Could there be an issue if I keep driving it without a working a working pressure gauge? I honestly don't know how long it's been broken...

Not if you have oil pressure.
Just get a manual water/ oil set even cheapo sets are fine.
I know I used my fair share of the low cost ones in the 70s and tget worked fine.
If they have the plastic hose line do worry just do not over tighten the nut or run it by where it could get burnt.
I ran a T so both would work as I hate having a dead one in the dash. But that's personal.

I should have pressure, I mean I do have some oil leaks but... I have a cheap oil pressure set I'll be using to check before I head off... I definitely want whatever tool/gauge that'll help me regulate performance even help diagnose an issue in the future... Shoot, a 6ft copper line kit is only $15 and a decent gauge $25...

Well, It looks like I'll have no choice now but to drive my van and find out what the mpg's are looking like! My daily driver finally broke down on me!! Anyone know a good forum I can go to for help with my 2000 S10???

I'm not sure if I should bring it up here or not...
I have no doubt all of you that have helped me thus far have knowledge that exceeds that of my B300!

Maybe just a quick little mention...

My s10's not starting... Cranks but no fire, starts and runs after spraying carb cleaner in intake... I unhooked the hose from the fuel filter and cranked it and just a tiny spurt comes out. There's an obvious fuel delivery issue. Even though the pump makes noise when key is ON and the fuel is barely spurting through the line, could it be that the pump has failed and just doesn't have enough force to pump the fuel???
Please and thank you everyone.

GM used to use a rubber connector between the pump and fuel line inside the tank that would split. Pump runs, no gas comes out.

One of my SIL's friends up Abilene way had a similar issue with his truck.

I took the cap off the tank, put my ear there and had him turn the key on.

Told him he was out of gas, he swore up and down he wasn't. Had him put 5 gallons in and it fired right up. He had a habit of not putting much gas in the truck, not sure why.

If you can do the same you can hear the pump load down when it starts pumping gas.

As far back as my use goes of them is mid 70s. And in.that time only ones i have seen the plastic lines fail on on any car was due to someone who tightened the crap out of the nut on the Ferrell. Or it was melted by exhaust.
It would not worry me to use the plastic if that is what it came with in the box.
I think most do not understand not to put one on right.
Even house plumbing guys think they should crank down on the nut.
Same guys proberly over tighten lug nuts, bolts and nuts too.

Chances are, I may not need a new pump? If what you mentioned is the case then all I have to do is take the pump out of the tank and replace that rubber connector.

I hope that's the case because pumps for the S10 are either really cheap($35) or full price($220)! No middle ground with the pumps, it's either cheap or expensive...

I just found this video for reference, https://youtu.be/BHMH8ZFwiZU you can just forward to the part the pumps running and fuel is coming out... If that's the amount and flow of fuel that should be flowing then my fuel pump is definitely bad, I'm almost certain of it but if someone can just check out the video and confirm that's about the type of flow I should be seeing coming out of my lines right before the filter then I think it'll put this dilemma to rest...

that looks pretty close to how a good pump should act.
most pumps are supposed to pump "x" quarts or gallons into a container in "yz" minutes.
i'm not sure what yours is supposed to pump, but a nice, steady stream like shown in the video would be close, in my opinion.

In that case it's bad... I've got little teaspoon size spurts coming out, no stream, not even close...
Even though it's still squirting out a little fuel I guess it's not enough to move fuel through the system...
Anyone have experience using one of the cheap $40 pumps from eBay?

If the pump was going out then why wouldn't it have given me issues while I drove?? I only had issues with it starting a couple of times in the past year and then all of a sudden it won't start...

Are you sure someone didn't borrow your gas? With the current price of gas, that becomes a real possibility. If there is not enough gas in the tank to cover the pickup, the pump can't pump it.

Electric fuel pumps tend to just die, most don't give any warning. Constantly running the vehicle low on fuel tends to hurry the failure a bit, as will any dirt or grit in the gas. Most electric pumps also have a "filter sock" (most are plastic these days) on the inlet side of the pump, that could be plugged up, or bad as well, a plugged, or partially plugged 'filter sock" will restrict or stop the fuel from getting into the pump. You might want to be sure the fuel lines from the tank are good as well. Don't over look the easy stuff. Gene

There's nobody here where I live that'll steal anything from me, that's one of the reasons I'm out here!

I think I found the problem anyway... You can see all the electrical contacts on the pump are burnt... I want to double check the pump before I discard it...

See!

That is not the pump. That's the tanks sending unit. Looks like someone fed 12 volts to it.

yep. sending unit toasted.

Couldn't that start a fire? Most likely an explosion?
Is it pretty common for them to burn out like that?
Let's see how long this $30 pump I bought on eBay lasts me...

i'm not saying it couldn't go BOOM, but i have seen many sending units as well as pumps, with "toasty" marks on them worse than that.
i can't remember of hearing about a burnt up pump or sending unit causing an explosion.
anyone here ever hear of something like this causing a fire or explosion ?

Ok, now back to the van....
Finally drove it! I went on a "quick trip to the store" which is about 90miles round trip... Everything went great, won't be sure about the gas usage till after a few drives. I had a brief moment on the way home where I thought I was losing power but that could've been the wind... I also had a moment where there was a 'clunk' shifting into drive... I don't remember if the rpms were up when I shifted, it was on the side of the freeway and in the midst of the whole loosing power fiasco... Made it home though and there doesn't seem to be any issues. I'm going to do a bunch of checks on it today...

The main reason for this post is that I finally got my new oil pressure switch but it's the wrong one. I need the one with the smaller diameter threaded end...
The one's that I've seen were hard to find and not specific to my make/model but they look like what I need...
Now, if I can just find out what psi the switch is suppose to operate at... anyone know what that is?

I just hooked up the pressure gauge and it's reading 66 psi at 1200 rpm... Isn't the rule of thumb 10psi per 1000rpm? Maybe my gauge is wrong?

was that reading at a hot or cold engine temperature ?
if cold, it will go down when warmed up.
if that reading was when warmed up, what did it go to when, at say, 2500, 3500, 4000 rpm ?
if your bypass valve is stuck closed, you would have blown off the oil filter long ago.
you need to temporarily hook up the mechanical gauge where you can see it from cold start up to warmed up going down the road, then hot idle.
the gauge you have now is most likely ok.
you can do this now while you are waiting for the correct [1/8" NPT ?] sending unit.