For those of you running Cal-Trac rear suspension and a transbrake, what's your setup consist of?

Meaning...
ET and MPH for the combo?
What tires and tire pressure?
What rear shocks?
Preload on the Cal-Trac bars?
What RPM do you leave at?

I tried the 'brake for the first time last night and it absolutely blew the tires off. Tried a few different setups and made little progress. Hooked great footbraking it. I am running Drag Radials, but curious to see what works for yall. Thanks, CHIP

I bet your going to have trouble hooking that beast on DR's off the transbrake...But man if you could it would be one heck of a ride...

My info may not help you as you have WAY more motor but 17 psi 12 inch wheels 315/60, 1/4 turn preload on drivers' side snug on passenger side,rancho single adjustable on 7,cal trac 90/10's on front. Leave at 3400 rpm on a 4200 convertor.

Bob...I think you're right,it may take a while but I want to make it work. It feels like a monster when I let go of the button, but as soon as the wheels get in the air it slams them back down and fries the tires.

67wedge...thanks for the info. I tried a setup close to yours last night and it didn't work for me, but I'm gonna keep at it.

Anyone else? CHIP

So are me and 67wedge the only 2 here running Cal-Tracs and transbrakes? CHIP

I think your problem is in the front , not the rear, as soon as you run out of travel,lift stops, the front falls and you spin. I run slicks but as far as the Cal-Tracs, I set mine up with a slight air gap about .030 gap and adjust small amount of preload in as needed to keep the car straight.I've had Cal tracs and Ranchos (5way)since 02 set on 3 or 4 . Footbrake I use a lot of preload and get same results but car goes out about 10 feet before coming up

I have 6" of travel up front and the front end is loose.

I've tried no preload, 1/4 turn preload, and 1 turn preload. I've tried 19.5 psi and 15 psi in the tires, not much difference. Made a big change just to see what would happen.

Hooks the best footbraking w/ 19.5 psi and no preload. 1/4 turn preload works well footbraking too.
9 way ranchos have been set on 9 for the past 3 years since that's where it hooked the best footbraking. Have not tried a different setting on them yet with the transbrake. CHIP

What shocks in the front? The reason I said that about the front is I used to do same thing, Changed shocks and cured it. I went to Koni's from Comp eng. 3 ways and they slowed the rise enough it stopped the spin.

LilWedge...I have some "custom" lakewood 90/10s. I drilled and drained them, then replaced the fluid with marvel mystery oil. They're pretty loose. Work great on motor (wheelies as high as your picture footbraking), but obviously lacking on the transbrake. I've been wanting to put a pair of Calvert 90/10s on the front but havn't gotten around to it.

I watched the video. As soon as I release the button , the front tires are in the air (only 2-3") for a split second and then touch back down when the rears go up in smoke.
So slow up the front end rise? CHIP

keep us updated.. im thinking about a brake

Worked for me but I just have a 10-1 360, Your throwing a lot more at it with a lot less tire, I read an article by Wayne Scraba years ago on shocks and thats what got me to try it. You might google it and see if you find it. Also my car scales about 51% to rear.

http://www.automedia.com/Adjustable_Shocks/pht20001101as/2 This isn't it but explains it somewhat.

I think you need to slowdown the front end rise, and more travel would help, I run the Koni shocks set to the middle, think that is supposed to be 70/30, I have no front end limiters, right at 6 1/2 travel, if it just jerks the fronts and spins you have to slow the front down, or figure out a way to give it more travel, I had to rig some shock extensions with the Koni's to get the 6 1/2, now as far as those DOT rears, I have no expewrience with those, all my runs on slicks, so not sure if my advice is the best or not. If possible weigh out all four corners, you in the car, get rears as close to same as possible, run about a dime gap on the Caltracs, should be the working spot, if not increase preload 1/4 turn at a time, I run mine in bottom, but it pretty muchs works in either hole, get those rear wheel weights close, it'd help to if you bought a set of real drag tires, IMHO

Maybe I missed it, but how much front end travel do you have?

If it hooks initially, and then unloads the tires when the front wheels come up you might want to lower the front end.

Sounds counter intuitive to take weight off the rear by lowering the front, but it will give it more total front end travel. It might be enough run at the front suspension that when it pulls the front wheels up, it will just keep going up and not unload the rear suspension.

My

before t brake

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCQt_cATHLk

Lilwedge...Thanks for the info!

Wyoming...I think you're right about the slowing the frontend rise. It took some doing to get the 6" of travel I have now. Removed the UCA bumpstops, shock extensions, and tall front tires so I could lower the front down as much as possible.
I went to these DOT radials b/c I was having trouble getting to hook at all w/ bias ply tires. The tech guys at M/T told me to get these and I was pleasantly surprised w/ low 1.3 sixty foots. They hook better than any slick I've ever had on the car. I've seen fast drag radial cars with transbrakes so I know it can work, just need to know what direction to go w/ the suspension tuning. I hope I don't need to go back to a bias tire to get it to hook on the transbrake.

Dizuster...6" of travel. I can't really get the front end any lower. The oil pan is barely 3" above the ground now. I put 28" tall tires on it a few years back so I could lower it more to gain travel.

WedgeOmatic...Thanks for the vid links.

67wedge...If you lived nearby I wouldn't mind seeing what it'd run in your car! It's not porpoising, I fought that issue a few years ago. I'll be giving Calvert Racing a call tomorrow and see what they recommend. CHIP