I was warn about painting blocks that had been run with oil in them to clean them thoroughly with solvents and then brake cleaner and finally use a heat gun to dry the blocks out before painting them. That works well
You need to hold the heat on the block long enough to see the moisture come to the surface and then evaporate before moving the heated spot around to dry the complete intake valley and the front of the blocks were the timing sets go
I don't use Glyptal now, I use Rust oleum Damp Proof red primer to seal them

It will probably go in the oven and bake for a while at 120°-180° for an hour....Its brand new, but does have light oil on it.


And I got this little guy to install....

I made tubular mounts that go to the core support using the factory lower radiator mounting through bolts.

Well, not only am I not ready for racing, my Hemiroid has hit another snag....Last plan was to use the new block with the old rotating assembly...Got it all painted with Glyptol, got it all honed out, got the cam bearings in, got the cam in it, got pistons and assembled, polished the crank, put the crank and new bearings in the engine and torqued it all down....

Now here is where I want to thank Callies...

I got two blocks, about 2 years apart....Both are the same part number...But guess what....Callies has two different machining programs....One that has clearance for rods, and one that does not....I managed to get one of each, which we did not know about till today, when the first piston assembly went in and hit hard....Thanks Callies...

That be another reason I call them hemiroid motors
Get the die grinder and bits out and start making some chips and clearances

My pump gas Duster (.730 net lift on the intakes and .705 net lift on the exhaust valves) had over 3500 street miles and hundreds of passes at the track with no bad valve springs, I did shim them between .015 and .030 when I switch heads the last time to keep the seat and open pressures within 5 to 30. lbs. when I first put it together back when( between 2002/2004)
The key is to use good valve springs to start with and make sure they get enough oil on them to keep them cool enough to not loose tension when driving or racing them

Well this years cam is .701 and .698....Similar duration...I hope it runs really good and keeps springs alive. It is one of their milder ramps rates and uses less required spring pressure and is a tighter lash...So we will eventually see...maybe in a couple of months.