I think I'm getting closer to resolving this issue! At least I've figured out that bypassing the bulkhead fixes the issue!....
I'm about to check under the dash like you said!

the bypass shows the vr is working correctly and is grounded correctly.
the issue is wiring somewhere else. you will have to track the wire voltage from the ballast back to the bulkhead through the bulkhead, into the ignition switch, back out of the bulkhead etc till you find battery voltage and then go back and start cleaning it up till you see battery voltage.

or wire in a relay lol.

Your issue is somewhere between the two ends of the bypass wire Likely a connection. and IMO 14.9 is still too high.
if not previously mentioned the Ammeter terminal nuts are notorious for coming loose. DO Disconnect the battery while checking them

Ah ok, I'm beginning to understand it a little better! I'm not quite getting the relay your mentioning though.... I'll have to ask you more about that!... I'll most likely take the time to find the issue and fix that but I'm just glad you've helped me figure out a solution so that I can drive it!!!! I live far from anything, nothing within walking distance and I have to work! If I didn't say it before I'm very thankful and grateful for the help!!! 🥲👍
I'll trace the wires from the ballast back to wherever they go and I'm sure I'll find the culprit!!
I've had the dash components and cluster apart before! I've replaced the ignition switch years ago and like I mentioned before there's something funky with the lights and blower that didn't exist before! I'm aware that the lights will dim and get brighter as I accelerate and let off but this is different and sometimes the cluster lights don't work properly and that's a recent issue!

Well, I guess I'll just ask about the relay now... What relay exactly? Where would I install it? I have an idea of what a relay is, it's a magnetic switch of sorts that is actuated by electrical current that opens and closes a circuit correct?? Not sure where I'd put it or how it would work i my circumstance... Is that really an option or were you just kidding around?

A relay is an option.
I use it for my old car and have done the mod a few times.
I laugh because it is the lazy way out. instead of taking the time to find the actual issue, I just bypass it permanently.
relay has 5 connections.
you have to read the relay to see how it is set up.
but basically you have the original power source. the one that reads like 10 volts from the wiring diagram that goes to that big splice of everything in the engine compartment.
I cut that line before the splice and make that the voltage that closes the relay.
other end of the circuit that closes the relay is just any ground. I usually wire it back to the battery.
The second circuit is power from the battery to the splice end that is hanging free now.
so when you hit the key, it gives power to the relay, closes the circuit and power from the battery goes to that giant splice powering the ballast, VR and alt, with full battery power instead of the 10 volts you had before.
I would get one that is waterproof but isn't 100 percent necessary as long as you hang it somewhere slightly protected behind the engine or air cleaner. not sure on a van.
there are some pretty cheap ones out there, but junk yarding that part is probably cheapest. you can probably get one for under 5 bucks at the parts store for a generic one.

I have a 94' ram250 van that I pull parts from! Lot's of parts off that 94' are still compatible with my 79' b300!! Anyway, I might be able to find a relay in that thing that I'd be able to use!!!
The engine compartment in my 79' is terribly unprotected! The seal and "gutter system" is inexistent and the water just pours down all over most of the components! I didn't realize how bad it was until this latest issue and I had to go outside and work on the van after it had rained where I saw water dripping on the bulkhead connector! I need to customize some sort if seal or gutter to protect the engine compartment!
I think I'll just find the issue and fix it as long as I can still drive around with the temp. bypass! I'll probably wire in a kill switch in the bypass circuit so I don't have to pull the wires off each time!

Between the two ends of the bypass wire? Wouldn't that mean the problem is the bypass wire?? I know what you mean!
Funny you mention the ammeter because it's never worked since I've had the van and then recently, during this latest issue, I've noticed movement of the needle!
I'll check that out, thanks!

Don't the 79s have a shunt? I know nothing of B vans though.

I don't know either, that's the first time I've heard of a shunt!

there are 2 types of amp meters.
I don't know when they changed.
early types pass all the current through the amp meter.
so if it is disconnected or burnt out, you get no power inside the vehicle.
later ones, had what is know as the shunt style, which is basically a parellel path that still reads the amps used.
it wasn't as volatile as the early ones.

Well, I've been driving the van for the past couple of days with no issues... Yesterday the wipers didn't work when I drove to work in the morning but they started working on the way home!
The voltage has been holding steady between 14.5 to 15 volts! I had mentioned before that having the blower on and lights was bringing the voltage down to 10.5!!! With that bypass in, the voltage has been steady at 14.5 volts! The voltage did drop for a bit at idle with the blower and lights but went back up in drive.... Maybe it has nothing to do with the overcharging problem but thought I'd mention it anyway...
I'll be back in a few days to post my findings in the wiring!

The top notch help and knowledge provided in this post is what's missing in the Facebook groups. The group etiquette on FB is NOT to do a search to see if the topic has already been covered but rather post it. Then the replies generally recommend rapid fire parts cannon deployment- or "Buy a new vehicle." Moparts.com for the win here.

Its not uncommon to have the charging voltage, drop while the motor is at an idle while in gear, if there are a lot of things drawing power (the blower motor, the lights, the radio, and any other electrical device connected to the van is pulling power from the battery). The motor RPMs are probably not turning the alternator quite fast enough to put out enough voltage to cover what is being drawn out of the battery. As son as the rpm increases, the voltage should jump up. Sometimes a poor connection between the battery posts and the battery cables can be the cause of this voltage drop, those battery post to cable connections have to be clean, shiny, and tight. Often times its just a matter of a low idle rpm. As long as its not dramatically dropping and returns to a charging condition as soon as the vehicle is moving again, I wouldn't be too much concern over it, but do make sure the battery post to cable connections are clean and tight.

I understand how important the connections are! I recently replaced the negative cable with a brand new one and a couple of years ago I rebuilt the carb, steering pump, new water pump and new distributor so I made sure all the grounds and contact points were clean and sprayed with that red spray!
After doing all that I made sure the idle was set according to factory specs! The idle is set to 750 rpms! I'm not running anything extra off the system just lights and blower when it's cold...
Well, if you guy's think none of what I've mentioned above is related to the overcharging then I'll move on with the next possiblity...

I agree! This forum rules and I was here a couple of years ago when I rebuilt my carb and tranny! Incredibly helpful folks here!!!!

I haven't had time to get into the wiring until today!! I don't have much of an update...
Honestly I'm extremely confused with the circuitry in the van regardless of how simple it is! Electrical is not my strong suit!!! I really don't know what to check for!
Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand the overcharging is caused by low power to the VR and the VR is increasing the voltage to compensate? So I have to follow the power wires that go into the VR back towards the battery? It could be a bad connection somewhere or maybe a bad component?? Could it be the coil? Electronic control unit? Starter relay? What am I looking for exactly?? Should I follow the power cables/wire from the battery instead??? Am I supposed to be checking for the same voltage as the battery???
I unwrapped the whole harness in the engine bay so I could get a better look!

it is not likely to be a component.
it will be a connection.
that wire goes to the giant splice on the wiring diagram, then into the bulkhead connector, which is the most likely problem.
then it goes inside to the ignition switch, not sure if it is column or dash mounted. column mounted means another connector at the base of the steering column.
the ignition switch.
then back to the amp meter
then back through the bulkhead connector which could be the problem too, or combination of in and out.
then to either another common hot or to the battery.
you will also need to validate the grounds give you the same voltage. using the battery neg post and vr body. which you did earlier so you should be good. but just be careful using whatever is closest as a ground when you are inside vs in the engine compartment.
and you will have to do this with the key in the run position for power.
careful not to zap anything.
when you split the bulkhead connector you will probably see the corrosion.

So the red wire from the VR goes into a splice of 8 wires! One goes to the alternator, one goes to the VR, one goes to the diagnostic connector, one goes to the ignition control module, one goes to the oil pressure switch, two go to the ballast resistor and one to the bulkhead connector... All of those wires and connections seam good! I checked them all for continuity(the little buzzer setting) and all seam good...
The bulkhead connector is super clean and the only corrosion is with the wire that runs from the bulkhead to the transmission backup lamp switch and that works fine!

I checked the voltage of the wire in the bulkhead running from the splice with the key ON and it reads 11.3v(firewall side) while the battery reads 12.6v... The voltage of the same wire at the bulkhead on the inside with the key ON reads the same (11.3v)!

I'm going to follow the wire fron the bulkhead up into the steering column and see what I find! I'll be back!

I SEE THE PICTURES UPLOADED WERE TURNED 90° AFTER UPLOADING THEM SO IF YOU FOLLOW THE CAPTION WITHOUT NOTICING THAT DETAIL YOU WONT FIND THE CORRECT CONNECTOR! PLEASE BE MINDFUL OF THAT DETAIL!

Btw the ignition switch is in the steering column and I replaced it and the harness a few years ago...

that is a nasty splice.
continuity won't be the issue. it will be resistance causing the voltage drop.
but it sounds like it is past that splice anyway.
you probably don't have the extra line in that splice, but the old school way was to put ring connectors on them and put it on the big cable side of the starter relay. but I guess leave it alone if it ain't broke.