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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Exit1965]
#37454
09/06/07 06:35 PM
09/06/07 06:35 PM
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Anonymous
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Concerning masking for lettering and such (was discussed a few days ago; pictures of a FORD pickup tailgate). I saw an article in Hot Rod many years ago which talked about using a brush-on masking agent.
Can't remember what it was called, but I imagine there are different brands on the market. Idea is to brush it on, let dry (it dries to a thick rubbery film), then cut out areas to receive paint with an X-acto knife.
I haven't tried it myself, but the guys in the article thought it was a lot easier to cut evenly with the knife and created sharper edges than masking tape.
Last edited by Black Mariah; 09/06/07 06:38 PM.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37455
09/06/07 09:56 PM
09/06/07 09:56 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Masking Spray - Something like this? http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001...ler/output_htmlToo bad smallest size order from 3M is 4 gallons, wonder if anyone else has it ... in a rattle would be great.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37456
09/06/07 11:49 PM
09/06/07 11:49 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
_Scott_
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Posts: 44
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It's available in quart cans. Available at automotive paint supply stores who sell Metalflake products. http://www.metalflakecorp.com/I used it on a sign project many years ago, it worked real well.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: _Scott_]
#37457
09/06/07 11:53 PM
09/06/07 11:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,400
Massachusetts
Faust
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,400
Massachusetts
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Quote:
It's available in quart cans. Available at automotive paint supply stores who sell Metalflake products.
http://www.metalflakecorp.com/
I used it on a sign project many years ago, it worked real well.
It is available in rattle cans. I have one in my workshop, but can't remeber the brand name. Think I picked it up in an art supply/craft store.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Faust]
#37458
09/07/07 11:33 AM
09/07/07 11:33 AM
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I've used the brush on masking solution before...it's kind of like a low-stick latex glue. I got mine from an art supplies store.
There's a few caveats...
1. Personally I wouldn't use a spray-on version, as you'd have to reverse-mask everything with tape before you sprayed it, so it won't save you any effort.
2. It doesn't stick too well to glossy surfaces, so you've got to work out how to key the surface somehow.
I had an old '29 Ford with the 'Ford' letters on the tailgate. I painted the whole truck in a cream color, and wanted the Ford script to be white. It worked out FAR easier to paint the whole thing, and then carefully brush-paint the raised letters afterwards with a signwriting enamel (I used One Shot (about $7 a can)), with no masking. You can easily wipe off any over-brush while it's wet, and it gave a perfect result.
The letters aren't big enough to show marks or orange-peel.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37459
09/07/07 05:13 PM
09/07/07 05:13 PM
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Just an update.
My paint still has not arrived (top secret TS-100), but it should be here anyday. In the meantime, I have been gathering supplies and prepping my garage area. I swept it out and lined the ceiling and the walls with plastic. I have a dehumidifier in the painting are so I wont have to worry about humidity. The plan is to lightly mist all the plastic and the floor with water before painting. Hopefully this will eliminate a lot of dust.
Also, I went to the auto body store today to get some filler. The guy working there was very helpful. He said that they have some single stage auto paint (urethane) that could be mixed to almost any color. It was about the same price as the top secret paint (~$30/qt). If the top secret doesnt work out, I'll probably go this route.
One thing I was not sure about. He said that if he were painting my car, he would just wetsand with 600 since the body was pretty slick, then paint. I was under the impression that the paint needed more to "bite" on to. Also, he said that it would not be a problem to apply filler over the paint. Just rough up the problem area with 80 grit, apply filler, etc. Is this ok?
I plan on starting body prep this week. I already have some rocker panel covers prepped. So as soon as I get the paint on those I'll get some pics.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37460
09/07/07 11:12 PM
09/07/07 11:12 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 44
USA
_Scott_
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Quote:
He said that if he were painting my car, he would just wetsand with 600 since the body was pretty slick, then paint. I was under the impression that the paint needed more to "bite" on to. Also, he said that it would not be a problem to apply filler over the paint. Just rough up the problem area with 80 grit, apply filler, etc. Is this ok?
Personally I would not feel comfortable with 600, but would with 400. As for filler over paint, I think 80-grit is too course. I would recommend 150 to 180 (only for small dings of course.) You'll find that it's easier to feather the filler into the paint when you work your way down to the finer grits. You are also less likely to have scratches appear as the paint cures, a year or so down the road.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37461
09/08/07 06:51 AM
09/08/07 06:51 AM
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I'm almost done with my truck - can't wait to show you guys! My dad is so impressed he wants me to do his race car next (a '67 firebird).
If I do his car, I'm thinking of trying the brightside paint. Aside from being able to potentially skip the final wetsand, do all the same rules apply for painting with it? Do you thin it and roll it the exact same way as the rustoleum? Are the applications done the same way as well - I.E. wetsand 400, 2 coats-wetsand 600, 2 more coats-wetsand 800, 2 final coats- finished. ?
Thanks!
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37462
09/08/07 08:15 AM
09/08/07 08:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
patrick
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
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Quote:
Well, I've finished my test piece, the tailgate for my '79 Ford F100 Custom Explorer. All in all, I'm quite satisfied. And additionally, it was one of the most beat up, rusty, and plain difficult pieces on the truck.
As you can tell, my bodywork is poor at best. Even knowing that every scratch would show, and doing what at the time seemed like a good job sanding them out, I am surprised at how bumpy the body is after the paint is on. I'm not particularly worried- the rest of the body is smoother, and the tailgate has too many planes and curves to show too badly. Plus, the white seems to hide the imperfections.
Some people wanted to see lettering/striping, and here's your chance. Letters are difficult. It took a good 90 minutes to tape it off and very carefully cut the curves. Very carefully. It didn't come out perfect, as you can see. They have a rough edge. But from 3 feet away, it's not noticeable unless you're looking for it. I'm thinking that my Explorer striping will actually go better, in that it will be long, straight edges on smooth metal instead of wild curves on stamped letters. I bet it'll be easier to get a smooth line.
Oh, and here's the before: 
do yourself a favor and get some 3M fineline tape to do the initial mask. it's a vinyl tape and leaves a VERY clean edge, and is flexible, so no there's very little cutting/trimming. then just mask with regular painters tape to that.
1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: _Scott_]
#37463
09/08/07 10:50 AM
09/08/07 10:50 AM
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
He said that if he were painting my car, he would just wetsand with 600 since the body was pretty slick, then paint. I was under the impression that the paint needed more to "bite" on to. Also, he said that it would not be a problem to apply filler over the paint. Just rough up the problem area with 80 grit, apply filler, etc. Is this ok?
Personally I would not feel comfortable with 600, but would with 400. As for filler over paint, I think 80-grit is too course. I would recommend 150 to 180 (only for small dings of course.) You'll find that it's easier to feather the filler into the paint when you work your way down to the finer grits. You are also less likely to have scratches appear as the paint cures, a year or so down the road.
I was thinking 400 would be better as well...
As for the filler, I am using it for small dings (i.e. door dings) so I may give 150 a shot.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: patrick]
#37464
09/08/07 12:07 PM
09/08/07 12:07 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
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Quote:
Quote:
Well, I've finished my test piece, the tailgate for my '79 Ford F100 Custom Explorer. All in all, I'm quite satisfied. And additionally, it was one of the most beat up, rusty, and plain difficult pieces on the truck.
Oh, and here's the before:
This is a great example of just how practical the 'el cheapo' paint job is. It gives the chaps with 'cop magnets' the ability to spruce up their ride. And this is especially true with a 'working truck' that has seen its share of bangs, scrapes and rusty scratches over the years
I can't wait to see how the truck transforms once you finish up the rest of the body...
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Marq]
#37465
09/08/07 08:07 PM
09/08/07 08:07 PM
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Anonymous
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great job on that tail gate.
Well to update, I bought one of those Wagner HVLP sprayguns and used it to spray OMNI urethane single stage paint on my Prelude. The wagner is basically a turbocharged hairdryer with a spray device on the end. I cant recommend the Wagner for automotive use. The amount of coverage it does is GREAT, if you got something really big to paint, the wagner will do it FAST. But as far as atomization goes, it doesnt cut it for automotive use. Soemtimes it spits big globs of paint. As a result I have a lot of texture everywhere, but the paint itself looks great, it dried fast and dried SHINY. I can see myself in the paint. Im satisfied with the job I did but in the future I wont use a Wagner to paint a car.
Now that I think about it, if you're going to use a Wagner you probably should go for Brightside cause its made to self level. But whatever the car is shiny and black now and I think anyone that saw it would have to agree its immaculate.
I would post pics but somehow I cant!
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37466
09/08/07 08:19 PM
09/08/07 08:19 PM
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The best thing I like about this is there is nobody on here [now] telling us we shouldn't try this and that its junk or crap for doing this. Keep up the good jobs everybody and the support. Sorry for taking up bandwidth on a non-painting post but I thought i would throw in my  .
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37467
09/08/07 08:40 PM
09/08/07 08:40 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37468
09/09/07 12:54 AM
09/09/07 12:54 AM
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Nice tailgate patrick! Quote:
The Poorboy's SSR2.5 is an awesome swirl remover and if you are careful to keep buffing with it until most of the polish residue had gone then you would probably be able to straight from the SSR2.5 to the EX-P or wax.
Brightside question to anyone who knows the answer...
Is it a requirement to let Brightside dry for longer than 24 hrs before using polishing compound and sealant or can it be done right after the final coat is dry like the rustoleum?
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37469
09/09/07 08:38 AM
09/09/07 08:38 AM
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Quote:
This is slightly off topic, but I have a question about filling dings.
I have some small dents and dings, nothing major. I have never used anf fillers, but I was wondering what would be ideal for filling small dents and dings. As of now, I think I am going to try evercoat rage extreme, and get some evercoat metalglaze for the minor scratces.
Any other recommendations?
Evercoat is good...I've used a lot of RAGE over the years. For smaller spots, I prefer Half-Time though. Once you use a professional grade filler, you won't go back to Bondo...they sand easier and finish sooo much smoother.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37470
09/09/07 02:28 PM
09/09/07 02:28 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Brightside question to anyone who knows the answer...
Is it a requirement to let Brightside dry for longer than 24 hrs before using polishing compound and sealant or can it be done right after the final coat is dry like the rustoleum?
My personal preference with the Brightside was to let it cure for a few months. Once I had the final coat on it looked quite acceptable - not showroom - but quite acceptable for putting some mileage on. After all, my car had been off road while all this painting process was going on. So I wanted to put some miles on the car and have some fun with it.
My theory was that waiting that extra time would do no harm and would ensure that the paint was 100% cured.
I don't know if I would rush within 24 hours of the last coat to move on to the polishing compound stage and sealant.
The paint in theory is still curing at that point. I would say that you might be better off waiting at least 72 hours... or even up to 1 week before going for the final compounding, polishing and waxing.
The next question would revolve around the type of sealant you are going to lay on it. Some 'sealants' might provide too good a protective outer seal. Just imaine this - the paint is still curing ( which basically means the gases are still evaporating out of the paint ). If you slap on an excellent sealing layer over the paint, the escaping gases or vapors from the paint won't have any where to go. They will rise from the paint and get trapped between the paint and the sealant layer. This could cause some separation of adhesion between the sealant layer and the paint.
If by sealant you meant something like a lovely carnuba wax coating or most natural wax coatings, there would not be this 'trapping' problem - because the waxes don't form enough of a seal to keep the escaping gases from the paint trapped.
Some of the automotive polish/waxes use acrylic or other futuristic compounds to seal the painted surface and to give a shine. Its hard to predict how they may react to the escaping gases from the paint. It may discolor them.. it may cause them to lose adhesion. it may result in no problem.
So it is sometimes better to exercise a little patience when you go to proceed to the final finishing stage, just to eliminate problems that might be caused by evaporating gases/vapors from the paint.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Marq]
#37471
09/09/07 05:05 PM
09/09/07 05:05 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hi, first of all, I'd like to say thanks to Charger yehaa69 for this useful bit of Internet...
I leaked down from a tread that started over at HybridZ.org but seems to have died.
After reading trough all of the 3 sections of this tread, I have only two things to say, first, good lord my eyes hurt and second is, I'm heading to home depot right now...
Before I start, I have a few questions to as...
1- Can I use Tremclad aluminum paint???
2- How much should i thin my mixture???
3- Could I use Sico latex wall paint, as they seem to have the best color choice available???
JUST KIDDING!!!!!!
PLEASE people, I've been reading trough the whole thing in order to see if some people have had some huge break trough in therms of technique or materials, but everything there is, is: Can I use this or how much should I thin or wouldn't it be better to spray it...
It seems like the first few who started the whole thing, jumped right in with Charger's instructions and went full out experimenting.
Now, most of the new posts are about people asking to be spoon fed...
Kudos to Marq for being so patient in answering all of the questions OVER & OVER & OVER & OVER again.
I'll try to see what I can do and will post results, as for asking question for when I run into problems, I THINK it's been covered so far...
Please experiment a bit before posting to make this thing a bit lighter for those of us trying to read the whole thing to see how it evolves.
Thank you VERY much to all before me who have rolled up there sleeves and wet there feet to turn this into an awesome alternative for high dollar paint jobs which we don't necessarily need. I just want to drive the car... Not looking for trophies.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Marq]
#37472
09/09/07 05:42 PM
09/09/07 05:42 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#37473
09/09/07 07:47 PM
09/09/07 07:47 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Hello All!! I'm a newbie here but I've spent the last two weeks reading away on this topic. I'm currenty serving in Iraq and should be home soon from my third long tour. I'm anxious to get home and start painting my car. I'm pretty sure I have all the information needed to get my process going.
We all wish you a safe, healthy and timely return to a world where dudes can enjoy playing with their cars instead of worrying about whether the next car on the road is bomb laiden with some fanatic behind the wheel...
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My question is--> Can two tone paint job be done?
Yes... we have seen a number of cars and trucks done here that did two two paint jobs... So yes it is doable...
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What is best procedure (ie. taping, etc)? I'm looking at a blue/grey with red stripe where they meet type of design.
Yeah that is definitely doable. But I will bow out and let some of the two tone 'experienced' lads pipe in to advise you.
Quote:
I originally wanted blue/silver but have noticed on the rusto site that they only have aluminum and its been said here that its not good.
The main problem is that the paints that had metal flakes in them or the metalized plastic flakes in them do not go on evenly and they do not take to wet sanding very well. Although there was a pick up truck here that did succeed to get a metal flake on to his pick up. His was the exception to the rule...
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So a variation of grey it is. Any ideas? I've noticed not too many two tone jobs here.
One of the nicest might have been the 240/260 Z car, where the guy did a red, white and blue ( three tone ! ) with slanted vertical stripes off the front fender and hood. There was a neat Volkswagon bug done with a burgundy maroon & black combination. A few of the pick up trucks have also been decked out nicely with two tones. So there are some folks here that have the hands on experience.
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