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My Inland Empire aluminum D-shaft in the Demon has been in there since 1996. Same 1350 U-joints. 3000+ passes. On the 4th Ring and Pinion 3rd motor, 7th transmission, same driveshaft, just clean it and put it back in. Better knock on some wood.

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that pretty much ends that debate. NEXT

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Wrong! Was his shaft a production leftover Crown Vic shaft??



I didnt feel this thread was a debate about aluminum shafts.

But just thought it was about some leftover Crown Vic Aluminum shafts of Unknown diameter and grade. mike

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heck I thought it was about ET difference between steel and aluminum

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Is this another trick question???

It's not worth ANY ET.......I wouldn't run one unless you're trying to get weight out of the car........

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Any reduction in weight, especially rotating, is worth "something" in ET's, even if it is not easily seen.

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It's as good as peeing in the ocean to raise the tide.........sure it's doing something, but it's way too small to even worry about.........If the car is overweight for a certain class, then it's something to look into........

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Is this another trick question???

It's not worth ANY ET.......I wouldn't run one unless you're trying to get weight out of the car........

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Any reduction in weight, especially rotating, is worth "something" in ET's, even if it is not easily seen.

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It's as good as peeing in the ocean to raise the tide.........sure it's doing something, but it's way too small to even worry about.........If the car is overweight for a certain class, then it's something to look into........

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I bought a MW aluminium driveshaft used, sent it to a race shop to be shortened and after doing a test weld, they said the weld wouldn't take, possibly because it had been heat treated.
Mick

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I bought a MW aluminium driveshaft used, sent it to a race shop to be shortened and after doing a test weld, they said the weld wouldn't take, possibly because it had been heat treated.
Mick

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i just bought a new Mark Williams 3.5 aluminum driveshaft this week, all new 1350 u joints and they told me should see around .0400 from a mild steel shaft.
its 11 lbs lighter than a steel shaft, meaning a lighter rotating mass means faster times.
Russ at mark williams said my 52" aluminum driveshaft will hold up to 7700 rpms at 850 hp no problem. my tranny yoke and pinion end is chemically bonded and not welded and tested.

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Do an accurate back to back to back to back test and post the results........

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true but when your class racing like Myron is evey .01 helps. bracket racing it will make no difference..

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As you know, in class racing he's got to weigh a certain weight.........If he's already at weight, and installs an 11LB lighter driveshaft, he'll have to add 11LBS to his car..........and I guarantee he won't even see .01 gain by going to that, no matter what Professor SuperStockRacer says....."its 11 lbs lighter than a steel shaft, meaning a lighter rotating mass means faster times.".............

Now, like I'd mentioned earlier, if you're overweight, and need to lose the 11LBS, then it's something to think about.........

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My Inland Empire aluminum D-shaft in the Demon has been in there since 1996. Same 1350 U-joints. 3000+ passes. On the 4th Ring and Pinion 3rd motor, 7th transmission, same driveshaft, just clean it and put it back in. Better knock on some wood.

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that pretty much ends that debate. NEXT

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Wrong! Was his shaft a production leftover Crown Vic shaft??



I didnt feel this thread was a debate about aluminum shafts.

But just thought it was about some leftover Crown Vic Aluminum shafts of Unknown diameter and grade. mike

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heck I thought it was about ET difference between steel and aluminum

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Oh yea , I missed that part.

As far as a ET difference.

Any Gain from switchin from a steel to aluminum drive shaft will be Very minimal.

The drive shaft , while being rotational weight gains rpm {slowly] [from a rotational perspective] through the whole timed 1/4 or 1/8 mile event.

With its tight center of rotation, any differences of weight between a aluminum and steel driveshaft of the approximate [same strength] will be in comparison the same as dead weight. IMO mike

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my dakota is so long that I have a 2 piece shaft from the factory, and I HATE it! I think that's my weakest link right now and would love to toss in an aluminum shaft, but everyoen says no go

I don't really care if it ends up being made out of a solid steel rod! but everyone says it's too long and a 1 piece shaft cannot be made for it.

when I swapped in the 4.56s I noticed a driveshaft vibration now too...when the rear axle had 3.21s I would have had to drive 125mph to feel this vibration, but now the 4.56s and tire diameter change, my driveshaft speed is MUCH higher, and I can feel the vibration at 65mph.

what's the longest shaft anyone has ever used?

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BTDT,
First trip to the track in my old LWB 85 D100 w/493 resulted in a tossed stock shaft.
Started calling around all the big name companies looking for a replacement. Once I told them it was for a LWB truck and it would be occasionally raced they said no deal
All sugested a 2pc or carbon.
I wanted a 1pc, name brand shop referred me to Dynatech in MI.
Called them up and they agreed to build me a MMC shaft that was 67.5" long w/1350 Ujoints. They warned me not to exceed the critical speed of 5900rpm(determined by the length), past that and I am on my own. Only ran 1/8th mile after that with that long shaft.
Switched to a SWB 87, had that shaft shortened to 49.5".
I have total confidence in my Dynatech MMC shaft.

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