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I couldnt wait any longer to see how it looks polished so i did a quick 2000wetsand/polish/wax... 5 minutes tops for all that and i got this... in the last picture you can see some tiny scratches what would that be from? i did wetsand with 800 before the 2000 so it might just be left over 800 that wasnt sanded out.. (this was just a test to see how it cames out buy the way)

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I don't mean any disrespect but those scratches were caused by you rushing and not using the proper products.

You should never ever ever do any quick sanding. The wet sanding of our paint jobs is critical to getting a perfect finish. You should never need to use 800 on your top coat. Use 1500 at an absolute minimum (although you really would be better off using 2000) and wet sand slowly and carefully. You should also do all of your pre-detailing wet sanding in short straight strokes.

Proper detailing is very different to just polishing. Polish is designed to give a painted surface a depth of shine. After wet sanding you should be trying to remove all of the sanding marks on the paint surface. To do this you will need a cutting compound or a swirl remover. You should also follow a proper 'polishing' technique whereby you apply the product at low speed with a polisher and once it has been worked into the paint, then increasing the polishers speed and working in the product until most of the residue has been buffed away. Then you wipe away the remenants with a cloth.

The pic below shows my hardtop after two passes with Poorboy's SSR3 with a cutting pad, using my random orbital polisher.

If you take your time wet sanding and then use proper products you can get a 'perfect' finish.

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my question is, is there a specific brand roller i should be getting. i see everyone saying something about a 4 inch roller. the ones i saw at walmart were 9" smooth surface foam roller. they were sold individually. i didnt think they were what i needed to i didnt buy any. do i need to go to home depot/lowes to get the right ones? if someone could give me a list of companies/product numbers thatd be great.

thanks.

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what about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SHUR-LINE-3715-FOAM-...VQQcmdZViewItem

or these

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shur-Line-6-Foam-Min...VQQcmdZViewItem

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what about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SHUR-LINE-3715-FOAM-...VQQcmdZViewItem

or these

http://cgi.ebay.com/Shur-Line-6-Foam-Min...VQQcmdZViewItem

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The first one... with the 4" rollers look OK... but I would not use the 6" rollers in the second eBay listing.

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Here is the vette on coat two...

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Is that Brightside or Rustoleum?

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I don't mean any disrespect but those scratches were caused by you rushing and not using the proper products.

You should never ever ever do any quick sanding. The wet sanding of our paint jobs is critical to getting a perfect finish. You should never need to use 800 on your top coat. Use 1500 at an absolute minimum (although you really would be better off using 2000) and wet sand slowly and carefully. You should also do all of your pre-detailing wet sanding in short straight strokes.

Proper detailing is very different to just polishing. Polish is designed to give a painted surface a depth of shine. After wet sanding you should be trying to remove all of the sanding marks on the paint surface. To do this you will need a cutting compound or a swirl remover. You should also follow a proper 'polishing' technique whereby you apply the product at low speed with a polisher and once it has been worked into the paint, then increasing the polishers speed and working in the product until most of the residue has been buffed away. Then you wipe away the remenants with a cloth.

The pic below shows my hardtop after two passes with Poorboy's SSR3 with a cutting pad, using my random orbital polisher.

If you take your time wet sanding and then use proper products you can get a 'perfect' finish.

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Just the man I've been itching to ask. Aussie Driver, can I see a picture of your random orbital?

I just finished Interlux Brightside Black a few days ago. I am researching which machine to purchase. A detailer from a forum said I should buy a rotary polisher, they said they don't think a random orbital can remove all the wetsanding scratches. But I am curious since you have already experienced this perfectly with a random orbital + SSR2.5.

Please let me know what you can suggest or recommend.

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Is that Brightside or Rustoleum?

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This is the Rustoleum you buy at walmart. $7.65 a can. So far, it isn't to hard to put on. I also have a few dust bunnies to work out, but overall, as long as I can get it to harden up, I'll be doing it on a few more toys...

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Just the man I've been itching to ask. Aussie Driver, can I see a picture of your random orbital?

I just finished Interlux Brightside Black a few days ago. I am researching which machine to purchase. A detailer from a forum said I should buy a rotary polisher, they said they don't think a random orbital can remove all the wetsanding scratches. But I am curious since you have already experienced this perfectly with a random orbital + SSR2.5.

Please let me know what you can suggest or recommend.

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There are two types of polisher/buffer that you can purchase. A rotary (as suggested to you from the detailing forum) will do a brilliant job in getting the paint to look like a mirror. But, in inexperienced hands they are potentially dangerous to the paint. I have a rotary and I will only use it occasionally on flat surfaces. I have burned straight through a clear coat, the color coat and the primer on one panel that I was learning on. It was dead easy to wreck.

I much prefer to use my random orbital polisher(s). The ones that I have are a similar spec to a PC 7424 and they will do just as good a job as a rotary. They just take a lot longer to get there.



You can see the polisher in the shot above. It is very similar to a PC 7427 but it is made in Australia. This one is an Ozito brand and it is a copy of my other random orbital polisher which is a Ryobi (The Ryobi is blue and the Ozito is grey and that is about the only difference between them).

Tha pads that you can see in the picture are Wolfgang buffing pads. I'm pretty sure that the same pads are available in the US marketed under the Lake County brand. The yellow pad is a cutting pad, and the orange pad is a light cutting pad. The brown polish is Poorboy's SSR3 (cutting compound) and the purple polish is SSR2.5. That shot was taken after the buffing of the hardtop that is further up the page. It does show how much pick-up there is from the cutting compound/cutting pad.

As to which polisher you should buy, I would recommend the PC 7424 and the Lake County buffing pads. They are expensive but they are up to the job and they also give you the opportunity to re-coup some of your costs. I do a bit of detailing on the side and that only started because of my paintjob on a budget. I have paid for my two random orbital polishers and about half of my products just from detailing other peoples cars.

Once they see the shots of what I have done with a roller paintjob, they get a little misty-eyed thinking about how good their "real" paintjob could look after detailing. It's an easy sell!!

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2.) Windshield or other windows' rubber trim: If not removing the glass and surround, for spraying I've heard of wedging a cord or rope underneath the rubber trim to keep it way from the metal surface. When spraying, this allows some spray to shoot underneath the rubber trim -- so as not to create a hard paint line.

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I don't mean any disrespect but those scratches were caused by you rushing and not using the proper products.

You should never ever ever do any quick sanding. The wet sanding of our paint jobs is critical to getting a perfect finish. You should never need to use 800 on your top coat. Use 1500 at an absolute minimum (although you really would be better off using 2000) and wet sand slowly and carefully. You should also do all of your pre-detailing wet sanding in short straight strokes.

Proper detailing is very different to just polishing. Polish is designed to give a painted surface a depth of shine. After wet sanding you should be trying to remove all of the sanding marks on the paint surface. To do this you will need a cutting compound or a swirl remover. You should also follow a proper 'polishing' technique whereby you apply the product at low speed with a polisher and once it has been worked into the paint, then increasing the polishers speed and working in the product until most of the residue has been buffed away. Then you wipe away the remenants with a cloth.

The pic below shows my hardtop after two passes with Poorboy's SSR3 with a cutting pad, using my random orbital polisher.

If you take your time wet sanding and then use proper products you can get a 'perfect' finish.

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Like I said I did it really quick.. didnt mean to hit it with 800 before 2000 I was dying to mess with polishing it and see how rusto polishes up first hand.. I was going to put 1 or 2 more coats on it but it had quite a base and figured it was thick enough so I tried to just hit it with 2000 from 800.. as for the polish I just used some old 3M Machine Polish I had laying around but yeah I'm definitely going to try and find some SSR3.

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Just the man I've been itching to ask. Aussie Driver, can I see a picture of your random orbital?

I just finished Interlux Brightside Black a few days ago. I am researching which machine to purchase. A detailer from a forum said I should buy a rotary polisher, they said they don't think a random orbital can remove all the wetsanding scratches. But I am curious since you have already experienced this perfectly with a random orbital + SSR2.5.

Please let me know what you can suggest or recommend.

---

There are two types of polisher/buffer that you can purchase. A rotary (as suggested to you from the detailing forum) will do a brilliant job in getting the paint to look like a mirror. But, in inexperienced hands they are potentially dangerous to the paint. I have a rotary and I will only use it occasionally on flat surfaces. I have burned straight through a clear coat, the color coat and the primer on one panel that I was learning on. It was dead easy to wreck.

I much prefer to use my random orbital polisher(s). The ones that I have are a similar spec to a PC 7424 and they will do just as good a job as a rotary. They just take a lot longer to get there.



You can see the polisher in the shot above. It is very similar to a PC 7427 but it is made in Australia. This one is an Ozito brand and it is a copy of my other random orbital polisher which is a Ryobi (The Ryobi is blue and the Ozito is grey and that is about the only difference between them).

Tha pads that you can see in the picture are Wolfgang buffing pads. I'm pretty sure that the same pads are available in the US marketed under the Lake County brand. The yellow pad is a cutting pad, and the orange pad is a light cutting pad. The brown polish is Poorboy's SSR3 (cutting compound) and the purple polish is SSR2.5. That shot was taken after the buffing of the hardtop that is further up the page. It does show how much pick-up there is from the cutting compound/cutting pad.

As to which polisher you should buy, I would recommend the PC 7424 and the Lake County buffing pads. They are expensive but they are up to the job and they also give you the opportunity to re-coup some of your costs. I do a bit of detailing on the side and that only started because of my paintjob on a budget. I have paid for my two random orbital polishers and about half of my products just from detailing other peoples cars.

Once they see the shots of what I have done with a roller paintjob, they get a little misty-eyed thinking about how good their "real" paintjob could look after detailing. It's an easy sell!!

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