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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36454
05/25/07 01:10 AM
05/25/07 01:10 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hello folks! Hopefully it is not a problem having a member with a Civic here. I am 19 years old, College student up north in Canada and I don't have much $$$. I am contemplating doing the $50 paintjob very soon. I have the summer off...Working in between in the future. Anyway just wanted to say hi. The car is black and has been repainted. Parts have been dulled and other parts have clear coat failure so this will look wayy better. I plan to use Marine Topside paint because I have heard issues of fading from Rustoleum/Tremclad. Marine paint has UV protection which is an added benefit. Wish me luck! I'm probably gonna try it.  - Michael
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: _Scott_]
#36455
05/25/07 01:19 AM
05/25/07 01:19 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
And just to toss my $0.02USD in, a satin or even flat finish works on an old* rat rod, but doesn't work on a Civic for example. Not to say that it can't, just that I haven't seen anyone really pull it off yet.
* where old means ~40 or more years old.
id have to disagree, theres been many "modern" cars done in satin that look great. the skunk2 racing 2006 civic drag car is satin black and looks crazy.. also i did my 93 civic in satin and i was very pleased with it and i constantly get praise for it. but to go with a satin or flat, IMO the car gotta have balls. its just kinda what that type of paintjob represents lol.. anyway heres my old civic i rattle canned almost 2 years ago
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III
[Re: GMP440]
#36457
05/25/07 10:17 AM
05/25/07 10:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
Has anyone done any tests on the Temclad and Rustoleum paints to see how they hold up to spilled fuel and other chemicals?
i can tell you from real expirence that i have spilt just about everything on my paint over the last 7yrs, gas, brake fluid, tranny fluid (don't ask  ) and i have yet to stain/damage the paint in any way. Once i was filling up at the gas station, and it was a really hot day (about 110*F) retarded hot in the sun, as the tank came full, for some reason the pump would'nt shut off, and i sprayed my entire car (hood, fenders, door, everything) pulling out the nozzle and throwing it on the ground where it continued to spray. I used the window washer squeege at the station to get most of the gas off the car, and when i got home (about 3 hours later) washed the car. Paint was still perfect. I also painted a motorcycle (old kawi) about 15yrs ago with black tremclad, and have allways spilt gas on the tank for the last 15yrs and the paint.....you guessed it looks great.
Here's the first car i painted with the "roller", my now wife actually came up with the idea, i was at my dad's cottage and he had a can of tremclad gloss black, and some sponge rollers in the garage, he was painting the 2-door on the cottage. So i pulled my 1985 Honda CRX into the garage, scuffed the paint with 400, and my wife was painting the inside of the doors while i was rollering the body. The old paint was horrible, scratched, and very faded. Well in 1 DAY we painted the CRX, these are the only pics i have of the car that i scanned, enjoy!!!!
i drove that car for 3 yrs, and over 300000kms!!! while going to school in NOrth Bay, Ontario, Canada!!!! If any of you don't know where North Bay is, let me tell you it SNOWS like crazy up there, there was times that i did'nt see my car for weeks because it was under snow!!!. 
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: _Scott_]
#36458
05/25/07 10:35 AM
05/25/07 10:35 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!
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I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
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Quote:
I recommend that if the car looks better with a gloss finish, do a gloss finish. If your inadequate body work skills show through, then hone those skills. Don't settle for a finish you don't really want just to try to hide imperfections, because as I said, to the trained eye they will show through anyway and to the untrained eye they would go unnoticed regardless of the gloss/satin finish.
And just to toss my $0.02USD in, a satin or even flat finish works on an old* rat rod, but doesn't work on a Civic for example. Not to say that it can't, just that I haven't seen anyone really pull it off yet.
* where old means ~40 or more years old.
It was more the effort involved with gloss that was holding me back. (I'm cheap AND lazy). I figured that satin hiding imperfections would just be a bonus.
Although, when I bought the car my intent was to just shoot it with primer, since I couldn't afford $5k+ for a paint job. After finding this thread I was able to re-think that, but I was kind of liking the mean/evil black primer look.
I suppose that's all subjective. I think the satin 69 mach1 looks great. And I'm STILL peeved at Quinten Tarantino for stealing my black primer idea for his Death Proof car.
I just have to hope that primered Chargers don't become the "Dukes" cars of the new mellinium (with all the disdain that would be associated with it).
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Gusteve]
#36459
05/25/07 11:42 AM
05/25/07 11:42 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Found this thread through the latest Hot Rod magazine. Can't wait to roll satin black on my '65 Fairlane. Is wet sanding recommended between coats with the satin? I know that info is probably here somewhere but I couldn't find it. Steve C., were we neighbors once upon a time? Check my profile.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36460
05/25/07 12:00 PM
05/25/07 12:00 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!
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I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
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Quote:
Found this thread through the latest Hot Rod magazine. Can't wait to roll satin black on my '65 Fairlane. Is wet sanding recommended between coats with the satin? I know that info is probably here somewhere but I couldn't find it. Steve C., were we neighbors once upon a time? Check my profile.
gfeighny is the member that did the satin on his 69 'stang. He said this in a previoous post:
Quote:
"No, I did not wet sand, Just layed down 2 thin coats. In places where I had roller marks, I just kept going back over it until the marks blended out. I used the low odor mineral spirits which dry alot slower so you can re-work the whole car for like 15 minutes, using medium-thin paint.
As an aside, I have touched up a few spots on the edges with spray can satin and it blends right in with the rolled satin. "
Not sure if we were neighbors, although I used to live on Corunna Rd near Seymore - just south of Flushing (that was about 15 years ago).
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36461
05/25/07 12:10 PM
05/25/07 12:10 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I mixed and sprayed a flat finish on a '68 Newport and I dry-sanded/scuffed with 800 between coats.
On a fender skirt I experimented with wetsanding between coats and it made no difference at all over dry sanding.
When it's all finished, you can wetsand it until it's at whatever gloss/flatness you like - again, I experimented and found that wetsand with 1200 then 2000, then a rubbing compound actually made a flat finish into a gloss finish.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36462
05/25/07 12:52 PM
05/25/07 12:52 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!
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I Love the Unicorn Song!!
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,660
Flint, MI
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Quote:
When it's all finished, you can wetsand it until it's at whatever gloss/flatness you like - again, I experimented and found that wetsand with 1200 then 2000, then a rubbing compound actually made a flat finish into a gloss finish.
Now that is extremely interesting. I've been wondering about that.
The entire roll-on process could be streamlined if you could just lay down a few coats of satin with no wetsanding, and even minimal dry sanding between coats. If you can take the finished satin and then just buff it out to a gloss you'd eliminate a LOT of work.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36463
05/25/07 12:55 PM
05/25/07 12:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
I mixed and sprayed a flat finish on a '68 Newport and I dry-sanded/scuffed with 800 between coats.
On a fender skirt I experimented with wetsanding between coats and it made no difference at all over dry sanding.
When it's all finished, you can wetsand it until it's at whatever gloss/flatness you like - again, I experimented and found that wetsand with 1200 then 2000, then a rubbing compound actually made a flat finish into a gloss finish.
wetsanding does produce a smoother finish between coats and the final wetsand just due to keeping the sand paper cleaner. But the biggest benifit to wetsanding is reducing the amount of airborne dust in your painting area. Once the garage door closes for me after a real good cleaning, the door does not open until it's done to avoid as much dirt/dust/hair as possible, that will allways be your biggest battle regardless of how or what method you choose to paint with.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#36464
05/25/07 06:07 PM
05/25/07 06:07 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Just read the latest Hot Rod magazine. seems they finaly caught wind of Martin's baby and all the success rollers from this forum have had. They decided to do several pages on it, even made the cover  However; they failed to mention the thread "much" and failed to give credit to Martin... at all. Personaly, I think that blows, I realize they have deadlines and editors etc, but come on! They did claim in the article, they decided to try the project after reading the whole thread. Seems if they had, they would have known exactly who to thank for it. I took the liberty to email them hotrod@primedia.com and let them know. My paint has held up great, through months of rain, small hail storm and driving the cab through and under a mesquite tree or 2. You da man Martin!! Thanks again JFisher
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36465
05/25/07 07:25 PM
05/25/07 07:25 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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I've now read the entire thread and I'm ready to give it a go on my 79 MGB roadster. After hearing about many people's problems with bubbles I was wondering if anyone ever tried a paint pad? You know those styrofoam pads with the fine bristles. They also make a smaller version with little wheels for cutting in around doors and windows. It seems to me the very nature of a foam roller will give you bubbles since it is really just a series of small open cells. Each open cell is a potential bubble-maker. The fine bristels on a paint pad won't do that as much. They hold a tremendous amount of paint too. Just wondering since just about everthing else has been tried relating to this process. Keep rolling.
Jim
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36466
05/25/07 09:53 PM
05/25/07 09:53 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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hey guys, This thread is a lifesaver..I was dreading the thought of having to shell out some big $$$ to get both my rigs painted and this thread has been a big help to me as far as getting my projects moving. One problem Im having right now is with mineral spirits and Primer. If I try to wipe down the dust, The primer softens up. the primer is rattle can stuff meant for automotive touch up couple different brands though, mostly dupli-color, but also some of the generic stuff. I'm using wallyworld odorless mineral spirits. My thoughts on this are, if I thin my paint with the same stuff..won't the paint soften the primer to the point that it will lift? Any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance !
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36467
05/25/07 11:50 PM
05/25/07 11:50 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Dunno much about the softening primer, but if you are using Rustoleum and you still have the "old" paint on your car you don't need to use primer except over the repair spots, may even be easier to paint over the repairs with Rustoleum rattle can of similar color. I have used Duplicolor primer and another brand od self etching primer and did not have good luck with paint sticking to it.
Could be you need to let the primer cure for a week or so fisrt.
If painting over old paint, just rough it up with about 400-600 sandpaper. And roll away.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
[Re: Faust]
#36471
05/26/07 10:33 AM
05/26/07 10:33 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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You can work most of those lines out. Honestly if you are getting them, alot, it probably indicates you fumbled in your mixing.
If you take the time to put on more coats than you think you need, or have the patience to do, just about anything can be fixed in the final color sand and buffing stage.
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Re: New Paint job on a budget thread.
#36472
05/26/07 01:09 PM
05/26/07 01:09 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
You can work most of those lines out. Honestly if you are getting them, alot, it probably indicates you fumbled in your mixing.
If you take the time to put on more coats than you think you need, or have the patience to do, just about anything can be fixed in the final color sand and buffing stage.
I gotta agree. If lines are happening... then it is usually because too much paint is being applied per coating. The concept that people MUST get into their head when they do the roller method is to NOT EXPECT INSTANT COVERAGE.
The whole process requires a slow build up of THIN ( almost transparent ) layers of paint.
It is more like tinting the car at each coating rather than 'painting'. The thing is that each time you add another thin translucent layer, it doubles the shade of the 'tint'.
By the time you hit four or five layers the accumulation of these thin translucent layers then begins to add up and become 'coverage'. In some cases you may not hit that coverage stage for 6 to 8 layers of thin coatings depending on the color you are using.
I think this is the most important concept people have to understand and appreciate during their painting process.
The Brightside paint will reduce the number of coatings you need to reach this 'coverage' stage, but that is because their paint has more 'solid' pigments in the paint then say the Tremclad/Rustoleum. But even with Brightside you need to go through the accumulation of tinted layers to get the best possible result.
So don't be in a rush. Don't expect to paint the car like you would a wall in your house ( where routinely you would nail a wall in one or two coats ).
The thinner the layer that you lay down each coating is what you must strive for when rolling. It may take longer to complete the paint job... but the results will be superior and possible problems will be far less by doing the slow buildup of thin layers.
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