I'm starting from scratch. Using a Magnafuel pump, 4 wheel disc brakes, and a Painless race wiring panel/harness.

I would like to see your setups to get an idea of how you routed your stuff.

The more pics the better! Photos from this site have been VERY valuable to my build up to this point.

Thanks!!

Thanks your wiring thread is very helpful!

Make sure and use relays wherever there is a high amp load like the fuel pump, electeic fan and so on. Also make sure and use a adequate size wire gauge for the load, put the relays as close to the unit it is feeding current to. Fuse any circuit that you think needs it, insulate all wires near sharp or hot objects

My old Duster.

Mike Gray

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those are all on Joes car ..

Airpushbuttons

My trunk area ..

I made a spot for all my fuel lines to run , I also have a return line ..pita

Thru the rockers, under the fenders

underneath

If you haven't bought fuel line yet, you might want to look at Russell ProClassic hose (or similar braided nylon hose). I just redid my whole setup with it, and it's so much easier to use than braided stainless. Easier to cut, fittings go together easier, and it's more flexible for better routing. Oh, and it also weighs less. Of course there's a downside, it's a lil bit more expensive.

I have all my stuff hidden fairly well, makes for a nice clean look ..

I've seen your work, I'm sure you will have no problem out doing me

I have more pics if you need to see anything else

"a place for everything and, everything in its place"

Ia that just a union in the fuel line on the right side of the photo??

Yes ..

-10 up and back , Kyle Fickler then worked for Aeromotive and told me how it should be done


Notice, fliter AFTER the pump, I asked over and over are you SURE ?? Yep ..Not even a pre=screen ??Nope ,cause air bubbles

buttttt..Your instructions say ????

Ignore it do it this way ??

So, it will cause a fight , and I don't even like to post tech anymore cause everyone has there way ..

I did it the way he told me ..

Post deleted by ab7fh

I didn't wire my cuda, so I can't help with that. I will offer a couple suggestions though, consider servicing it! Examples are a loop of all the dash wires and all the switch panel wires, so they can be hung down and swivelled for service. Wire the components (water pump, Alt, starter, Dist, Fuel pump, etc.) so you can remove them and set them aside without disconnecting. Don't have the wires going in 2 different directions if possible. Make sure low level signal wires are not bundled with high amp or high noise wires. The ignition should not be bundled with the alt, fuel pump, water pump. On items where the common diagnosis is "replace with known good unit and retest" like ignition modules and relays, consider how easily they can be replaced. If you are using any small sub-harnesses like a fan connector, the standard is to run the hot wire to the female connector, so when it's disconnected, it can't short out. Mount wiring so it can be checked with a test light without moving the component if possible.

Most race cars are wired without main harness connectors. If you are doing that, make sure you will be able to trace each wire. You don't want to have to disconnect everything on that end of the harness to pull it out enough to diagnose. If you do use main connectors, split them up to have all the heavy circuits on one and the low circuits on another. Again, have the female connector on the hot side.

Have all the fuses in one or two locations, and make sure you have extras easily at hand. If you are in the staging lanes for the final, a big assortment in the trailer won't help.

Consider what would happen if the heavy wires do short. Don't tie wrap them to a fuel hose, or where the heat will cause more issues. Try to avoid heat and vibration where you can.

Thanks, those are some excellent suggestions

This is like the tube/no tube in slicks discussions.

I'm running a A-1000pump with a 100 micron filter on the inlet side, 10 micron on the outlet side.
10AN up, 8AN back on an EFI system.

I've had problems with cavitation, should I remove the 100 micron pre filter?

you can't go wrong with a Magnafuel. great for street cars too.

the battery cutoff is for convenience and security...i just can't get myself to punch a hole in the Dart's tail

I'm making progress Thanks to everyone who has helped

hey where did you get the idea of the sliding tray

Making some sense of the spaghetti.