My 56 cab was damaged some time in its past, in storage. I was told the building collapsed and a beam landed across the cab roof, creased it almost from drip rail to drip rail. Today I just tried laying on the seat and pushing up against the roof, little gain that way. So I'm thinking, take out the seat, lay 3/4" plywood across the cab floor, bottle jack on that to a 4x4 post under a 2x6 agaist the cab roof, and slowly jack it up to hopefully push most of the dent up. But any expertise about where to push first to make it better rather than worse?

I think it's best to start from the ends and work out the crease as you go. I"m not a professional body man but that's how I worked a good sized crease ot of my dakotas top.

I would start at the ends of the crease and work towards the center also. Last in, first out.

Arm yourself with some cold units & watch a few of this guys videos before starting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0MIPX7reTs

Agreed. Done some of the Youtube video watching already. I've decided I'll need to get a decent set of bodyworking hammers and dollys eventually. One of.the Youtube videos had a good review of the Gearwrench brand of hammers/dollys set. Not uch good to say about the Harbor Frieght hammer/dolly set. I'm not into spending the bucks for the professional Martin or Snap-On hammer/dolly set, though if I found a deal on a good used set I'd spend the bucks there. Looking on Amazon there are plenty to choose, and it seems the reviews are basically "you get what you pay for" and "don't waster your money on these."

Aside from the big roof dent, I have other dents and issues on my 56 cab and fenders to smooth out, so a good set of body hammers and dollys will be worth it. If anyone has a good used set of hammers/dollys I'd consider buying and covering the shipping if its a decent price.

I enjoy metal bumping, 1970 D300 cab step before & after photos. This phase took about an hour. Notice how much the gap at the back closed up on its own just from working the damaged areas.

Wow, nice work, all done with moving the metal back to where it was with hand tools?

Yes sir. There was another shallow dent in that inside cheek area, another 20 minutes took care of it & the gap at the back closed up even more.

great work on the step !

Nothing to really add except take your time.

Got in a fight with a carport a few years back, punched the back of my Dakota's roof in. Roof got hit in such a way, the window popped out instead of breaking.

I've gotten it pretty close, but there's still a slight hump I haven't been able to get down. The hardest part for me has been working around the rearmost inner structure.

Strangely enough, I have less water leaks with my temporary plug and no gasket, than I did with the window.........

Second pic is just roughed in, still no bondo.