last week I asked a Toyota dealer on this. There are 3 yokes available. 2 for the 5speed, 1 for the Auto. All are similar or the same. They couldn't tell me the difference except in the p/n. I bought a used driveshaft last week and will receive it tomorrow. I can measure it if you want. Or post a pic.

Clair, a problem is that the Tranny won't pass the old transmission mounting. You have to modify it or cut it out and build a new one.

And in my eyes the input shaft is approx. 5mm too short. I will let the Bellhousing be machined (where the Tranny is mounted)...
I have test-fitted it but I don't have the pilot bearing yet.

here is another website about the R154 I just found:

manual r154

Here's a pic why I'm a bit concerned about the tranny cross member. I need apprx. 1" more space, thats the half of the member. I don't want to cut it out complete because of the stability of the chassis. On the pic you can see the driver side of the tail housing. The front of the tranny is on the left.

Yeah, I didn't think there was any way that fatty of a transmission was just going to sneak in to the car without a little torch work. I'm actually a little surprised that it's only an inch you need, and I bet you could easily recreate that much by putting it on the top side of the existing x-member and boxing it up. That's pretty much how I planned on doing things, and just building a new x-member around the trans once I got it where it needed to be for driveshaft angles. Speaking of, how did you handle that aspect of the swap? Did you build some sort of jig to recreate the driveshaft yoke location, or just measure from a few spots on the floor?

Nice to see someone making some progress for a change. I've got a couple details on another option I'll post up as soon as I get everything uploaded to my web pages. Takes photos to show what's going on...

Clair

I measured the yoke to floor. 7.5cm.

I hope that some notches in the torsionbar X-member will be good enought.

Clair,
whats your opion about shorten the Bell on the tranny side approx. 5mm to get the input shaft more into the pilot bearing? I think its better than make a custom bushing which comes more out of the bearing hole. Don't yo think?

about the x-member I don't even have a solution yet. I saw some pics in the Net from cars which have this member cutted out completly. Builded professionaly.... I don't think that this is that good. Maybe I open the tunnel and widen the member a bit. Welding is not a problem....

Here's what my crossmember looks like so far.





I made sure the centerline of the motor was parallel to the centerline of the car and made a reasonable attempt to get the carb mounting area level to the car/ground.

Your car will probably differ as I have an adapter plate pushing the trans back (don't know how the depth of your bell compares to mine) and I am working on a very early A-Body.

Hey, Buschi,
Sorry for the late reply, I've been fighting computer problems lately and didn't see the new post on my favorites list...

I need to check my numbers again, but I don't remember thinking that I needed an extended pilot bushing. Even if I did, I don't think I'd worry too much about though. As long as the trans is reasonably well centered, the pilot should see very little if any loads. I'll see if I can find my calculations again. That'll take some work, as we recently converted our "office" in to a room for our second kiddo that's arriving in May. I need to find all my stuff again...

Dion,
That is one battleship of a trans X-member! Looks great!

Clair

Dion, thats a really strong one.

Clair, I made some pics as well. The inputshaft is just 10mm into the bushing/bearing. The first 5mm of the shaft has a chamfer (correct word?) so no contact here.
At all, for me is the point of no return reached...

next:
no clutch and pilot at this point...

(still haven't found my notes...)

Seems like you could have a pilot bearing sleeve made up like the Mopar unit, but with a nose on it to support the OEM Toyota roller bearing. Ought to be easy work for any machine shop, especially if you have the Mopar bearing/sleeve to use as a go-by.

I guess you could mill the bellhousing as long as there is sufficient material there to support the loads after the job. I'm not a materials guy, so I don't know what the possibilities of that option really are.

Sure looks like you're making some good progress, though. I need to get some more info on my swap in the near future. The last few months have been nothing but parts chasing...

Clair

I already bought the Mopar Bearing at local chrysler dealer. Thanks god that I had the p/n's, they wouldn't find anything...
I thought I buy it for reference and build a new and longer one with a bearing which fits the Toyota input shaft.

I think machining the bell 2-3mm on both sides wouldn't hurt the stability.

Clair, if you are still chaising - pls chase the speedo cable for me...

Is it possible to install a centerforce dual friction? Or is Centerforce2 good enought (theoretically).

2 pics from my process. Built a new torsion bar x-member. Took the old, cut out and in peaces, wided, welded in and boxed....
(a lot more than expected)

2nd pic

thats how the tunnel looks now with new metal covered...

now I'm at the stage 48heap already did. Connecting the Supra tranny mount with the original transmission x - member. Or going a different way? I'm not sure, need advice....

Clair,

a question about the throwout bearing. I have an old one which I received with the Bell housing and clutch parts from the Dakota. I put it on the input shaft and recognized a little side play. About 1-2mm. Is it ok or too much? It looks a little loose to me...
Ok, another one. Can I use the original Dakota Bearing with a Centerforce Dual Friction Pressure Plate? I got one from a friend...

BTW, my propellershaft is 5cm (2") too short now...

Minimal progress, but still some.

For a while, I've been tinkering with some Jeep Liberty parts to adapt the Toyota R-154 transmission rather than the Dakota parts (bellhousing, starter, flywheel, etc) because the Jeep Liberty parts are more compact. My thinking was that the smaller parts would be happier living with the TTI headers & such. The Libby bellhousing uses a 10.4?" clutch and a flywheel essentially the same size as the 130-tooth old-school flywheel, but it appears to have 131teeth. AND, the bigger deal seems to be that the flywheel ring gear is located about 1/2" closer to the block than on the older engines. I found this out after bolting up my old 130-tooth FW and noting that the unique Liberty starter motor wouldn't reach the ring gear.

So, in a nutshell, I've got all these Liberty parts that will physically bolt the Toyota trans up to my 340, and I'm seeing what it's going to take to get a flywheel that makes the whole shebang work. If it's going to take a custom billet flywheel to do the job, the Liberty parts go on eBay and I'll pick up where I left off with the Dakota parts I have stashed. If I can get a FW with the right offset on the ring gear for a reasonable price, it'll be another option for folks who want to do this swap with mostly factory parts.

Clair

why not get a stock flywheel redrilled for the smaller clutch? basically all your adding is the 6 holes that bolt on the clutch if i'm understanding this correctly. if its too hard to drill, the flywheel can be EDM, this may not be a really cheap option but with minimal effort you could try it.