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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37794
12/26/07 05:34 PM 12/26/07 05:34 PM

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I'm still trying to learn how to do these posts. This goes with an earlier on that is sent. This is a 67 chevelle that I used the roller method to paint. It turned out great even in gloss black!




4055703-Rearshot60.JPG (539 downloads)
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37795
12/26/07 05:40 PM 12/26/07 05:40 PM

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Quote:

Here are a couple of before shots.

4055715-before75.JPG (633 downloads)
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37796
12/26/07 05:44 PM 12/26/07 05:44 PM

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Quote:

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Here are a couple of before shots.


4055723-before60.JPG (439 downloads)
Last edited by hotrodimpala; 12/26/07 05:48 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37797
12/26/07 05:50 PM 12/26/07 05:50 PM

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Quote:

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Here are a couple of before shots.




4055731-before65.JPG (443 downloads)
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37798
12/27/07 06:01 PM 12/27/07 06:01 PM

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new to links. just started my very first bodywork and paint job on my 73 fastback. will post some pics up tomorrow. as far as i have been reading it seems pretty easy for the rustOleum painting. But has anyone shot it through a non-compressor paint gun? I have one that has some sort of compressor built in, it is still a HVLP fine spray paint gun. . . anyone think that this will NOT work. if so i probably wont even try it. will post pics of my work.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37799
12/28/07 01:01 AM 12/28/07 01:01 AM

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Hello everybody! I just read this article today, and after much grief of worrying about spending thousands of $$$$ for a paint job just to sell a car that is worth as much ...I have caved in and am crazy enough to try this out myself ...

Here's what I have purchased so far ...

At HomeDepot:
Paint Tray for $1.97
Bucket for $4.98 (for water)
KleanStrip Mineral Spirits $5.99
KleanStrip Acetone (to clean and dewax) $5.84
Rustoleum Professional Black Glossy 7779 2 total- $15.74
4",2",1" Foam Brush $1.91
1/4" Nap Purdy WhiteDove 9" roller (seems to be better quality) $4.97
Chem Gloves $3.29
HUSKY 2 MIL 9' x 12' Plastic drop cloth $3.29
1 QT paint stir bucket $0.62
24 Terry cloth towels $2.97 (the register rang this up - supposed to be $7.00)
HomeDepot Total: $55.44 w/ taxes included.

At WalMart:
1/4" Nap Paint Rollers (Rubbermaid good quality) $4.88
Tar/Adhesive/Wax remover $6.26
Goop $2.32
WalMart Total: 14.50

So ....already I have spent more than what some others have already spent and don't even have the sandpaper yet ...but I expect to possibly get some from work ...along with some tape ..hopefully ...
I have 4 days off and plan on doing this then ...I'll update my progress within the week.
Somebody wish me some luck along with a total miracle if I end up coming out with as good of a result as what I have seen posted.

Auto Details:
1994 Isuzu Pickup 2.3L 4ZD1, 60k miles - stock everything, but stereo. Live in LV and plan on getting a safer/more economical ride. (Going to make this truck stick out to bring up the selling price and get what it's truly worth)

:realhappy:
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37800
12/28/07 10:50 AM 12/28/07 10:50 AM

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has anyone ever used a lacquer based primer before. i read somewhere that its not that great to use, expecially for the RustOleum. anyone have any in-put



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37801
12/28/07 03:26 PM 12/28/07 03:26 PM

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1/4" Nap Purdy WhiteDove 9" roller (seems to be better quality) $4.97
1/4" Nap Paint Rollers (Rubbermaid good quality) $4.88




Hold on there...

First of all, you need High density foam rollers - no nap. Smooth, white foam, high density. Rollers with any nap will leave you with a textured finish - the longer the nap, the more the texture. Fine for painting walls and ceilings - for cars, not so much.

2nd of all, the process seems to work best with 4" wide rollers. Some have tried the 6" version, but have reported the extra width to be a detriment to achieving a smooth finish - the extra time working the paint negates the time saved with the extra width. I'd say 9" wide rollers would be even worse.

I would add sandpaper in 600, 800, and 1500 grits, and a rubber foam block (one of those rectangular gardening knee cushions can be cut up for this) for wet sanding in-between every other coat to keep it smooth.

Other than that it looks like you are well stocked for fun...

Last edited by Mike Da Wrench; 12/28/07 05:10 PM.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37802
12/28/07 03:42 PM 12/28/07 03:42 PM

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Quote:

But has anyone shot it through a non-compressor paint gun? I have one that has some sort of compressor built in, it is still a HVLP fine spray paint gun. . .



Yep. CAL96 did an excellent job on an Acura in Dark Green with one. 3 Quarts of hunter green and one quart of black applied with a wagner power painter:






Last edited by Mike Da Wrench; 12/28/07 04:11 PM.
Re: What Yall Think??? #37803
12/28/07 06:06 PM 12/28/07 06:06 PM

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Hello All!! Can some of you that used any variation of Rustoleum Blue or Grey please post a picture of your final product? I've been window shopping and found Royal Blue and Sail Blue, and Charcoal Grey and Smoke Grey. Trying to narrow down my shade of Blue and Grey for a Two tone job on my Chevelle. Thank all you folks, I'm looking forward to starting my process.

Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III #37804
12/28/07 09:32 PM 12/28/07 09:32 PM

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sweet, thats the same paint gun i have. looks like thats what im gonna be doing. now just to finish the sanding job.

Re: What Yall Think??? #37805
12/29/07 12:55 AM 12/29/07 12:55 AM

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Quote:

Hello All!! Can some of you that used any variation of Rustoleum Blue or Grey please post a picture of your final product? I've been window shopping and found Royal Blue and Sail Blue, and Charcoal Grey and Smoke Grey. Trying to narrow down my shade of Blue and Grey for a Two tone job on my Chevelle. Thank all you folks, I'm looking forward to starting my process.



I Used Rustoleum royal blue mixed with a bit of black to deepen in a bit, as it was a bit too blue for my liking. Here's my final product:




Last edited by skylark72; 12/29/07 12:58 AM.
Hello All #37806
12/30/07 02:20 AM 12/30/07 02:20 AM

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Like many others I have been reading the posts for awhile and decided to finally give this a go.

The project is my 1986 Buick T-Type which has some surface rust and really crappy factory paint.

I started by completely dismantling the car and am now part way through using Aircraft Stripper to remove the crappy paint from the hood (done) roof, and trunk. I will be using it in a few other areas that need it but plan on keeping the decent paint as a base. I will feather out the stripped areas into the decent paint areas by sanding. Anyone forsee a problem with this method?

I tried sanding the original paint but 20 years of sun had hardened it to the point of being like diamond. 80 grit on a rotary sander hardly phased it.

I went and purchased some brightside Steel Gray and the Brightside primer. The car was originally a light silver from the factory.

I have a couple of questions for the experts

What sort of metal prep do I need to do before I apply the brightside primer? On the can it says to contact them for instructions on applying it to steel.
I was planning on sanding the surface of the metal to 220 grit and then applying a coat, then sanding that to 400 and applying another coat. This was the suggestion of a friend who is well versed in paint and body. Good idea?

Has anyone used Steel Gray Brightside yet? I'm really curious to see what it would look like on a car. I'm worried that it may just look like shiny primer. Anyone have picts?

and one more q, I have read that mineral spirits used to reduce brightside induces a haze... is that the only negative? I would like to save the 333 I purchased and reduce the primer with mineral spirits instead of the 333 the can recommends.

Thank you all for your help and awesome threads.
Re: Hello All #37807
12/30/07 10:20 AM 12/30/07 10:20 AM

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What sort of metal prep do I need to do before I apply the brightside primer?



Some have used rustoleum as a color coat metal primer as it is designed to be applied directly to metal.

Same overall process applies with rolling and sanding in alternate coats with progressively finer grit. Less than 600 grit is more appropriate to shaping the surface or removing product. 600 grit and up is best for knocking down the high points of fully dry paint.

As for the 333, I don't know if it really matters with the primer.
Re: What Yall Think??? #37808
12/30/07 10:48 AM 12/30/07 10:48 AM

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Thanks skylark72. Was there a particular ratio of mix for the Black in Royal Blue to deepen the color? I'm looking for that color you have or maybe a bit darker. Was the Royal Blue the darkest blue you could find?
-Ted
Re: Hello All #37809
12/30/07 01:13 PM 12/30/07 01:13 PM

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Quote:

Quote:

What sort of metal prep do I need to do before I apply the brightside primer?



Some have used rustoleum as a color coat metal primer as it is designed to be applied directly to metal.

Same overall process applies with rolling and sanding in alternate coats with progressively finer grit. Less than 600 grit is more appropriate to shaping the surface or removing product. 600 grit and up is best for knocking down the high points of fully dry paint.

As for the 333, I don't know if it really matters with the primer.



Well I already purchased the Pre Kote primer. Is it worth it to switch to rustoleum? It would seem that the prekote would work better with the brightside. I'm just pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to prep the metal beforehand. Brightside's tech line isn't open for a few more days I don't think. I really wish they would have printed their directions for steel on the can.

BTW the steel on my car is galvanized.. make any difference?
Re: What Yall Think??? #37810
12/30/07 02:21 PM 12/30/07 02:21 PM

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Quote:

Thanks skylark72. Was there a particular ratio of mix for the Black in Royal Blue to deepen the color? I'm looking for that color you have or maybe a bit darker. Was the Royal Blue the darkest blue you could find?
-Ted



As far as i know, royal blue is the darkest rustoleum goes (that stores carry). I have seen a couple color charts from rustoleum online that had other various colors of blue, but i'm not sure how easy it is to buy those, or where you'd even go to get them tinted. Anyways, the ratio i used was more or less just eye-balling it. I know that doesnt really help you, but even just a LITTLE bit of black drastically changes the blue, so be careful.
do i need to add more thinner? #37811
12/30/07 09:49 PM 12/30/07 09:49 PM

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Hi, im painting my truck with this type of paint, Ace hardware rust stop enamel. Im getting alot of brush strokes in the paint even after it sits and drys, i think its probably too thick, about how much thinner did yall have to put in the paint per can? Im using a foam brush to apply it and i prepped with 320 grit and ive been wetsanding with 800 then doing more coats. i think ill go to a higher grit later but i cant get the brush strokes out.
Re: do i need to add more thinner? #37812
12/31/07 09:22 AM 12/31/07 09:22 AM

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has anyone used a lacquer based primer? wanted to know if anyone has used this or had any problems with it using the RustOleum paint? Or if worst comes to worst should i just use the RustOleum primer? what do you think. . . .
Re: do i need to add more thinner? #37813
12/31/07 12:51 PM 12/31/07 12:51 PM

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You should have no problem using lacquer primer under this paint. Just make sure that you don't apply lacquer based products over an enamel (If you do, it will only take a few seconds to see why.) I have used a lacquer primer as well as rusto primer with no ill effects from either.

Good luck
-Trent
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