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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37714
11/21/07 04:33 AM
11/21/07 04:33 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Alright everybody i have read every damn page lol!  i cant wait to try this! ima do a test piece tomorrow and will have pics in two or three days cant wait dont let this thread die cuz i want input on my pics thanks in advance
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Re: Cold weather!
#37715
11/21/07 09:28 PM
11/21/07 09:28 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Is anyone still using marine topside paint? It seemed like it was successful but nobody seems to mention it lately.
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Re: Cold weather!
#37716
11/22/07 12:50 AM
11/22/07 12:50 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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^ my blue subaru on the last page was using interlux brightside in saphire blue.
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Re: Cold weather!
#37717
11/22/07 01:46 AM
11/22/07 01:46 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Your car looks great! Did you prime it before using the brightside? If so, What kind of primer did you use?
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Re: boat paint
#37718
11/22/07 08:23 AM
11/22/07 08:23 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I used Brightside also. My BMW 2 tone job I only primed bare metal and areas I used filler on. The rest of the car was just DA'd except where the clearcoat was failing, I tried to take all that off down to the base color or primer. Went on like a dream. I sanded between all but one of the subsequent coats as I felt the next coat went on better. I like to give the coats a little something to grab onto, and the 'dull' sanded finish also makes it easier to see where you've painted and where you haven't.
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Re: Cold weather!
#37719
11/22/07 11:17 AM
11/22/07 11:17 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Your car looks great! Did you prime it before using the brightside? If so, What kind of primer did you use?
thanks dude, yes i used primper over bear metal and over body filler. i used interlux Pre-Kote primer. on the rest of the body i just sanded off the clearcoat.
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Re: Cold weather!
#37720
11/22/07 01:32 PM
11/22/07 01:32 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Did some digging around and found a Brightside document that references use at low temperatures, i.e, 5 deg C (40 F). Had not seen any reference to use under 50 deg prior to this. The document is dated 12/06. http://www.cpbsupply.com/paint/pdfs/international_brightside.pdfI'm still using Brightside (Hatteras Off White 1990). I finished my truck in October, there are pix on the list. Today I applied my 4th and final coat to my truck cap (probably last warm day of the year- no garage). Note the 2 pictures of the curved surface on the rear of the truck. I was able to get that finish w/o polishing, no wax (used 800 grit between coats). Can't say the rest of the truck is that good, but this is what you 'can' get if you work with a lot of care. Brightside is great.  Mitch
Last edited by rustinaway; 11/23/07 10:01 PM.
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? about electric sanders and buffers
#37721
11/24/07 11:38 AM
11/24/07 11:38 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Can someone in the know give a little about sanders? I did my last paint job's sanding by hand, thus not so much sanding. This next one I'd like to do a little better. Any advice? I don't want to spend big $ if I don't really have to. I have a little cheap random orbital for woodworking I could use. Thanks for any help.
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Re: paint job on a budget
#37722
11/27/07 10:08 PM
11/27/07 10:08 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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g'day, just wanted to share that i'm giving this poor mans method of painting a go! i'm using an australian paint called white knight rust guard, which is pretty similar except it has some epoxy resins in it as well as alkyd resins. i'm going for an orange with some nice gt stripes in black if i can when i finish the orange! here's the car before i touched her, she looks good from a distance but that paint was full of chips, cracking and major crows feet.  that vinyl roof and chrome strips down the doors had to go, lots of nice rust under them! heres the car all bogged, primed and sanded.  first coat, thinned wayyyyy too much by accident! got lots of bubbles that wouldn't go away and it ran like crazy!  here she is after the second coat, will sand her down smooth and get rid of all those bloody bubbles! 
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Re: paint job on a budget
#37723
11/27/07 10:20 PM
11/27/07 10:20 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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here's a better shot of the second coat, man it looks great in the photo, a lough rougher in reality 
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37724
11/28/07 07:30 PM
11/28/07 07:30 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
MN
tsbrewers
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 20
MN
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Quote:
Can someone in the know give a little about sanders? I did my last paint job's sanding by hand, thus not so much sanding. This next one I'd like to do a little better. Any advice? I don't want to spend big $ if I don't really have to. I have a little cheap random orbital for woodworking I could use. Thanks for any help.
I would pick up a porter cable 7424. use it for sanding, then use it later to buff the paint out.
I will also remind people to try a regular knapped roller if they are getting too many bubbles.
Brew
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
[Re: tsbrewers]
#37725
11/29/07 11:29 AM
11/29/07 11:29 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I will also remind people to try a regular knapped roller if they are getting too many bubbles.
Brew
I was getting tons of bubbles and going back over the section with the roller without applying pressure didn't do much for me. What I did was do a 2 foot by 2 foot section at a time and then went back over it with the foam brush applying no pressure, just dragging it across. Worked perfectly for me.
http://www.knology.net/~guywithalaserbeam/paint.html
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37726
11/29/07 08:34 PM
11/29/07 08:34 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hey all. I hail from the Serious Explorations site. http://www.explorerforum.comThese threads have been an awesome read. It took me a couple months reading on and off at work to get through all of the threads. I don't know much about paint but has anyone thought about trying to roll on Dupli-Color Paint Shop paint? It's a automotive paint line from Dupli-Color but it's single stage made to be a DIY line. It's a lacquer paint so I don't know how well that would work. It's made to dry quickly so I don't know if it could be thinned enough or what you would thin it with to get it to lay smooth and not dry to quickly. If it could be made to work with rolling I think it would probably give great results. Unfortunately I couldn't find much info. about it on their site. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html
Last edited by briwayjones; 11/29/07 08:36 PM.
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37727
11/29/07 08:44 PM
11/29/07 08:44 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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yeah i didnt find the knapped rollers that good, gave a much more irregular surface, just gotta get the mixture right and bubbles aren't a problem
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37728
11/30/07 10:28 PM
11/30/07 10:28 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I don't know much about paint but has anyone thought about trying to roll on Dupli-Color Paint Shop paint?
Judging by the response I'd say not.
With so many choices so far, I don't know why I'd look for another. So far we have Tremclad, Rustoleum, Ace hardware, Tractor Supply, Van Sickle and at least one other in the alkyd enamels. In urethanes we have Petit, Brightside, and Rustoleum.
I think the key has always been to look for what is local and/or cheapest and give it a whirl. The magic has always been in the application of the paint, not the paint itself.
The key is not to thin the paint for the sake of making it thin, but rather to delay the dry time as to allow the paint to self-level. As many have reported, heat and humidity will change the optimum mix ratio as both affect drying time.
Most paint-shop paint is designed to be sprayed on and requires addition of hardeners and such. The beauty of alkyd enamel and monourethane is that they require nothing else to cure properly. For me, anyway, the simplicity of painting a car with just a few common tools and supplies found at any hardware store is what amazes me. No complex formulas, no expensive equipment, no overspray to clean up, no toxic cloud of chemicals wafting downwind, no large pile of money to get reasonable results.
Anyway, If it floats your boat, give the Dupli-color a whirl and let us know how it does. It is always nice to add another alternative to the list.
Last edited by Mike Da Wrench; 11/30/07 10:29 PM.
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37729
12/01/07 05:19 PM
12/01/07 05:19 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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whats up guys, i just registered cause i had a little input on this subject. i have been reading about this all day, and all last night. from a few different sites. and the first site i read said that the mixture of paint and mineral spirits should be about 50/50. and if there are bubbles in the paint, then it is still too thick. i havent done this on my truck yet, but im in the process of getting stuff together to do it. i have a 99 ford lightning. i was maybe gonna take eitehr the gas cap off and do a test on that, or my tail gate. its black now, and im gonna keep it black. can you get this paint from home depot? the rust oleum? and responses are appreciated..thanks
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37730
12/02/07 08:48 AM
12/02/07 08:48 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Inspired by Aussie Driver’s ability to take this painting technique to the next level, I put together a summary document on
1. Porter Cable sanders/polishers
2. Lake Country Pads
3. Poorboys products
4. Polishing How-to
Of course, all of this info is available on the web in various places; I just wanted it in one place so I knew what to buy.
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Ace Paint ? "Color Matching"
#37731
12/02/07 11:14 AM
12/02/07 11:14 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Ace paint "stop rust" tintable Color Matching? Do you think they"Ace" can get it to match B5 blue or get real close to it?  & What do you Thin it with ? & Can you use a HVLP gun"air"?  & can you clear coat it? if so what kind of clear coat? This is for a `70 `Cuda B5 int.&ext.Want to do it cheap.But Don`t want it to LOOK CHEAP!  Thanks, JZ`Cuda
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Re: Ace Paint ? "Color Matching"
#37732
12/02/07 01:13 PM
12/02/07 01:13 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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If you take in a color chip, they'll match it exactly. If you don't have a chip, stroll through a lot of other paint stores with a pic of the b-5 blue and find one that's as near as you can get. Sherwin Williams for example. Then take that in and Ace will match it.
Thin it with Mineral Spirits, odorless. I used the Ace Brand.
I don't know about the HVLP stuff. Sorry.
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Re: ? about electric sanders and buffers
#37733
12/02/07 05:55 PM
12/02/07 05:55 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
whats up guys, i just registered cause i had a little input on this subject. i have been reading about this all day, and all last night. from a few different sites. and the first site i read said that the mixture of paint and mineral spirits should be about 50/50. and if there are bubbles in the paint, then it is still too thick. i havent done this on my truck yet, but im in the process of getting stuff together to do it. i have a 99 ford lightning. i was maybe gonna take eitehr the gas cap off and do a test on that, or my tail gate. its black now, and im gonna keep it black. can you get this paint from home depot? the rust oleum? and responses are appreciated..thanks
no one has any input for me? i just put the first coat on my gas tank cover, and i guess its gonna take a few days to finish that
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