THE PIC BELOW IS OF AN S10 BUT PLEASE READ: My father in Florida as given me his 1995 Dakota std cab 2WD Dakota. It is rust free and has a fantastic running 318. I am gonna have it transported to my home. I plan to hot rod it. Starting with 5 lug conversion then wide 15" wheels and tires on the rear and skinnies up front. Going for the hot rod drag race look. I will buff out the paint and clean the interior. No serious lowering and no oversize wheels. Engine will be secondary priority and remain stock while I get the appearance exactly how I want. Basically- starting out it will look like it runs 11s but actually run 15s but I'm fine with that. Engine mods will come later- maybe much later. I have no pictures of the truck but I do have this pic of a random S10 that represents EXACLTLY how want I the the Dakota to look.

I like those...a lot! Should be a fun project. Update us with pictures when possible.

Changing from the 6 bolt wheels to the 5 bolt wheels on a 95 Dakota only amount to changing the front rotors to a 90 or older Dakota. The rear is a bit different, its pretty likely the 95 318 has a 3:55 geared 8 1/4 rear, could be a limited slip, or an open diff, depending on which box was checked when it was ordered. If the truck has a 7 1/4 rear, you might want to upgrade the rear axle at this point and get one with the correct 5 lug bolt pattern (5 on 4 1/2":)

If you think the 8 1/4 will hold up to the power and traction you might put into the truck, then probably the best process would be to have your axles re-dilled to the 5 lug pattern and buy the correct diameter 90 or older rear drums (could be either 9" drums or 10" drums). Earlier axle shafts from an older then 1990 might swap in, but Dodge made some changes in the 8 1/4 between the 90 and the 93 model years, so it might be possible the older axle might not be correct. I've heard it go both directions, between works and doesn't work.

If you have doubts about the 8 1/4 holding up, now might be the best time to upgrade the rear axle to something a bit tougher with the correct 5 lug bolt pattern.

I like the direction you are going with this.

I plan to pay a member here to transport the truck to me in April. I wont buy any parts until its in my garage. I need to verify what rear end is in it. I wasn't aware that re drilling for 5 lug on 4.5" was an option. I was planning on some new axle shafts thru Summit but will consider re drilling. I will replace the shaft seals and bearings while I'm in there. Rock Auto has great prices on the front brake hub/rotor assembly and the rea 5 lug drums. Performance mods initially most likely will only be a cat back exhaust. I will have the AC repaired and enjoy reliable daily driver tech (1995 tech) with air conditioning. If the paint wont clean up to my satisfaction with a buffing out Ill prep it and have it resprayed but the truck is clean and straight. Elderly owned since new. Ill post picks once I get it.

As long as the 8-1/4 is older than 97 (it would have to be since they did a whole body style change on Dakota's between 96/97) the 5 lug axles from an 87-90 Dakota 8-1/4 will go right in. I do know they changed the yoke and u joint size from the older ones to the newer Dakota's in that year range (87-96) and the yokes do interchange between them.
I've had to do this twice over the years when I've had to replace rear ends.
First was on my own 90 Dakota and did the same on a buddy's 80s van, remember they went to 5 on 5-1/2 on them from 5 on 4-1/2 between 84-85, my buddy's van was an 87 and he's gotten a rear end out of an earlier 80s model. In both cases the original axles from the truck went right into the replacement rear ends. All 8-1/4s involved here.

All that said I wish I could find a clean 87-96 4wd Dakota, my 96 is really starting to show it's age. But they're better trucks than any Dakota that came after

My dad is retired from MI and lives in FL. Unfortunately he acquires many things from the passing of his elderly friends- their widows simply give some things to my dad. The Dakota 2wd 318 is such an item. My dad really has no use for it and offered it to me during my November visit. When he got tires on it last spring the young tire shop employees wanted to buy it really bad. Called it a "Hot Rod truck." I'm chomping at the bit to take measurements of the rear wheel wells. I want to fill them completely and properly. I'm thinking a 15 x 10ish Weld Draglite or copycat Summit brand wheel with a 28-29" tall Hoosier or MT street tire that fills the wheels completely with no rubbing and no extending out beyond the body side- like in the pic of the S10 I posted. As of this post Summit has new axle shafts with the 5 on 4.5 lug pattern for under $90 each. After I verify things I will also head to my area pick and pulls and see what's out there. This is fun. This truck will be nice but less costly to play with than a classic and less pressure to make it stunning and perfect like a classic.

I did the 5 lug conversion on a 92 dakota 2wd. 8 1/4 axles were from a 89 or 90 model dakota, bought new rotors for the same application. I had 31" tires on mine no clearance issues on the back but they would scrub very slightly on the front frame rails when turned to full lock.

Please post pictures of your dakota after you get it home. I built a 91/96 dakota sport to drag race with and wouldn't take very much to put it on the street if I wanted to. On the rear wheels I have weld prostars in 15x10 with 5.5 BS. I think I could use a wheel with 5.0 if BS and still have room to the inner fender. The tires are M/T Pro bracket Radials in 28.5x10.5. But when I took these pictures I had a setbox hoozer 15x9 slicks on it. If you don't mind doing some cutting, grinding and welding. A Ford 8.8 out of a Ford Exployer is allmost a very easy swap. If I remember right mine came out of a 97 explorer. It came with 3.73 gears and a posi. I only paid $150 for the complete rear-end from my local pick in pull. But that was a few years ago so who knows the prices might of went up. Also if I remember right the 8.8 is around a inch narrower preside compared to the factory dakota diff. Here is a pic of the rear tire/ wheel set up of my dakota

Thanks for the tips and input! I have book marked this post for the future. Very helpful suggestions- especially with rear tire and wheel dimensions that you guys have run. I will post pics when I get the truck. Looking like an early April delivery. So here is the plan: Thorough wash of truck top to bottom interior and engine bay. Undercarriage and frame painted with an oil based black paint. 5 lug conversion all the way around. Weld Draglites (Or much cheaper Summit knock off) in the back with a MT or Hoosier street compound tires. 15x4 front wheels with skinny tires. Then a cowl (Yes Chevy design but it looks too good!) hood scoop either steel or fiberglass. And that's the first phase. Well if the radiator and AC condenser are original I will replace them.-AC does not blow cold so that will be fixed in the "First phase." Second phase which honestly will be in 2024 will be shorty headers and an aftermarket exhaust system. I will be more than happy with a mid 15 second vehicle at this point of my life. It will start up every time and have AC. And will not be adversely effected by sitting for not too long periods of time. Down the road further?? Nitrous kit and appropriate fuel and tune modifications assuming everything to keep the port fuel injection exists when adding nitrous. Im not on a shoe string budget mind you- just want to keep the vehicle running and drivable at all times with practical mods throughout the fun. Don't wanna tear down the engine just to have life happen and there its sits immobile. Looking forward to this toy!

If this wheel will work- its a fraction of the cost of the Weld Draglite.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-531p-51650

That wheel should bolt on. You won't know until you get the wheels but you might havevto add linger wheel studs. I had to install 3 inch ARP wheel studs to run the weld wheels on my 91 dakota. Here is a pick of my friends old 87 Dakota with a stroked 6.1 gen 3 hemi engine. He was running rhe Jegs aftermarket wheels. They look cool but damn they are heavy compared to the welds. On those wheels the 15x4 was heavier than the 15x10 weld I put on my dakota. But if your not worried about weight it's not a problem.

Pic of my dakota. The only one I seem to have on my phone right now. It's red. My friends is the black 87

Fantastic tips and pictures. Both Dakotas look awesome.

Thank you very much. My friend ender up sellingvthe 87 as a roller and put the hemi engine in a nice and light 73 plymouth duster. I tried getting some up close pictures of my wheels and tires to night. To show how far the tires stick out. With the 8.8 I still think I can get a 15x10 weld with 5 BS to tuck the tire in a little bit more. I am going to see this spring if I can find a nice used set of the wheels. That is if I can find a set cheep enough. Lol

Another pic