This year I've found a number of tufts of grass like the one in the attached picture in my yard. I'm assuming it's crabgrass but I'm not sure. I live in SC. Can anyone advise what this stuff is and how to get rid of it? It's the darker colored patch in the middle of the picture. Thanks!!

Spray entire yard with Gordon's Trimec "Crabgrass Plus Lawn Weed Killer" Follow up a week later with Gordon's "Triple 10" liquid fertilizer.

Thanks! I'll try that.

my grass "expertise" is that as long as it's green, and the neighborhood yard boy keeps it looking cut, it's fine by me, even if it's 90% weeds and crabgrass.
[and some of you thought i was gonna comment on the "other" kind of grass.......... ]

I am by no means an expert but have been told if your going after crabgrass only a pre emergent is effective. Trimec is what I use on my acreage and it's great stuff. I have fitted a 5 gallon 12V backpack sprayer to my tractor and mower. If I see dandelion's, clover, thistles etc, they get a drink. Sometimes two a week or so apart
I'd suggest researching the effectiveness of any POST Emergent treatment. Do keep us posted

I’m having great luck with Espoma Organic Weed Preventer I read about in a handyman mag and bought off Amazon. Only issue is it does nothing to clover, my most hated weed. Seems like it does the rest. It does take a few years to build up in your soil, but it’s all natural since it’s just corn gluten. I’d love to find an organic way to kill the clover, but so far all I’ve heard of is vinegar and it seems to kill grass if you use enough to kill clover. Trying to keep it safe fro little kids to roll around in.

been using Trimec ad mentioned above and it will kick the clover's backside but one has to be persistent. meaning it may take more than one spray down. When I mow if I see it I pause and spray. Next mow (3-5 days) it's either dead or wilting. if wilting, Another dose usually does it. I do know the seeds of some weeds can lay dormant for several years. one just has to hit them every time one appears. When I bought my acreage 1 -1.5 acres was infested with Thistles. Didn't know anything about them but I learned quickly. Sprayed the entire area for several years until spot spraying was adequate. Still see one occasionally
Another thing I've read is that most seeds only travel 7-10 feet a year at most. My neighbor does not care as much so when mowing I spray his offerings about 10 feet back and it seems to drastically limit the travel.

The best post emergent I've seen for crab grass is quinchlorac
I actually don't mind a little clover in my yard, but it's the easiest thing to kill with any kind of spray.
What I hate is the thistle, sticker bushes and dandelions because they have such deep roots

That's not crab grass. It's Poa Annua. See all the little seeds. It will spread and the only way to get rid of it is to dig it up or spot spray with grass killer. No treatment of pre-emergence for Poa. Look it up.

I agree that isn't crabgrass, but my reply was driven more towards what he wrote.
I haven't seen what he pictured here before but now that it's been brought up my yard is FULL of that crap this year. I have 2 of the 3 ingredients for trimec here that I want to use up...
Some old stock I have plenty of 2,4d and dicamba. I have enough to get me thru this season, if it ever quits raining. Will a drink of those do the job of getting rid of what's pictured?
I'm wanting to use up what I have, then switch to the trimec once that's done.
Between my yard and my mother in laws yard, I should be able to use up my existing stash this season...

Nothing will get rid of it except spot treatment grass killer or digging it up. It is a grass so anything that kills weeds but not grass will not work. I have worked at golf courses and played all my life. It is so bad in California that they finally gave in and now the greens are all Poa on purpose.

Interesting. Never seen that in my yard til this year.
Usually my yard is beautiful until somewhere between mid June and early July when the damn crabgrass/water grass just flat out takes over then it gets hot out and no more rain, after that where I go from having to mow every 4-5 days to only having to mow every 2 weeks or so then comes back a fantastic Kentucky bluegrass again in the spring. But this poa is going nuts this year. I don't get how the crabgrass can over take my yard so hard core mid season and there not be a crap load of bare spots where it was last season, into the next.
I'm gonna be tilling up about half of my front yard as soon as I get a break from this rainy season, as we had a tree taken out including the stump ground out, I didn't realize how much the yard mounded up to that tree til the tree was gone. Then it was really noticable. So the plan is to till up the mounded section, probably an area about 25-30' square so I can take it all back flat and level. I have a 42" rear PTO mount tiller on an old school heavy duty Ariens garden tractor, it won't take long to grind it up, breaking sod and all..... I love that machine. Actually the sam exact tiller Deere used on their GTs except for the actual mount and being orange instead of yellow.

Agree with the Poa comments above. Its lighter green grass much of which can be easily pulled root and all by hand. I have some larger spots of Poa Trivialis in my yard, this is the difficult one. Poa Annua you can control a bit easier. Its best to dig it up, bit of new soil and sod or seed. The issue is the seed in the dirt could be there for years and keep coming back. When you have Poa, you have to play the long game to get rid of it.

A website called "do my own lawn care" has some herbicides that could help. Stuff like Aneuw, Tenacity and Certainty may have some effect but these are expensive and provide no guarantees.

I've been living with the Poa because of the larger areas. The stuff will die off when temps are consistently in the 80's. You can also add a bit of Ironite to darken up those lighter green spots.

Best of luck!

Thanks everyone!!