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I only have 2000 grit on me since Im a cheapo. But I do have 320 grit, so I guess I will be alternating a bit then. Sand longer with 320 and sand less with 2000 grit, hopefully that will put me in between.

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I only have 2000 grit on me since Im a cheapo. But I do have 320 grit, so I guess I will be alternating a bit then. Sand longer with 320 and sand less with 2000 grit, hopefully that will put me in between.

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Dude - 320 might take off the entire coat (or more) that you just did. Spend $5 and buy five sheets of 600 or 800.

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A note on compressors:

This maybe stating the obvious, but make sure there is no moisture in the lines, you can imagine the havoc that would cause on fresh paint

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Marq:

Should I use the interlux 333 brush liquid to thin down the brightside prior to spraying? or would mineral spirits be just fine?

thanks!

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What kind of foam brush are you using BTW? Simple generic kinds?

I am using this foam roller...I saw someone else use it so I think it should be okay?

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What kind of foam brush are you using BTW? Simple generic kinds?

I am using this foam roller...I saw someone else use it so I think it should be okay?

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At various points during my painting I also made use of a simple foam brush for doing the bubble popping sweep.

At Home Depot and Walmart they sell these grab bags of cheap foam 'paint brushes' They look like a dowl stuffed into a piece of black foam, that is shaped like a paint brush. They had 3/4 inch, 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch foam brushes all packed in these assortment bags.

I used the 3 inch and 4 inch to do the bubble popping... because they did a better, less lines or streaks, then a bristol brush.

BUT I stuck with my high density foam roller to lay the initial coats - and then followed it up almost immediately with the foam 'paint brush' to do the bubble popping and quick surface leveling.

Later I also did the two high density foam roller trick when I ran out of the cheap foam 'paint brushes'...

One handy thing about those cheap foam 'brushes' is that I was able to poke and prod them into some spots where the roller could not go. I would hit those crevices first with the appropriately size foam brush.. and then smooth out the edges with the roller. I hope that makes sense... use the foamies to paint any hard to reach spots on a panel... then proceed with your rollering of the rest of that surface second - in order to blend in the paint between the edges of the crevices and the rest of the panel.

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What kind of foam brush are you using BTW? Simple generic kinds?

I am using this foam roller...I saw someone else use it so I think it should be okay?

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those are the EXACT ones i used!!!

my stuff:



foam brush i used, 25 package for $3.99 on sale:

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Yup! Whole deck lid done with a brush. The biggest differences I found were: with pressure, the brush didn't produce the bubbles, and 2nd, the brush didn't require any pressure vs the roller to get an evenly spread coat.

Could be I just don't have the roller technique down, but I am definitely sticking with the brush.

This is the one I used:

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Well... heed my advice about watching out for those foam brushes to start disintegrating after prolonged contact with paint reduced with mineral spirits or 333 thinner.

Underneath the foam is a small sheet of plastic, which is attached to the wooden shaft. The foam is enveloped over the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet gives a 'bit' of rigidity to the foam brush.

The mineral spirit will first separate the glue that holds the foam to that piece of plastic. That is the first hint that the foam brush is nearing the end of its life.

The next sign will be when you start noticing strange unexplainable black 'stuff' in your paint. That will be when the foam itself is starting to disintegrate.

Switch to a new brush at that point

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Thanks much DartGT and Marq =)

I have everything set- car is completely sanded... just waiting for the rain to stop...

My camera died on the first shot- it's charging now...

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Well... don't forget our 'enviromental' hints about humidity. It might be worthwhile to wait a day or two extra after the rain - so that the air is not loaded up with humidity.

When I was doing my car.. it started raining when I was preparing to add the final coat of paint. Even though I was painting inside the garage ( protected )... I ended up delaying that final coat for several days after that last rainstorm. And the funny thing is that it rained for almost 7 days... so in total I had to wait almost ten days to get that final coat of paint on.

Now.... I may have been overcautious.. but I did not want anything affecting how that coat of paint turned out. And it certainly was testing my patience to keep delaying the painting.. but I did not want to give in to that impatience and botch up the paint job.

Timing of the painting is essential to obtaining an optimal paint job

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