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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Jerry] #38014
03/02/08 06:41 PM
03/02/08 06:41 PM

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Quote:

i have a question on how you guys did the door jambs and trunk jambs. did you actually use a roller and brush or did you spray bomb the jambs?




I haven't done my door jams yet, only the tailgate jam. I used the roller as I was able to sqeeze it into all the areas.

I should be able to use the roller for the door jams aswell as my doors can open pretty wide and there's not too much fidly bits, but i guess it all depends on the particular car...

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Jerry] #38015
03/03/08 12:01 AM
03/03/08 12:01 AM
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Canada
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Quote:

i have a question on how you guys did the door jambs and trunk jambs. did you actually use a roller and brush or did you spray bomb the jambs?




I began my paint job by using a Tremclad spray bomb to spray the inner door jams, underside of the hood and underside of the trunk. Since I was rolling the car body in Tremclad 'Fire Red', the aerosol is the same color as the liquid paint - so no problem on matching. And when I switched to Brightside it also was 'Fire Red' which is identical in color to the Tremclad 'Fire Red'.

At this moment, with my car in its completed state, it would take a really trained eye to spot where I used the aerosol bomb on the hard to reach spots and the more visually exposed body areas that were finished using Brightside.

I found it simply more easy and convenient to spray those hard to reach areas. As well, those areas are less exposed to road rocks or chipping, so the aerosol holds up quite well in those areas and maintains a good shine.

What I did do to give the aerosol a fighting chance is :

a ) high pressure hosed those hard to reach areas to get rid of any oils, dirt or other crap that were in there....

b ) I then followed that up by using an aerosol bomb of 'brake cleaning spray' to ensure that there was no soap or oil left on those areas. If you are going to spray this area with the 'brake cleaning spray', just make sure that you use the one that doesn't leave anything on the surface when it dries.

Also, it is important to mention that I did all those hidden areas BEFORE starting painting on the body panels or rockers. The reason : because the 'brake cleaning spray' would have eaten away any fresh paint on the rocker panels or any where else the brake cleaning spray might have flowed to. So it just makes sense to do things in their right sequence.... do the inner jambs, and undersides of the trunk and hood before you move on to the body panels.

.
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Last edited by Marq; 03/03/08 12:08 AM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Marq] #38016
03/03/08 04:49 PM
03/03/08 04:49 PM

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Anyone got any supplies they want to sell?

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #38017
03/05/08 07:38 PM
03/05/08 07:38 PM

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Poor mans canopy, amazon head hunter tribe style.


(Dont laugh )

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #38018
03/06/08 01:22 AM
03/06/08 01:22 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
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Poor mans canopy, amazon head hunter tribe style.






To Quote John Wayne : " A man's gotta do... what a man's gotta do "

I think its pretty creative to see what you have been able to put together. If we were on Survivor Island, I would like to have you as a team mate. At least we would have a shelter on our first day on the island...

Now... if we were on Gilligan's Island, I would probably want the Professor to be my team mate. Heck he could build a three floor condo with just coconuts

.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. [Re: Marq] #38019
03/07/08 07:29 PM
03/07/08 07:29 PM

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Does anyone know of a website that sells cheap materials? My local Home Depot and Lowes sell foam rollers for 6-7 bucks.

Re: surface contamination and adhesion problems [Re: dodgeram440] #38020
03/08/08 08:31 PM
03/08/08 08:31 PM

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Ok sorry to butt in here.... Im new to site and simply wont to post a thread... And get started how the heck do I do this? Is it the threaded button that takes you to a huge list... help help please... anybody

Re: surface contamination and adhesion problems #38021
03/09/08 04:01 AM
03/09/08 04:01 AM

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Quote:

Ok sorry to butt in here.... Im new to site and simply wont to post a thread... And get started how the heck do I do this? Is it the threaded button that takes you to a huge list... help help please... anybody





Assuming that huge list are the threads in "Moparts Question and Answer", look for the "POST" button. Thats how you create a new thread.




back on topic - are you guys using angle grinders to polish your vehicles?

Re: surface contamination and adhesion problems #38022
03/09/08 10:49 PM
03/09/08 10:49 PM
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Quote:

..back on topic - are you guys using angle grinders to polish your vehicles?




Random orbital polishers... with a preference towards the Porter & Cable model but some good results have been obtained with some of the cheaper models of 'random orbital sanders'.

The problem with angle grinders is that they do not really emulate hand polishing. Random orbital sanders don't just spin around and around in circles... they also shift side to side while spinning. In effect this is like how you would rub or polish if you were doing it by hand. Angle grinders are ideal for ripping and quickly grinding rust off metal surfaces however...

The angle grinder is spinning in circles only. So it is almost natural that it will put circular swirls into whatever surface you are polishing.

Now... I seem to recall some folks mentioning that the angle grinders spin at a higher RPM compared to the random orbital sanders. The word was that this higher rate of spin on the angle grinders would 'burn' the paint or finish because it would be too difficult for the average person to keep the movement of the grinder flowing sufficiently so that one spot doesn't get over revved compared to another spot.

I guess lastly... there are tons of add ons designed for the random orbital sanders especially for the purposes of polishing and buffing surfaces. Whereas I don't think there are too many add ons designed for the angle grinders for the purposes of buffing and polishing ( although I suspect some clever lads have found ways to adapt random orbital sander add ons to work on the angle grinders.

If a Porter Cable random orbital sander is not already in your tool kit or the bucks might not be there for such a useful purchase, then you can go ahead with one of the cheaper random orbital sanders and it will approximate the same quality of finish in the end. The biggest difference between the Porter Cable and the $39 Simonize type buffer/polisher are longevity and user comfort. The cheaper product will die faster and vibrate your arms...

.

Last edited by Marq; 03/09/08 10:51 PM.
Polishing with Angle Grinders [Re: Marq] #38023
03/11/08 09:05 PM
03/11/08 09:05 PM

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One thought.. an angle grinder (unless its brand new) has likely been used for ginding. Therefore there's a good chance that some small paricles of metal or another hard substance are clinging to it. It wouldn't take much under the high speed wheel to damage your pristine paint job. There may even be some grit that blows out from the motor.


Just a thought..

Last edited by rustinaway; 03/11/08 09:09 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread. #38024
03/11/08 09:19 PM
03/11/08 09:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:

Hey all,

I just stripped all the paint down (aircraft remover), sanded with 220 then 400 and then laid on the 1st coat (rustoleum gloss black).

I used about 65% rustoleum and 35% mineral spirits.

Am I right in thinking that I put this 1st coat on way too thick? How can I fix it? Can I just wetsand it before the 2nd coat or could I get by wetsanding after the 2nd coat?


First Coat (unsanded)








I think that looks a tad heavy.....BUT there's 2 ways to look at it, since you layed it down very nice and smooth, you'll get coverage faster, and you could lay 2 coats as you did, and wetsand (which i actually find quite quick to do myself) and then another coat, really good perfect wetsand, and polish.....done...

the key being you layed a good coat down quite smoothly, and anytime you can do that your ahead in my book. You could be done in 4 coats....

Re: Let me introduce myself #38025
03/11/08 10:39 PM
03/11/08 10:39 PM

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Ok well Sorry cant seem to figure out how to not highjack a post to post...

Im doing a 1979 cj7 frame up rebuild... But not more than just a back yard wont to be mechanic..
Best thing is Im learning alot and been amazing my self with results so far...
All my body parts been stripped down to metal..
Had really no choices but to use filler however in some arears.. Really been reading and debating to pay $1100.00 to get it painted, cheapist I got quoted..
Or follow you all in your expierence's... Im going to do the $100 route... Only thing have not purchased is primer! Denver has West Marine and but cant find Brightside primer in there phone book of products..

Visited Napa today... They have that tractor primer stuff that is rollerable... But beeing that I have it down to bare metal... Sounds like the Bright side primer will cover better, to give me better sanding surface... How important is the primer?

Little worried that either would work with the
Rust Sunburst Yellow I'll be using...
Speaking of Yellow Ive learned its also hard to paint Yellow... But if I can avoid fish eye ect. then Im willing to put the extra time in coverage coats.. Sence I cant go metalic, yellow will make it POP...!

Heres a link to my jeep progress if interested!
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865425

Take a look and Ill keep you all informed of my progress.....

Thanks for the great thread to all who have made it!!!!!!

Re: Let me introduce myself #38026
03/12/08 08:37 AM
03/12/08 08:37 AM
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Marq Offline
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Quote:



Or follow you all in your expierence's... Im going to do the $100 route... Only thing have not purchased is primer! Denver has West Marine and but cant find Brightside primer in there phone book of products..

Visited Napa today... They have that tractor primer stuff that is rollerable... But beeing that I have it down to bare metal... Sounds like the Bright side primer will cover better, to give me better sanding surface... How important is the primer?

Little worried that either would work with the
Rust Sunburst Yellow I'll be using...
Speaking of Yellow Ive learned its also hard to paint Yellow... But if I can avoid fish eye ect. then Im willing to put the extra time in coverage coats.. Sence I cant go metalic, yellow will make it POP...!




Ok... first off... I would not hesitate to use a tractor primer. It would provide good anti-rust protection and probably lay down a nice thicker coat of primer that can be sanded ( old farmers are pretty demanding about products performing or they would have bad mouthed the product in to extinction ).

NOW... after looking at your pics... my mind started formulating how I would approach that project... and the first thing that jumped in my pea size brain is ' Rhino-Coat or maybe it is called Rhinohide ). As you know... they sell a paint/coating that is designed to be rolled or spray bombed in the back of pickup truck beds. It is something like a highly platicized or rubberized coating. The idea behind the product is that it can take a heck of a beating and physical contact and keeps on shining and performing. It has amazing adhesion qualities and it has superior sealing capabilities.

OK>.. so that being said... I would get a gallon of that Rhinohide type coating ( in black ) and use it to paint down all the cockpit floorboards and interior surfaces ( like even the faux interior trunk area, under the rear seats etc. Heck you could even use that stuff to slap a few layers on the underside of wheel panels. It might even be good enough to slap on the underside of the floor panels. It would not only provide you with a superior surface coating for those exposed areas, but it would also provide sound deadening capabilities.

I popped over to your message thread and noticed you had already been using a product called Herculined. I assume it is probably in the same category as the Rhinocoat stuff. I don't know anything about Herculine. But what I do know about the Rhinocoat is that it does give a very durable and attractive 'finished' appearance when it dries. And I don't think the Rhinocoat can be chipped out when rocks hit it or you accidentally drop a brick on the floor panels etc.

I figure that paint on those interior parts of a Jeep would not stand up as well in the long term due to all the direct contact of those surfaces.

OK>.. once I had all those interior parts Rhino coated... I would then move on to the roller primering of all the body panels and then the roller painting of those panels.

Marq.

.

Last edited by Marq; 03/12/08 08:46 AM.
Re: Let me introduce myself [Re: Marq] #38027
03/12/08 11:18 AM
03/12/08 11:18 AM

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Quote:

Quote:



Ok... first off... I would not hesitate to use a tractor primer. It would provide good anti-rust protection and probably lay down a nice thicker coat of primer that can be sanded ( old farmers are pretty demanding about products performing or they would have bad mouthed the product in to extinction ).

Well good... Napa is 5min away and westmarine is about 40min... So Nappa it is...

Now Marq... I did use Herculiner on inside and out side bottom of tub... But it will not be painted... Black looks fine and will give it good contrast to the Yellow.... So just painting the exterior of this jeep...
Herculiner does fade over time from the sun.. But is a product that sprays on with UV protectant in it to help avoid that..

Thanks for the input... Puts me that much closer to getting started...

Re: Let me introduce myself #38028
03/15/08 09:51 AM
03/15/08 09:51 AM

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hey all just joined today though not a current mopar owner have been in the past.('73 duster,'77 diplomat) and owned an amc ('74 javelin)currently own a '83 ford fairmont futura always looking for new ideas and restoration tips.i have been up late the past few nights reading various posts on this subject i'm considering it myself i put some primer on the front fenders and hood using the rustoleum and it dosen't look that good.so i bought a quart of white primer and a couple of rollers so i'm gonna give it a shot here in the next few days.i'll keep you posted and will try and upload some pics thanks.

Re: Let me introduce myself #38029
03/17/08 07:01 PM
03/17/08 07:01 PM

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Need some more rope to tighten the tarp down and im done!

$25 Car port


Re: Let me introduce myself #38030
03/17/08 11:49 PM
03/17/08 11:49 PM

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With a hut like that, you likely won't be voted off first!

I'm speechless #38031
03/19/08 08:17 AM
03/19/08 08:17 AM
Joined: Jun 2007
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Maine
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This guy is a HOOT! He claims that the $50 paint job is a myth, but that you can get professional results for just a bit more by simply buying his DVD... borrowing a compressor... and a paint gun... and a garage.

He even links you to a site where a guy got amazing results with rolled Rustoleum to prove that rolled Rustoleum doesn't work... Huh?

http://www.easypaintyourcar.com/CarPainting/fiftydollarmyth.html

Re: I'm speechless [Re: Blackstone] #38032
03/19/08 09:58 AM
03/19/08 09:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:

This guy is a HOOT! He claims that the $50 paint job is a myth, but that you can get professional results for just a bit more by simply buying his DVD... borrowing a compressor... and a paint gun... and a garage.

He even links you to a site where a guy got amazing results with rolled Rustoleum to prove that rolled Rustoleum doesn't work... Huh?

http://www.easypaintyourcar.com/CarPainting/fiftydollarmyth.html




Of course it doesn't work, since he is trying to SELL his DVD, and i'm not trying to sell $hit...
His misconception about roller painting pi$$es me off.

He keeps going on about sanding, sanding, well you get the point, the reality of the fact is that within about 10 hours you can easily wetsand, and when you get the process down pat for example, i wetsanded my charger between coats in less than 2 hours. Start to finish, took me 3 days, BUT not solid, about 3 hours a day work. Plus you can do this in a residential area, where if you spray, someone will likely call the police, as happened to me.

I look at his civic, great, the reality is that the novice will most likely screw up the paint job, spraying is HARD. I've done both, many many times. I'd love to race this guy in a paint job, the reality is you have to tape the car up, which in itself would take longer than a few wetsands between coats. Plus his pics SUCK, if his painting skills were good he'd show pictures like this:





I rest my case. I'm not shooting down spraying a car, actually i prefer to spray a car, I'd just like to debunk his referrals to the roller paint job, plus remember this guys motive, he's profiting from this venture, sure he will shoot down the roller paint job; after all he probably lost 90% of his business since this came out. It has really gone a lot farther than i thought it did, if someone told me it would go this crazy I'd never have believed it. Plus i shared it with you guys for FREE!!!!!

Re: I'm speechless [Re: 69chargeryeehaa] #38033
03/19/08 11:16 AM
03/19/08 11:16 AM
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Posts: 49
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Quote:

Quote:

Plus i shared it with you guys for FREE!!!!!





... And cheapskates like me worldwide sure appreciate it!

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