I know if you talk to any sells person for any of these oils "theirs is the best" I am running royal purple in the road runner. In the motor, trans and rearend. I am debating changing because I can't seem to get leaks to stop. BUT I guess the leaks my be in normal places that I have had on other mopars. I have a small rear main leak and now the dana 60 is leaking again, but this time around the gasket housing and not the pinion seal.

I have been debating going to the brad penn, but I cant get it locally which is, but isnt a big deal. I dont mind ordering on line, but lets say your out and need a quart

Just about every store around where I live sells royal purple and the Lucas oils so conveince is good even though I buy the royal purple on line to save money.


I talked to the Brad Penn reps at the good guys show in Indy looked at their product, but didnt buy any because I changed the road runners oil once a year and had just done it two days ago. They had cases of whatever weight you wanted for $55, that is half the price of royal purple. The guy was very honest and said "you will make more horsepower with royal purple, but will gain longevity with our product you be the judge of whats better for you"


Do you think that buy changing back from synthetic will help stop the small leaks issues or man up and just realize it is just typical old mopar.

Brad Penn, but I'm a dealer so what do I know?

We are die-hard Mobile-1 users but a few years ago we were given some Royal Purple and it has worked just as good.Chaz and Pap swear that their pressure is higher and more solid with the Royal Purple.

I have heard of the same thing with using synthetic they always leak

I use Brad Penn 20/50 race oil and Amsoil in the trans. The trans doesn't leak but my valve cover gaskets do..

Why do you guys use all that high buck syntetic? Whats wrong with regular oil, have you had oil related failures with the dino stuff?


I've had good luck with Kendall GT. I can afford to change it quite frequently because it is relatively cheap.

I would tend to agree with BG on the pressure with Royal Purple, my 340 runs 60psi at 3000rpm cruising. I have used it for a few years now, change it one time in the spring and have had no issues and the old oil doesnt look to bad. Im sure if I sent out a sample I would get some realistic results. I use 10w 40. I dont like the price though

Another vote for Brad Penn here. I have been very hapy with it in the race car and the Harley.

I will have BRAD PENN for sale at all the Chrysler Classic Events. 20W 50 $50.00 per case.
See me at the track or pm me here.
Whats up...J&J
Thanks, Ralph

What about Klotz? Not sure if I've ever heard anyone on here using it.

I used to get free cases as my grandfather was great friends with Mr. Klotz. Red stuff smelled like candy..

This past weekend I drove the road runner back and forth to the track for the goodguys in Indy. 56 miles one way and probably 45 miles of it were interstate. At 2600 rpm's we were running 60 mph and holding a constant 75 psi on the oil pressure. I did also notice the increase as stated above when I convereted to the royal purple.

What brand of gear oil are most people running?

Brad Penn here also. Kendall GT when it was green before that. Always run it in my street cars before it was like gold.
I am running Valvoline durablend gear oil in the racecar. Beep

I used to be a diehard Kendall guy until they sold the refinery. I bounced around between Valvoline VR1 20-50 and a few others and was not happy...The oil I was going to settle with (I don't like to settle with anything I'm not 100% with) is the Penzoil 25-50 race oil...Then I found out about Brad Penn...They are pumping oil from the old Kendall well...Now I've happily been using Brad Penn

Brad Penn 10W30, Gulf( Brad Penn) Type F Trans oil and Redline Synthetic Gear oil.

I'm not a fan of the oils that use a high moly content (Royal Purple, Redline, and some others) because the additives that are required to keep the moly from "eating" the bearings don't last as long as the moly does. This may be more of an issue for street use. Some of the brands that don't have moly are Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1 and Amsoil.

My Challenger currently has Brad Penn 20w50 in it, along w/ Redline "Race" (Type F) ATF in the trans and Redline 80w90 gear oil in the diff. However, when it's time to change the Brad Penn, I'm switching to Amsoil Series 2000 20w50.