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ive got it to look not too bad, but when you look at it straight on, into the light thats bouncing off it, it looks preety bad.



maybe part of my problem is the bonnet im using... i have no cluse what it is, it came with the buffer.

what do you mean using water to buff? the instructions i read said to just have the surface dry..

heres my equipment... LOL

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I'm using the exact same buffer, from princess auto, and i'm using the terry cloth bonnets that came with it, and you can buy replacments at canadian tire. The key is buff, buff, buff. How long did you spend on that hood for example? I could spend about 30-45mins on just the hood, lots of polishing coumpound, spray water from a water bottle (use quite a bit of water) and don't push on the buffer, let the buffer's own weight do the work for you, you can push just a bit, but don't stress the buffer by pushing too hard.

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Hey all, I joined here to chat about this DIY paint job ...

...The paint I hope to use (Omni Blue Metallic):

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What happens if I skip the last wetsand at 1500 or 2000 grit, and just use the polishing compound and the wax? Thanks

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I'm using the exact same buffer, from princess auto, and i'm using the terry cloth bonnets that came with it, and you can buy replacments at canadian tire. The key is buff, buff, buff. How long did you spend on that hood for example? I could spend about 30-45mins on just the hood, lots of polishing coumpound, spray water from a water bottle (use quite a bit of water) and don't push on the buffer, let the buffer's own weight do the work for you, you can push just a bit, but don't stress the buffer by pushing too hard.

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thanks for the help. the buffer came with 2 different bonnets... one is a tighter woven one that uses a draw string to hold it on, the other is a tighter woven one that has an elastic to hold it on the buffer. I tired both and nither one stood out as being better for me.

ill try again with water today, and work it for alot longer. I was just using the compound and stopping once it got really dry and hard to work.

yesterday i sanded down the whole car... i figured my expectations would be less if i couldnt compare the buffed parts to the untouched parts (it had to be done this way, i had some dust and orange peel)

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What happens if I skip the last wetsand at 1500 or 2000 grit, and just use the polishing compound and the wax? Thanks

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Refer back to page 18 of this thread... 69Chargeryeehaa didn't wetsand the Beetle's final coat and it looks awesome, even years later. If you use Tremclad/Rustoleum, you can pull this off.

Another option may be to rent a good quality polisher. My local equipment rental guy charges $15 per day.

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Is this standard automotive paint? If so I see a couple issues.
1.) I don't think anyone here has tried that type of paint yet. No one has tested the self-leveling capabilities of such a paint. As well, you would have to make sure it is a single-stage automotive paint (i.e. NOT a base coat + clear coat system). Even with that, unless you add the catalyst (hardener) like you would when spraying, I'm not sure it would cure properly.

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2.) Metallic paint. I don't know if anyone has tried a metallic, but the general thought is that the metallic particles will not say suspended properly as they would with spraying. As well, the wet sanding process will either be hindered by the metallic particles and/or grind them down.

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As long as the paint doesn't run I don't see why the particles would move around, and I don't think wetsanding would be impeded too much given how small these particles are, plus with how many coats I plan on putting on it should cover nicely. I guess I'll find out.

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Ahhhh... I think you had better test this all out on some sample. You are introducing too many new variables into the recipe and each of them on their own has proven not to work very well on their own.

The metalic pieces may be small... and that works great with the spray where they are atomized and randomly distributed during the painting. But when you roll.. you are going to find the metal particles concentrating in lines ( that will follow the pattern you rolled the paint on ). The ends of the rollers will leave a slightly greater concentration of metal particles - and hence you will see a pinstriping type effect instead of an even distribution of the particles.

You might as well spray if you are planning to go with that automotive metalic paint. I imagine that any attempt to roll with that paint is going to result in something that is going to have you cursing.

It's a gorgeous color... but the paint and metalic particles is going to prove to be its downfall when rolling and when wetsanding..

Do a sample... but don't do it on the car until you have proven to yourself that it is not going to look like a dogs breakfast

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Is this standard automotive paint? If so I see a couple issues.
1.) I don't think anyone here has tried that type of paint yet. No one has tested the self-leveling capabilities of such a paint. As well, you would have to make sure it is a single-stage automotive paint (i.e. NOT a base coat + clear coat system). Even with that, unless you add the catalyst (hardener) like you would when spraying, I'm not sure it would cure properly.

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Yes, it is automotive paint. From what I can tell, it's just a single stage without extras (though I do plan on clearcoating it with a spray after the paint is done)

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2.) Metallic paint. I don't know if anyone has tried a metallic, but the general thought is that the metallic particles will not say suspended properly as they would with spraying. As well, the wet sanding process will either be hindered by the metallic particles and/or grind them down.

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As long as the paint doesn't run I don't see why the particles would move around, and I don't think wetsanding would be impeded too much given how small these particles are, plus with how many coats I plan on putting on it should cover nicely. I guess I'll find out.

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Does anyone (Aussie Driver) know if there is anything on the market that is more aggressive than a cutting pad made for a Dual Action polisher such as the Porter Cable 7424?

Meaning do they sell any wool pads made to use on the 7424?

I know they have wool pads for rotary circular polishers, but what about for orbitals?

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