ya i think they are just held on by glue, hair dryer it is!

Update:

Little over 3 months since I rolled the last coat, finaly had a good enough break rain we've had off and ever since. I took the oportunity to give the truck a good wash and new coat of wax. Still makes me smile to look at it knowing I did it with a roller

Anyone who wishes to BS the process is either :

a ) works at a paint shop ( obvious vested interest and a hidden agenda behind their comments ) or...

b ) someone who has tons more money than most of us and who thinks nothing of tossing $2000 to $5000 at a paint shop to do the work for them.


These are the same type of people who say you can't solder two pieces of copper pipe together unless you're a union plumber. Baloney.

You might not want to paint a concours muscle car with a roller (although some of the results look darned close) but as others have already said, if you want to get decent looking paint job on the car so you can drive it, get rolling. Let the naysaying showboaters keep walking....

That truck looks great!

What about blocking though? Does the multiple coats get rid of hi/lo issues that would be left to work with traditional build primer anyway? I'm concerned that one should be a lot more confident in the body work before laying this paint down, but, it's difficult to see the issues until you get a full coat on (which in this case is a few coats into the effort it seems).

As this stuff is performing the direct to metal job and eliminating epoxy or etch and build primer underneath, has anyone used a build primer in between coats to perfect things? Is this possible? I would think it would be easier to perfect things with improved "sandability". That's my main concern right there actually... I've not found this stuff to sand all that well. Am I not letting it dry long enough? Too thick?

I'm really still leaning towards spraying thin coats vs rolling and relying on the paint more for it's simplicity (no primer etc.), inexpensiveness, and workability rather than errr... rollability

Sorry for rambling...

Largo blue request:

http://novaslp.net/pics/car/img_0440.jpg

It's really light though it looks darker then it is in that picture...

The real light part in this picture is what it really looks like.
http://novaslp.net/pics/car/img_0431.jpg

I have sapphire blue on the mirrors and I'm rolling it later this weekend on the whole car. I'll take pictures as soon as I can for you. It's a really pretty deep blue color.

FYI I disassembled the car and the paint was fine under everything but the spoiler. When I took the spoiler up it had little blisters in... I popped them and it seemed like air underneath? I'm thinking that I just put the spoiler on way too soon and maybe the last coat of paint wasn't fully cured yet. Either way no rust or anything.

Wet-sanding 400 grit the entire car takes forever! I had so much peel the last time.

I'm a regular over earlycj5.com, and one of the guys over there painted his Jeep CJ with Rustoleum spray cans, and Rustoleum clear (rattle can). It came out really nice...
Check it out:
Here's the thread.
http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42745

Here's the finished product:



It came out great, but man you need a lot of rattle cans.

A few months ago I lucked on to a '65 CJ5 with only 20,650 orig. miles. It had been sitting for 12 years while the orig. owner's grandson served in the Marines so after a major brake overhaul and new fluids I got it back on the road. Trouble was the grandson sprayed black and grey primer over the orig. paint to hold back the surface rust. After spending so much to get it road worthy I couldn't justify $3500 for a paint job. You know the rest of the story. Major thanks to 69chargeryeehaa! Here are some before, during, and after pics.

That was the finished pic. Here's a during.

And a before.

I used less than one qt. of Rustoleum Stops Rust Canvas white thinned 40%, 4 high density foam rollers, a little bit of sand paper, and about a third of a gal. of Ace 100% mineral spirits. Bought a Ryobi 6" buffer from Home Depot for $20 and a tin of Turtle polishing compound that I haven't used yet! It's already shiny enough for an old Jeep. Man, I'm stoked. Now looking for a mid 60s Valiant coupe to continue the fun.

Love the LUV!

My son has an '80 2wd LUV that's a real piece of ... uh ... work. It saw horrendous abuse and neglect from previous owners. The body is shot - huge rustouts, mega dents, nasty. Even Rustoleum won't help!

It's good to see one looking as good as yours!

Hi, I am new to the board and was linked to this thread specifically from a bicycling message board. I've become interested in painting a nice bicycle frame that I have on the cheap and this method sounds like it will fit the bill, I just have a couple of questions:

1) Do I take all the paint off of the bicycle frame so it is bare metal showing and then prime it? Or would it be better to just sand it down a fair bit and leave some of the old paint for the new paint to cling on to?

2) If I want a glossy black or orange, what would be the best mix of mineral spirits to Tremclad to use?

Thanks guys, this thread is fascinating!

Toolbox, It's a 1965 3-spd and thanks. I like it a lot. It does have locking hubs/full floating conversion in back and let me tell you it was a bear getting the right axle seals and inner bearing/hub seals. I can't say enough good things about the local NAPA parts store and one guy in particular who welcomed the challenge.