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2.) Metallic paint. I don't know if anyone has tried a metallic, but the general thought is that the metallic particles will not say suspended properly as they would with spraying. As well, the wet sanding process will either be hindered by the metallic particles and/or grind them down.

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Ahhhh... I think you had better test this all out on some sample. You are introducing too many new variables into the recipe and each of them on their own has proven not to work very well on their own.

The metalic pieces may be small... and that works great with the spray where they are atomized and randomly distributed during the painting. But when you roll.. you are going to find the metal particles concentrating in lines ( that will follow the pattern you rolled the paint on ). The ends of the rollers will leave a slightly greater concentration of metal particles - and hence you will see a pinstriping type effect instead of an even distribution of the particles.

You might as well spray if you are planning to go with that automotive metalic paint. I imagine that any attempt to roll with that paint is going to result in something that is going to have you cursing.

It's a gorgeous color... but the paint and metalic particles is going to prove to be its downfall when rolling and when wetsanding..

Do a sample... but don't do it on the car until you have proven to yourself that it is not going to look like a dogs breakfast

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You'll still need the catylist for the paint as well. That is what makes the paint harden as it dries. If you don't use that, the paint will remain soft and you'll never be able to sand or buff it.

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From what I have read, you just add the catalyst to the paint in the proper amounts when I am ready to spray?

Update:

I sanded a little today, I went out and got a $20 orbital sander/polisher from Big Lots (Hey, it works), here's the results from my first time (total of 2-3 hours sand time today):


As you can see, there is still semblances of red under what I sanded -- from what I understand, someone painted over the old paint perhaps?


Side shot of the same stuff


Bad color but you get the idea


Much better representation.

How far do I go before I stop sanding? When I no longer see the old color? I am using 50 grit right now, should I up that to a finer grit paper? This is my first time sanding anything. Thanks.

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How far do I go before I stop sanding? When I no longer see the old color? I am using 50 grit right now, should I up that to a finer grit paper? This is my first time sanding anything. Thanks.

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Regarding the ACE brand Rust-Stop oil based paint. My local ACE hardware stores have tintable bases and will mix just about any color I would want. I didn't know this before this past week. It would be nice if it was a rebranded Rustoleum, but I wouldn't count on the store workers being able to give correct information.

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Also, how do you mix paint an Mineral Spirits (as in, In what container do you mix it in)?

Thanks, guys!

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That shine is awesome. Great job on the paint.

You did give the paint a few days to dry first, right?

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I just got in the house to give the arms a rest. I just put my 1st coat (by hand) of "Nu Finish" on the vette. The shine is great and you would have never guessed it was painted with a roller.

I havn't buffed it at all. Just put the Nu Finish on over the last coat I put on last night.

I'll let it harden a bit before I do anything with a buffer.

Now I have a long day in front of me to get it put back together.

Here is another picture with 5 coats and the wax:

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Whoa, thats a good shine even with Nu-Finish...

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Probably should have asked before I did it but...

rustoleum + engine bay = ok right? heatwise I mean.. It looks great but I'm slightly nervous about any problems I might have with heat in the future, Its not like I painted inches from the exhaust manifold or anything but still?

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Ever seen how HOT beetle rear aprons and engine bays get? Here's a pic of my engine bay in my 74 beetle, they get really really hot, and under the rear apron is a pair of glass packed muflers that sit about 1/2" away from the metal, and the headers sit the same around the sides and top. Also the paint on this motor (the actual tins; blue paint) was painted at the same time I originally painted the car, it's dupli-color's engine enamel, that paint is AWESOME, it sprays like an air brush out of the can and lasts forever!!! I think you'll have no issues with heat at all, just give it at least a week to cure for the really hot areas.