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If its foggy it can definitely effect your finish. I would think that no matter what you do to dry it moisture will settle onto the surface.

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My first thought on hearing of the foggy effect... is that you must be in an area where there is condensation in the morning... ie... warm and moist during the day with overnight temperatures dropping to a cooler temperature.

Yep, thats Florida in the winter for ya

If the car is being left outside to dry... there is not much you can do to beat the effects of morning condensation except park it in the garage overnight to dry or hold off painting until the variance between the environment temperatures ( between night and morning ) levels off and the two temperature ranges become more similar.

unfortunately for me, i do not own a garage. So this project is taking on all the elements.

If this is happening AND you are already leaving the car in the garage... ( ruling out the outside temperature variance variable ) then you might try adding a slightly higher ratio of paint into your mixture.

The fogging 'may' not turn out to be a problem in the end... because the fogging is technically sitting on the outer skin of the paint. When you get to the compounding and polishing stage at the end of the project, it will be removing that fine outer skin surface of the paint. The subsequent application of wax at the end of the final polishing will seal the exposed polished outer skin to prevent moisture and oxygen from reaching it.

Thats what im suspecting. After I prep the surface, i use a tack cloth not only to pick up junk but also to see if the condensation collects fast enough to leave a streak when wiping down. which it doesnt.

I would assume and hope that when you add a new coat of paint to your build up of coats, that the 'fog' disappears and is consumed by the fresh layer of paint... and that the fog is only re-appearing 'after' the latest coat has dried. IF SO... then just rest assured that your later compounding and polishing 'should' be able to get the paint to the level of 'unfoginess' that you see when the paint is freshly wet or applied.

my thought exactly

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Wow.... just.... wow. I've spent the last month or so reading the entire thread, front to back... all 200 or so pages over 3 threads. Plus the Hot Rod Article, the rollyourcar.com page, the corvair page, etc.

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Just finished with the fourth coat. Im still not getting complete full coverage. Maybe I thinned the paint too much? Im afraid when i sand with 600 tommorrow morning, im going to remove the fourth coat. What do you guys think?

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In reading all these threads the recurring theme that keeps coming back to me is that although you don't HAVE to use primer to get a good bond it seems like even with as many as ten coats you'd still wind up with a more consistent result if you DID use it.

After all, with the varying levels of sanding/buffing needed one will invariably wind up cutting down more coats in one place versus fewer coats in other places, and this could lead to color variations if the starting point is splotchy and dramatically different underneath from area to area. The primer coat pretty much eliminates this hassle by quickly providing a nice even starting point.

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Just to back that up, while rolling changes the application paradigm, it does not change the physical realities of painting:

All the surface prep work required for a good spray job are still required for a good roll job.

The surface must be smooth and free of contaminants and debris. Sanding marks, if not removed, will be visible in the final product. If the surface is not clean and smooth, it does not matter if the paint cost $7 or $700, is applied with a mop or a $1500 spray rig in a $150,000 booth, it will still look bad.

This ain't latex. It is "Real" car paint, albeit old-school.

Read the threads, follow the instructions, take your time and have fun. At the very least you will have a good story to tell. Whether that story has a one-foot paint job or a 40 foot paint job to show for it, it will still be a good story.

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In reading all these threads the recurring theme that keeps coming back to me is that although you don't HAVE to use primer to get a good bond it seems like even with as many as ten coats you'd still wind up with a more consistent result if you DID use it.

After all, with the varying levels of sanding/buffing needed one will invariably wind up cutting down more coats in one place versus fewer coats in other places, and this could lead to color variations if the starting point is splotchy and dramatically different underneath from area to area. The primer coat pretty much eliminates this hassle by quickly providing a nice even starting point.

My .02

Regards,
Steve

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Wow.... just.... wow. I've spent the last month or so reading the entire thread, front to back... all 200 or so pages over 3 threads. Plus the Hot Rod Article, the rollyourcar.com page, the corvair page, etc.

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Dude - I love those cars. Do a pic with the hood flipped open. That front hinge on the hood is really cool. Most people don't know about that.

If you've read all 3 threads, and the hot rod article, you should be good to go. Good luck with your rolling!!!

BTW - I suggest that anyone that attempts this process take the time to read all the threads. It takes a long time, but it'll save you a lot of headaches in the long run. The most commonly asked questions have been already answered.

Having said that, this is a unique experience for everyone, based on their specific car and conditions. So ask on.

If I was a jerk (don't ask my wife that question) I would propose a thread that would be a compilation of the stupidest questions one could possibly ask.

#1) Should I use 50 grit?

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I agree that this entire thread is worth reading. Granted a lot of people keep asking the same questions over and over:

-Can I use a clearcoat?
-Why am I getting bubbles?
-What is the "roll and tip" method?
-Can I use metal flakes?
-How much do I thin X color of paint?

etc etc. Most of that was covered in the first thread, methinks.

Thanks for the props on my T Theres a website for 'em actually... http://www.lesabret.com if you want to check out some more pictures or info. They're neat cars and nobody seems to know what they are anymore. I'm about to pick up a second one here in a couple weeks as a project car too.

The flip-forward hood has brought me much joy in confusing younger mechanics when the hood doesn' open like "normal" and basically anybody when I flip the hood open at the gas station. Its also a heck of a lot easier to work on the car that way too.

Anyway, here are more pictures, as requested

Heres a couple of when I was working on it this summer



And random shots:



I have a flowmaster

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Wow.... just.... wow. I've spent the last month or so reading the entire thread, front to back... all 200 or so pages over 3 threads. Plus the Hot Rod Article, the rollyourcar.com page, the corvair page, etc.

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Dude - I love those cars. Do a pic with the hood flipped open. That front hinge on the hood is really cool. Most people don't know about that.

If you've read all 3 threads, and the hot rod article, you should be good to go. Good luck with your rolling!!!

BTW - I suggest that anyone that attempts this process take the time to read all the threads. It takes a long time, but it'll save you a lot of headaches in the long run. The most commonly asked questions have been already answered.

Having said that, this is a unique experience for everyone, based on their specific car and conditions. So ask on.

If I was a jerk (don't ask my wife that question) I would propose a thread that would be a compilation of the stupidest questions one could possibly ask.

#1) Should I use 50 grit?

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I agree that this entire thread is worth reading. Granted a lot of people keep asking the same questions over and over:

-Can I use a clearcoat?
-Why am I getting bubbles?
-What is the "roll and tip" method?
-Can I use metal flakes?
-How much do I thin X color of paint?

etc etc. Most of that was covered in the first thread, methinks.

Thanks for the props on my T Theres a website for 'em actually... http://www.lesabret.com if you want to check out some more pictures or info. They're neat cars and nobody seems to know what they are anymore. I'm about to pick up a second one here in a couple weeks as a project car too.

The flip-forward hood has brought me much joy in confusing younger mechanics when the hood doesn' open like "normal" and basically anybody when I flip the hood open at the gas station. Its also a heck of a lot easier to work on the car that way too.

Anyway, here are more pictures, as requested

Heres a couple of when I was working on it this summer

And random shots:

I have a flowmaster

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I'd have to agree. I think in the attempt to make this process as cheap as possible the primer coat has been ignored. Somewhere in one of these threads there's discussion of roll-on primers, and even a link to an industry press release talking about recommendations for body-shops to roll on primer.

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I have a 91 W250 that I am going to do sometime in February with Rustoleum Navy Blue. I found a birdbath hood and am thinking of painting it a satin black which Rustoleum has. Anyone have any experience with the satin paints. I assume you would still buff after the final coat?

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