Well I guess the easy thing to do is re-install the bumps like Herb said.We can still check your alignment from zero to 3" and check your toe throughout the movement.
Gus

I don't know, I don't do my own alignments. My main question was if by adding more front end travel by removing the upper contol arm bushings, could I have created a bump steer situation.

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You mean the bump stops.... but yes it COULD add
greater bump steer with the added travel. You can do
the testing (toe curve) on your own with a tape measure
and a couple of straight edges and a floor jack, keep
measuring the toe in at .5" intervals all the way
up through the travel till the tire lifts off the
ground. The correction for the toe differences is
moving the inner or outer tie rod locations. If you
have the MP Chassis book it show what to do and how
to correct it

OOOPS! I feel kind of silly saying upper control arm bushings. I have been wanting to get it re-aligned anyway because I've noticed (from picture) that when the front comes up, the tires look closer at the top than the bottom.

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Thats a design thing from the factory for cornering
(the upper A-arm is shorter than the lower

With the snubbers out the control arm puts the car in a negative caster situation when it comes down to far. Yes that is some of your problem. Ill call you tomorrow, we are thrashing trying to finish a 5.7 hemi in a 61 Chrysler 300 my dad is driving to Atlanta tomorrow. The car has 3 miles on it and is to leave at 11am. This car is a work of art.

Id put the snubbers back in. Without the snubbers your going to have bump steer issues as you have already found out.

The tires being pulled in at the top is a result of the shorter upper A arms. It will pull the tire into negative camber. Along with moving the caster into the negative direction from the built in anti dive swing movement.

Id put the bump stops back in first, but I would also plot out your bump steer as described in the MP chassis manuel to see where its at. mike

P body is dead right on this issue. In our humble opinion there are three contributing factors to "darting".
1. not enough caster. Drag racers should be running 3-4 degree of caster. Correction- Tubular uppers that are adjustable.
2. The strut bar bushings give during launch and loading/unloading of the front end which changes your caster & camber settings and allows the wheels to do the Chrysler Shake. The correction is to replace those strut bars with adjustable ones from CAP Auto or RMS.
3. BUMP STEER! can't say it enough. More ttravel, more bump steer. In our case the critical measurment is from ride height up to the point where your upper control arm hits the jounce bumper. That distance if increased allows that arc to continue respectively thus increasing the bump steer or as some people refer it as toe in/toe out. Corrective action..... put those jounce bumpers back in and check your current measurements in 1/2 increments.

I will bet you will be surprized at what you find.

call us if you need help

Ray
CAP Auto Products

Thanks everyone for the information. My game plan now is to put the bumpers back in and then I will check the toe as I jack the car up to see what I've got.

If I see there is some change in the toe as it goes up, would I simply raise the ride height so there is less front end travel to correct this?

Thanks again,
Mike

You have a PM, See howmuch variance you have and we will fix it.

Herb jr

Mike I can probably schedule you in next week some time in the afternoon when we have more time to get it right.Give me a call when the weather is nice or when you you have the time.We just got the latest and greatest Hunter rack that has a bump steer adjustment option.
Gus

Ill take my 40 year old turn tables and a tape measure. Oh yea lets not forget the knowledge of Herb McCandless.

An old two piece sliding curtain rod with the two L shaped ends makes a nice toe measurement tool.