of small shiny spots on the hood(sorry no pics) I want to go back and sand it to a dull surface, but im afraid ill hit back to the original surface. do i have to dull the hood? or can I go ahead and polish it?





dude what paint are you using to get that shine
after 1000g wet sanding

Re: polishing stage [Re: Marq] #38165
04/10/08 06:23 PM
04/10/08 06:23 PM

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Quote:

Quote:

ok here is my test piece done with combi color (RUSTOLEUM ) final coat wetsanded 1000g and 1500g
than i hit it with SIMONIZ BLACK WAX/POLISH using
the cheapo orbital polisher i got here and all i get is this kinda dull shine .

what to do next ??




You didn't mention whether you had hit it with a rubbing compound....

The original choice by Charger was the Turtle Rubbing compound... others have focused on the Poor Boy products. I used the 3m Rubbing Compound....

When you have taken the paint to your highest grit for wetsanding, you should move next to the rubbing compound to further smooth the surface.

I can't speak to much about the Simonize product, but it is probably more of a cleaner/wax then a polish/wax. The difference being that the cleaner/wax does not have any grit to it... so it is simply cleaning surfactants off the surface and trying to lay down a wax coating. Whereas a polish/wax does have some grit to it and it is able to minutely grind some of the surface layer while laying down the coat of paint.

IF you go with the rubbing compound... that should actually be able to work you up to a dull shine all on its own.

You could then go on to just a straight carnuba wax after the compunding...

What you might want to try at this point is take your 2000 grit sandpaper, and do a very light wetsanding again. Then hit it with the rubbing compound to reach the dull shine stage. Then go for your choice of wax to lay down a protective sealant layer ( and max out the shine and gloss that you are able to achieve ).

You mention that you were using a Simonize Black type wax. IF it is one of those 'colored' waxes that have color loaded into them... I should mention that they are primarily for use on oxidized surfaces. It tries to impregnate the painted surface with the black die in the wax. It works great on a heavily oxidized surface that will suck in the black die color like a thirsty sponge. However, on a relatively sealed surface that isn't as porous as an oxidized surface, the black pigment may actually be interfering in your trying to get a maxxed out shine.

And just to round out the topic... the polisher machine... and the types of cloths or bonnets you put on the machine to spread and work the waxes or rubbing compound all have an effect on how the final product turns out.

.




sorry should have mentioned ,i have not used a rubbing compound after 1500g went straight to
that black polish .

however today i hit it with various other stuff
(must say i have no clue what most of them are for )
here are some pics of the stuff i used ,the surface is very smooth and is also pretty shiny but it has not got that wet look .

note the can of paint in the pic !!




this is what i got after using rubbing compound and everything else on that picture

Last edited by Schakal; 04/10/08 06:25 PM.
Re: polishing stage #38166
04/10/08 10:58 PM
04/10/08 10:58 PM
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Posts: 32
Edgerton WI
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Quote:



this is what i got after using rubbing compound and everything else on that picture
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa183/partsrenault/S8003318.jpg




I believe none of those are what you need. well maybe the rubbing compound but then after that you need a good polishing compound like charger posted.....no wax or sealants, just polishing compound. put some on there, keep it wet while you work it very good with the orbital. that piece will not be a 5 minute job. you have to work the polish and the surface for a while and the polish breaks down and the tiny scratches you make get smaller and smaller and eventualy it loosk shiny. like charger said he spent at least 10 hours poishing his car. the results are worth the work.

of course I didn't get much sleep last night and could be completely wrong!!!

Re: polishing stage [Re: Donny O.] #38167
04/11/08 01:12 AM
04/11/08 01:12 AM

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So i read up on this process for a couple monthes trying to decide whether or not to try it out and after searching around at different paint shops, not one of them offered a satin/flat finish. so i decided to give it a shot! so now i finished my 6th coat, using all the correct materials and wetsanding steps etc..
my only question now is it looks like i have a completely solid color with no thin spots but you can see alot of roller edge lines.

does this indicate: to thin coats, not enough coats or should they all disappear with the last wetsand/buffing step??

thanks for the help!

theres a pic at this link: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v665/jcwhite1288/?action=view&current=0410082027.jpg

Last edited by jcwhite1288; 04/11/08 04:05 AM.
Re: polishing stage #38168
04/11/08 07:45 AM
04/11/08 07:45 AM

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Quote:

Quote:

Im glad you guys brought up the subject of waxing. I myself have never waxed a car before. I always owned older daily drivers. When I was younger I went to apply at car detail joint and they handed me an orbital polisher and told me to polish a hood of some old Cadillac well needless to say, I didn't do too good. I mean I didn't damage the hood or anything, but just plain out didn't do it right.

I can find out how to wax a car on the internet, but id like to also get personal input from you guys. I hear a lot about poorboys products and would probably start using it. for some reason I think turtle wax rubbing compound will dull my projected mirror-like reflection

Picture was taken after 1000g sand down and hosed it down. this ISN'T after polishing.


I'm finished with my hood with 9 coats. yea 9 coats, I ran outta paint I finished it with a 1000g and when it came to wet sanding, I wondering even though I have lightly sanded the surface, there are tons of small shiny spots on the hood(sorry no pics) I want to go back and sand it to a dull surface, but im afraid ill hit back to the original surface. do i have to dull the hood? or can I go ahead and polish it?





dude what paint are you using to get that shine
after 1000g wet sanding





Thats regular rustoleum black.

Re: polishing stage #38169
04/11/08 10:40 AM
04/11/08 10:40 AM

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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Im glad you guys brought up the subject of waxing. I myself have never waxed a car before. I always owned older daily drivers. When I was younger I went to apply at car detail joint and they handed me an orbital polisher and told me to polish a hood of some old Cadillac well needless to say, I didn't do too good. I mean I didn't damage the hood or anything, but just plain out didn't do it right.

I can find out how to wax a car on the internet, but id like to also get personal input from you guys. I hear a lot about poorboys products and would probably start using it. for some reason I think turtle wax rubbing compound will dull my projected mirror-like reflection

Picture was taken after 1000g sand down and hosed it down. this ISN'T after polishing.


I'm finished with my hood with 9 coats. yea 9 coats, I ran outta paint I finished it with a 1000g and when it came to wet sanding, I wondering even though I have lightly sanded the surface, there are tons of small shiny spots on the hood(sorry no pics) I want to go back and sand it to a dull surface, but im afraid ill hit back to the original surface. do i have to dull the hood? or can I go ahead and polish it?





dude what paint are you using to get that shine
after 1000g wet sanding





Thats regular rustoleum black.




i am kind of speechless on your results .
i know the packaging will differ slightly
but does that regular rustoleum black
look anything like this one ??



cause i slightly worry i am using the wrong stuff
if thats what you get after wet sanding ??

Re: polishing stage #38170
04/11/08 12:30 PM
04/11/08 12:30 PM

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I have yet to polish the hood yet. That shot was taken after my 9th coat/1000g wetsand. All I did was hose it down with water.

As for the packaging, I have a different looking can. lemme see if I can dig up a picture.

Here is the same exact can I used.
http://www.igraver.com/images/rustoleum.jpg

Last edited by M2001; 04/11/08 04:27 PM.
Re: polishing stage #38171
04/11/08 11:15 PM
04/11/08 11:15 PM
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Quote:

I have yet to polish the hood yet. That shot was taken after my 9th coat/1000g wetsand. All I did was hose it down with water.

As for the packaging, I have a different looking can. lemme see if I can dig up a picture.

Here is the same exact can I used.
http://www.igraver.com/images/rustoleum.jpg




i'm not to sure the people asking about your shine realised it was WET still. they were thinking you did a 1000g wetsand and that is the shine you have on your paint, but it is the water shining. lets see a picture dry!!

Re: polishing stage [Re: Donny O.] #38172
04/12/08 09:49 AM
04/12/08 09:49 AM

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Quote:

Quote:

I have yet to polish the hood yet. That shot was taken after my 9th coat/1000g wetsand. All I did was hose it down with water.

As for the packaging, I have a different looking can. lemme see if I can dig up a picture.

Here is the same exact can I used.
http://www.igraver.com/images/rustoleum.jpg




i'm not to sure the people asking about your shine realised it was WET still. they were thinking you did a 1000g wetsand and that is the shine you have on your paint, but it is the water shining. lets see a picture dry!!




very good point there ,just noticed the water drops by the front edge
must learn to read properly

Re: polishing stage #38173
04/12/08 04:53 PM
04/12/08 04:53 PM

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I hope you guys dont think I was trying to trick anyone into thinking the picture I posted was the final results of my hood. I think I made it clear that it was a wet hood after a 1000g sanding.

I was told that when I polish it, it should come out just as good as it looks when wet. Ill get a picture of the hood dry though. its very dull with little reflection.

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