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very nice work 93civic. fyi, I have wetsanded and polished my brightside paint only 1 day after rolling it on, without problems. I used both my rotary and DA PC polisher without problems. Even used a yellow LC cutting pad with the rotary, without messing up the paint. Brightside does dry pretty quick (dries to the touch in about 4 hours here in Hawaii). Even with time, however, it dries nowhere near as hard as other paints. The lacquer paint on my friends' cars are like 4X harder than this paint. My spoiler has had brightside on it for almost 40 days, and it is still fairly soft. I was thinking of adding some Japan Dryer to the brightside paint to quicken the drying, since it's available at Home Depot. Also, despite the added teflon in the paint, I find it difficult to clean (especially dried water spots) the surface.

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Rustoleum roller here. After putting my first coat on too thick by the guidelines established here, I'm starting to wonder if it might be the right way to do it after all. I wetsanded it down to get the peel out and broke through to primer in a number of areas but was left with a decent coat of black paint.

Last night I did a layer of "properly" thinned paint and while it did lay down with absolutely no peel at all, I'm left wondering about something. There is quite a lot of "stuff" in the paint: dust, fibers, cottonwood lint... I really don't see myself painting a second coat over that junk as prescribed by the method, yet I'm afraid that sanding it enough to remove the stuff will just take my whole layer off, since it's so thin. I'm tempted to just go back to thicker coats and peel sanding. Any opinions on this matter?

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I couldnt wait any longer to see how it looks polished so i did a quick 2000wetsand/polish/wax... 5 minutes tops for all that and i got this... in the last picture you can see some tiny scratches what would that be from? i did wetsand with 800 before the 2000 so it might just be left over 800 that wasnt sanded out.. (this was just a test to see how it cames out buy the way)

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I got done painting the car and reassembled. It needs a bit of wet sanding to get out a few brush marks and also some orange peel. Then polishing time

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The saphire blue is definitely better then the smurf blue. The smurf blue might work well on a large bodied car... like the size of a Satelite Sebring or maybe even a Road Runner... but on the mid-size cars the smurf blue doesn't flatter it.

But I like personally like the look of the blue in the first picture where it looked darker better then more lighted pictures ( which is what I think the Saphire looks more accurately like.

I suspect that the flag blue would have given you that darker more mysterious blue color.

One cool thing as usual... is that if you move to the flag blue... you are probably witin just two coats to get there. Gotta love this roller painting just for the opportunity it gives us to jump from one color to another over a weekend or two But the Saphire does look great...


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I couldnt wait any longer to see how it looks polished so i did a quick 2000wetsand/polish/wax... 5 minutes tops for all that and i got this... in the last picture you can see some tiny scratches what would that be from? i did wetsand with 800 before the 2000 so it might just be left over 800 that wasnt sanded out.. (this was just a test to see how it cames out buy the way)

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Tiny scratches... odd that they would not have been worked out during the polishing stage.

My thought would be to ask what brand of wax did you use ? ( It might be something as simple as trying a different brand ). For myself, I tried the Turtle Ice originally.. and the standard Turtle Wax... but in the end I fell in love with the McGuiars Pure Carnuba ( with the lovely banana scent ).

The other factor might be something as simple as the type of polishing rag you were using to apply and get the initial buffing up of the wax. I was using one of those 'Bag-O-Rags' that have something like 10 different types of cloth rags in them. I would use the more tee-shirtish type rages for applying the wax ( or a sponge - which isn't always the wisest )... but for the buffing of shining I would use the cloths that were more like pjama flannel or fleece. The key being that I was using my softer cloths for the final shining up of the wax.

At one point I got lazy and I would simply fold the flannel cloth in two, with the softer side face down on the wax - and then I would using my Porter Cable with the sponge on it to spin the flannel rag... to sort of simulate a 'bionic man' buffing the wax ( a couple hundred spins a minute compared to a manual 20 or 30 spins by hand ).

I know that some of those 'woolish' type polishing mitts or cloths can scar up the paint or wax.... and give the kind of markings you see in your pictures. If you have 'woolie' type polishing mitt.... ditch it

I haven't personally used a microfiber cloth to buff and shine - but some of the lads have reported surprisingly good results using them.

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my question is, is there a specific brand roller i should be getting. i see everyone saying something about a 4 inch roller. the ones i saw at walmart were 9" smooth surface foam roller. they were sold individually. i didnt think they were what i needed to i didnt buy any. do i need to go to home depot/lowes to get the right ones? if someone could give me a list of companies/product numbers thatd be great.

thanks.

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those are what im using...

right = home depot
left = lowes- i had to go back to lowes and buy a stupid roller handle because those rollers didnt fit on the one i got from home depot. (just so you know)