Hey guys, the motor in my 49 Dodge pickup is a 5.2 out of a 96 Dakota with about 60,000 miles on it now. I suspect most of the donor truck's use was originally only winter use because the truck only had 44,000 miles on it (the frame was rotted away) up until I used the drive train in my 49 and started driving it in 2022. That means most of the time those injectors say with pressure on them and no use. Since then I have put around 16,000 miles on it.

I'm thinking it might be a good idea to just replace the OEM injectors, but the options sound pretty limited. I can get OEM rebuilt injectors for around $400, or I can buy new Bosch injectors for an LS Cheby for $350. At that price point I think I would rather buy new rather then rebuilt OEM. Supposedly the GM Bosch units are 4 hole compared to the one hole Mopar OEM and are better at fuel atomization, but there is some question as to if they are a plug and play, or if I need an adaptor to connect them to my wire harness.

This is not a race motor, just a daily driver.

What is the word from the Mopar camp?

No one has replaced the injectors on their 90s Dodge trucks?

Anyone have any idea if I need the adaptor for the electrical connection on the injectors to be able to install newer injectors in my 96 Dakota V8?

Injectors can either be ev1 or ev6- that describes the type of connector to the injector itself
Chrysler used both
96 should be ev1
I like the 4 hole injectors and been using several sets from CS perfromance on ebay. They call them upgrade injectors, they are like 22 lb/hr at 39 psi- can be overdroiven in vehicles using 49 psi, like what the ev6 trucks came with.
AVOID adapters at all costs- some real junk out there

I went to pic-apart got 3 sets from various models, rails too, $30 each, chasing an issue, they weren’t the problem but never found any difference in the ones I changed. Must not go bad imo.

So I went on the CS Performance website, all their listed injectors are rebuilt by themselves. Their list of injector options have 94 & 95 5.2, or 99 to 2006 5.2/5.9, all for the "upgrade" injectors. The only listing I see for the 96-99 is the OEM replacement injectors or injector repair kits. I hate it when everyone wants to skip a few years in their listings.

I read on one of the websites that the change between the EV1 and the EV6 was when Dodge went to the OBD2 system, but it failed to tell which EV was the early one and which was the later one.

Prices are all over the map as well. There are "no brand name" rebuilt 4 hole injectors on Ebay for as low as $69 for a set of 8, ranging up past $260 for a set of 8 rebuild by Bosch, to $63 each for brand new Bosch.

The Siemens Injectors, which are supposed to be OEM Mopar parts and replacements are new injectors for around $259 for a set of 8.

I was not expecting this big of a mess!

Changing the injectors on this truck is going to be a pain, I would rather just have to do it once if possible.

Injectors rarely ever go bad, My truck has 240K with the originals and no issues. I have not seen proof(dyno results) that the 4 hole ones are any better than the single. If i where going to replace my injectors i would get flow matched ones.

I researched replacement fuel injectors for my OBD-I 1995 Magnum 5.9V8

I still had this post-it note with info:

OEM 53030262
255 cc (24.5 lb/hr at 35 psi)
made by Siemens

Bosch Part # 0280150927
234 cc

Delphi Part # FJ10417

(I think these above are EV1 plugs)

My fuzzy memory is the the 1995 V-10 ran at a different fuel pressure than a 5.9V8
but when you adjust for pressure it is just a hair higher flow

The OBD-I 1994 to 1995 Magnum 5.2 allegedly had a smaller 18 lb/hr injector
but all the 1994-1995 ones I have checked in junkyards had the same part number
as my 5.9V8

Perhaps the 1992 to 1993 Magnum 5.2 was the 18 lb/hr ?

At some point OBD-II Magnums went to higher fuel pressure, 48 to 52 psi range.

Here in moparts we discussed ‘E’boggers article in Mopar Action
on getting his V6 to V8 Dakota’s injectors cleaned
and decided the injector cleaning company had sent him back bigger 1994-1995 24.5 lb/hr injectors than the ones he mailed them.

My original interest was “balancing” air fuel ratios in all 8 cylinders
by “custom fitting” slightly different flow injectors
to match the unique air flow each intake runner was getting, due to factory tolerance not being all that precise.

A more practical way to do this would be to drill and tap a hole in each intake manifold runner - then screw in a “blocking bolt”.
This is how natural gas furnaces have the air/ fuel ratio balanced
using flame color match on multiple burners
to minimize “excess air”.

This idea of flame color is used in the “Colour-Tune” British spark plug.

Thanks guys.
i believe I'm gaining more understanding. I'm probably going to just order the rebuilt originals.

My area of concern about the injectors is not so much they are "wore out" because in general, they are pretty much low mileage items, my concern was more towards the amount of time they were not in use over the years. The truck was only driven about 1500 miles a year from 1996 until it came into my possession in 2020 I am more concerned about carbon build up inside the injectors that may prevent smooth, consistent operation, which I believe my problem is.

I suppose sending them out to get cleaned would probably be the best answer, but this truck is my daily driver and one of only 2 vehicles we have here, with two drivers often going different places at the same time. I can't afford to take it out of service for a week or more it may take to send off and wait to get my injectors back.

Another factor in this process is that changing the injectors on this motor in this truck will not be a simple process. Its going to require the removal and reinstallation of the painted 3 part hood (a 2 person job). I've watched the videos about changing them. I expect this to be another one of those experiences where doing it one time will be plenty for me. I'm getting too old for this stuff.

Pic 1) The hood before paint. The center piece is attached to the top of the firewall at the rear, and to a panel in front of the radiator in the front, and the sides hinge off that center piece and latch to the fender supports.
Pic 2) The reason for the hood removal. That air filter housing has to be tipped just right to get it out from under the hood. This would be the easy side.
Pic 3) There are two of those aluminum tanks bolted to the filter housing now, both will have to be removed to remove the filter housing. This side isn't going to be very fun, even with the hood removed. The motor is mounted on factory Dakota 4x4 motor brackets, and the brake booster is bolted to its original position on the Dakota firewall.

You should be able to find a local shop to clean the injectors.Check truck shops.

There's a Bosch certified injector place about 6 miles away from me

I will look into it, but most places around here don't do any specialty stuff inhouse, they all ship stuff out. By the time I pay for the new "O" rings, the cleaning, the price markup, and the shipping, I'm probably close to the price of buying the rebuilt ones on line and having them shipped to me. I also won't have the down time.

They list 92-94 injectors- and 1% flow matched even
Those years injectors had higher flow rates- in 96-99 they were the corporate flow rate which was like 23.2 lbs/hr at 49psi.
Those upgrade injectors are significantly lighter than the original style pintle injectors and its your decision on pintle 1 hole vs 4 hole sinjectors. Controversial topic.
I like the lighter 4 hole injectors- running 2 sets- one in a 2001 5.9 and one set in 99 5.9.

I'm not understanding why the hood has to come off. You're not doing an intake swap are you? I have a '93 Dakota (3.9), and the injectors weren't a huge process. You just need to lift the fuel rails enough to clear the injectors.

I would just order the rebuilt originals.

There are in place (Non Dismantle) fuel injection cleaning kits available. The set up is as follows; Disconnect the fuel lines to the injection fuel log on the supply and return ports. Cap the return port and attach the injector cleaning equipment. Start the engine and let runs until the cleaning agent runs out. Re attach connections to normal and your done. I used this process quite a bit back in the 90's and it worked well.

Where might I get something like this these days? Is there a brand name or something to look for online?

You looked at my pictures, right?

I was in the shop this after noon and looked at the setup. The passenger side should be easy, the driver side, not so much. I will give it a shot without pulling the hood.

somewhat expensive.........

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172341162464?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325928977115?

cheap version : https://www.ebay.com/itm/145110732909?

I had the two Bosch injectors for my 1994 BMW R1100RS cleaned and flow matched years ago by this shop in Depere WI:

https://dsgbinc.com/

They said my injectors, at that time with 150,000 miles on the bike, were very clean and required little work. But I rode the bike regularly and at least twice a year ran Techron in the fuel, and always used premium whole gas. I use NO E10 or E15 crap in any of my small engines, never had a fuel related issue with any engines.

Tried Techron first.

Larry Widmer recommended Regane, so I tried that and after a tank it did seem to reduce pinging at full throttle on hot summer days.

Read testimonials on Yamaha Ringfree, and it also seemed to work, although it is the most expensive.

I don't believe I'm going to invest in one of the injector cleaning systems at this point in my life.

I do believe I'm going to start with the add to you gas tank cleaners, maybe a couple back to back to see if that makes a difference. Might be a waste of time and money, but I did one tank full and then 3-4 months later another and both seemed to help for a while. Right now the truck is just seeing about 100 miles a week, but when the weather breaks, those miles tend to add up a lot faster. The truck will be going out of town at some point in the next week or so, where we will put 150 miles on it in a day. The in tank cleaner before that day trip and another one after should make a difference if its going to help. I've seen a top 10 list of in tank injection cleaners for 2023 and the going rate is around $15-$18 a treatment. I've waisted more then $30 or other dumb stuff, so what the heck. This might actually help.

The next step will be to replace the injectors.

Thank you guys for the info.

I think I know the reason your not going with the usual aftermarket replacements but I just need to ask? Are they all poor quality?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1996,dakota,5.2l+v8,1087679,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224

Think price!
Rock Auto has the same pricing as my local auto parts stores (my local stores would have to order a set of 8) @ just over $60 each, then add shipping at RA. I can buy new upgrades replacement sets of 8 for $350 a set, with free shipping, and remanufactured in the $200- $260 range (with a "lifetime" warrantee, what ever that is suppose to cover), with free shipping. I don't mind giving my local stores a bit extra, its nice having them here, but double the price is a bit excessive.

Understood. I assumed in this instance that RA was less $$ than the local stores. Before I buy parts I compare Napa, O Reilly's, Auto Zone and Advance to Rock Auto. Sometimes the local stores are better value.

Yes, I do that as well. Once I get a manufacturers part number I do an on line search for that part number. It is amazing how much price spread some parts have over the different outlets.

I watched one of those how to U tube video on changing his injectors and the guy gave the part number of the injectors he used. The same factory part number had a price range between $70 for a set of 8, up to $300+ per each! Then there were the rebuilt ones that had another wide price range. In my head, I automatically throw out the lowest priced and the highest priced parts figuring both are some sort of con job. From there its choosing the easiest places to buy from, with the best reviews. Then ask here for input. The last thing is to spin the wheel and take the chance, wait a bit longer, or pass completely.

One other bit of fuel injector trivia.

A team of engineers at EPA Lab at RTP wanted to convert a VW diesel over to run on methanol without changing the compression ratio.
They reported that they tested several makes of fuel injectors and chose the Holley 12 hole as the best at atomizing the fuel.

https://archive.epa.gov/otaq/technology/web/pdf/sae-2002-01-2743-v2.pdf

sample quote

At least four different types of port fuel injectors were evaluated for measured engine brake thermal efficiency as well as spray characteristics with methanol, verified with high-speed planar laser imaging. The best- atomizing injectors among the group were racing-style, 36 lb/hr, 12-hole port fuel injectors manufactured by Holley, operating at 4 bar rail pressure. For best startup and transient performance, the injector tip was targeted at the back of the intake valve, from a distance of approximately 80 mm.

end quote

A buddy and I picked up a used CT-150 injector cleaner. Haven't used it yet, but it looks like it should work alright.

On last Friday we took the truck to Rockford. I had picked up a bottle of the top rated Chevron in tank fuel injection cleaner ($16.18 with tax) and filled up the truck just after we left town (10 miles from home, a long the way, the same gas was $.30 a gallon cheaper away from home) and added the injector cleaner before the fill. I have somewhere near 160 miles on that tank of gas, so I will pick up another bottle of the Chevron injector cleaner and add it before I fill up the truck, probably tomorrow.

I put plugs, cap, rotor, and wires on the motor a few months ago The O2 sensor is only about a year old. We pulled for codes about a month ago and nothing showed up (early OBD2 system) At times the truck stumbled a bit, like it was running lean, but other times it acted like it was running rich. When the motor is about 1/2 warmed up, it will die at traffic lights because of a low idle rpm. When its cold its OK, and once fully warmed up its OK. Gas mileage is all over the map, but it definitely gets better mileage on the open highway between 65 and 75 (in the 17-19 mpg range, its a 4x4 with a 5.2, 46re trans and 3:55 gears. Around town the mileage range is around13 mpg when its warm, and as low as 10 (or less) mpg in cold weather. Nothing about this truck is aerodynamic. That 1st bottle of injector cleaner appears to have reduced the stumble a lot, and most of the running rich, it has not appeared to help with the dying when 1/2 warm. There really has not been enough miles to make an honest determination if the cleaner is going to have lasting effect or not, at this point. That 2nd bottle is to assure at least the injectors are as clean as the additive will make it. I can live with the current gas mileage, if the stumble, the rich conditions, and the dying at 1/2 warmed up are gone.

It was my “seat of the pants” feeling that Chevron Techron makes my 1995 5.9V8 run better.

Gumout Regane,
Yamaha Ringfree
and BMW dealer sold Ventril Sauber (in German Ventril Sauber translates to “Valve Cleaner”)
also had a seat of the pants improved feel.

Texas Lubricants used to sell a “Fuel Conditioner” that had an
Amazing-to-Me ability to make the idle silky smooth.

The idle also got smoother at 260 degree F coolant temperature.

The flat piston crowns of your 5.2 probably build up a thinner layer of carbon soot than the “soapdish cavity” of a 5.9V8 piston does.

Well, I am about 140 miles (mostly highway) into the second tank in a row with the Chevron injector cleaner added in. Both tanks full were mostly highway, which they suggest for the best cleaning, so the current injectors are probably about as clean as they are going to be.

I would love to report how things are going, but the outside temps have been in the mid to upper 40s all week (it is 55 degrees at 2:30 pm on Feb 8)), so I really don't know if the improvement I feel is because of the warmer temps or the injector cleaner. We are suppose to get back into the low 30s for highs towards Sat for a week or so. Maybe I will have something to report then.