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Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3131145
03/21/23 02:36 PM
03/21/23 02:36 PM
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N.E. OHIO, USA
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If this were my issue I would get out the infrared temperature gun and find where the overly hot or overly cool areas are. A few years ago I had my '68 RR overheat and puke coolant only when I parked it and it heat soaked. Thought the 26" radiator was good and could see good coolant flow looking in the cap opening, had a new water pump and thermostat, good fan shroud, the right pulleys and everything in order. Pulled into my good friend's driveway and sat there for a few minutes and started puking coolant. He went to his toolbox and pulled out the infrared thermometer and the lower 2/3rds of the passenger's side of the radiator was stone cold as it was plugged. I couldn't believe it. Re-cored it and no issues even with a cammed engine and A/C. Get the infrared temperature gun out and start checking where your issue might be.

measuring-coolant-temperature-in-car-with-eT650D-1200x800.jpg
Re: Cooling issue [Re: NITROUSN] #3131847
03/24/23 08:19 AM
03/24/23 08:19 AM
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Pendleton NY
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terzmo Offline OP
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Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
Originally Posted by terzmo
So wrong to compare a 95 engine with a 67 as far as cooling systems


What is the difference?

The differences? Clearances, efficiency, materials used, and technology. That's not to say that a 67 engine built with todays technology would be any different. To the OP, way to many variables to answer with any certainty IMO beer


And that is my point. I would assume what he has is all new or newer with all the clearances, tolerances along with technology.


so

Last edited by terzmo; 06/26/23 07:44 AM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3131932
03/24/23 02:15 PM
03/24/23 02:15 PM
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Last edited by NITROUSN; 06/23/23 02:10 PM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: NITROUSN] #3131950
03/24/23 03:39 PM
03/24/23 03:39 PM
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terzmo Offline OP
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Last edited by terzmo; 06/26/23 07:44 AM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132023
03/24/23 08:45 PM
03/24/23 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by terzmo
I have a 472 hemi in a 67 R/T and the 3 row aluminum rad that cools fine in any temp while cruising down the road. Has a 6 blade steel fan,half a$$ shroud and stock mechanical water pump. No clutch fan, direct. 180 milodon stat. Car will not stay cool while in traffic for a reasonable amount of time. Once rolling it drops temp. Idles at 850 rpm.

I know this is a cooling issue associated with not enough air flow at idle. So I am considering a high flow pump and a 4 row aluminum radiator with shroud and electric fans as the "potential" solution.

I see a few on e-bay but wonder about the quality of the rad and fans. Except for Champion, the others have poor warranties but Champion does not offer a rad with fans and shroud.

Any other suggestions on how to remedy my heating issue and also a GOOD source for a rad/shroud that works for a 67 R/T. Core size must be 26 inch. Also I would like an adjustable temp controller for the fans as most of the ones turn the fans on at 180. I would rather see them on at 190-195 .

Thanks in advance to all. Thanks Moparts



Overdrive the water pump. No slower than crank speed if you can’t overdrive it. Never EVER run the pump slower than the crank unless you are shifting at 8k or higher.

A 4 core radiator is a bad move.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Cooling issue [Re: madscientist] #3132051
03/24/23 11:57 PM
03/24/23 11:57 PM
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We had lots of good info posted, including some that was deleted. Hopefully some of it will be put to use.


I want my fair share
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132125
03/25/23 10:52 AM
03/25/23 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by terzmo
I'm starting with a high flow water pump..The 3 row alum rad is fairly new and restrictions/clogs are not an issue..it cools nicely down the road. I also will work on the shroud and seal any air gaps between it and rad. I also "may" remove the stat so there is nothing to restrict the flow and "IF" it cools I'll reinstall it to see if it makes a difference.


If you remove the stat you need to put a restrictor in it's place, water full flowing thru the block/heads is not going to do what it is supposed to do ... transfer the heat from the iron as efficiently as possible.

Personally it's a test that is wasting your time and effort as you aren't going to leave it that way.

Quote
Car will not stay cool while in traffic for a reasonable amount of time.


Describe what you consider a reasonable amount of time is please ...

Last edited by JohnRR; 03/25/23 10:54 AM.

running up my post count some more .
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132185
03/25/23 02:10 PM
03/25/23 02:10 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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i've fought bad temperature gauges and sending unit reading higher and lower than the actual internal temps were. I now check all suspicious cooling problems with two different heat temp guns to mak esure what the gauges are reading are accurate.
I had one of Autometer expensive race mechanical 320 degree reading on the face temp gauges reading 140 F when I could put my hand on the thermostat housing it wasn't hot at all, sticking my finger in the radiator with the electric water pump circulating the water found it below body temperature shock shruggy
Trust but verify up twocents


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Cooling issue [Re: Cab_Burge] #3132202
03/25/23 02:57 PM
03/25/23 02:57 PM
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i agree with Cab on checking your gauges with a heat gun.
new parts these days are suspect to me, no matter who or where they are made.
it seems nobody has "pride in workmanship" these days............
if one disagrees with me on what is considered "hot", that's ok ! i know what works for me, and if something works for another and they are happy with it, no problem.
beer

Re: Cooling issue [Re: JohnRR] #3132253
03/25/23 05:54 PM
03/25/23 05:54 PM
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ruderunner Online content
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Originally Posted by JohnRR
Originally Posted by terzmo
I'm starting with a high flow water pump..The 3 row alum rad is fairly new and restrictions/clogs are not an issue..it cools nicely down the road. I also will work on the shroud and seal any air gaps between it and rad. I also "may" remove the stat so there is nothing to restrict the flow and "IF" it cools I'll reinstall it to see if it makes a difference.


If you remove the stat you need to put a restrictor in it's place, water full flowing thru the block/heads is not going to do what it is supposed to do ... transfer the heat from the iron as efficiently as possible.

Personally it's a test that is wasting your time and effort as you aren't going to leave it that way.

Quote
Car will not stay cool while in traffic for a reasonable amount of time.


Describe what you consider a reasonable amount of time is please ...


Personally, days at a time. An engine shouldn't get hot just idling in traffic.

But I'm not the OP, maybe he can tolerate 5 minutes before passing himself.


Angry white pureblood male
Re: Cooling issue [Re: ruderunner] #3132314
03/25/23 08:31 PM
03/25/23 08:31 PM
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Minnesota
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I agree airflow is a likely culprit with the circumstance you describe. But not for certain:

If it has an automatic trans, the heat generated from the converter due to the high idle of a cammed up engine and/or a loose converter can cause the coolant temp to rise from the trans cooler in the radiator. I recommend testing by installing a remote trans cooler and disconnecting the one in the radiator. Or you can drive in traffic and keep popping it into neutral when you are on the brakes to reduce heat from the trans and see if that helps.

Also, what is your timing at idle and off idle, at the RPM that the overheating occurs? It should be at least 20, preferably more, and if you have a operating vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum, that helps too.


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Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132352
03/25/23 11:52 PM
03/25/23 11:52 PM
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Lake Villa Il
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What is your base ignition timing. May need more initial/then limit total.


69 Charger. 438ci Gen2 hemi. Flex fuel. Holley HP efi. 650rwhp @7250 510rwtq @5700
Re: Cooling issue [Re: INTMD8] #3132371
03/26/23 07:56 AM
03/26/23 07:56 AM
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Pendleton NY
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Last edited by terzmo; 06/26/23 07:44 AM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132374
03/26/23 08:26 AM
03/26/23 08:26 AM
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nowhere
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Sniper Offline
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195-200 isn't overheating, or even running hot.

Re: Cooling issue [Re: Sniper] #3132430
03/26/23 12:16 PM
03/26/23 12:16 PM
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Pendleton NY
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terzmo Offline OP
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Didn't

Last edited by terzmo; 06/26/23 07:45 AM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132472
03/26/23 04:03 PM
03/26/23 04:03 PM
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ohio
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ruderunner Online content
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So, much ado about nothing.


Angry white pureblood male
Re: Cooling issue [Re: ruderunner] #3132532
03/26/23 08:53 PM
03/26/23 08:53 PM
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Freeport IL USA
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Originally Posted by ruderunner
So, much ado about nothing.


I agree.

We ran these old mid - late 60s Mopar motors on a dirt track. 220 is nothing to be concerned about, but it is time to look for a possible problem. After a hard race on a hot evening, our motor often was at 220 by the time it got to the pit stall. Like most others, we were spraying the radiator down as soon as we could get to it as it entered the pits, as soon as the temp started to drop (which was very quickly) we went on to our spot and shut it off. 230 is the shutdown range if the temp isn't dropping really soon (even warm water across the radiator core drops the motor temps fast), 230 could cause the rings to start to loose their tension and could cause a loss of power, long term, and if done multiple times. 235 is shut it down now time. Then let the thing peculate until its below 180 and you still are probably OK, if it becomes a regular feature, I pulled the motor down for inspection.

Re: Cooling issue [Re: poorboy] #3132702
03/27/23 11:48 AM
03/27/23 11:48 AM
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Last edited by terzmo; 06/26/23 07:45 AM.
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132730
03/27/23 01:19 PM
03/27/23 01:19 PM
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Lake Villa Il
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Before changing anything I would try more initial timing.

Last edited by INTMD8; 03/27/23 01:20 PM.

69 Charger. 438ci Gen2 hemi. Flex fuel. Holley HP efi. 650rwhp @7250 510rwtq @5700
Re: Cooling issue [Re: terzmo] #3132868
03/27/23 10:03 PM
03/27/23 10:03 PM
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s. e. pa.
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hi
move your timing up to 16 deg inital . 34 total


what is the comp ratio ?

my 511 hemi runs perfect temps < 180 stat >in hot weather. 10.5 comp pump gas

26 in 2 core alu rad with shroud and clutch fan .

timing is every thing !

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