[quote=poorboy]You have to check the AFT with the van on a level surface, after it has warmed up (its suppose to be up to operating temp), and the trans fluid has to be checked with the trans in neutral. Anything else gives you a false reading.
Its not unusual for the torque converter to drain down after setting for a while (I've seen them start to drain down in a few hours) on a Mopar. Add to that, the pump inside the trans does not pump the fluid while the trans is in park. That means that if the converter has drained down some, and you check it in park, its going to read over full.
I would put more money on a converter drain down and improper fluid level checking then any other cause. Coolant leaking into the trans caused be a radiator cooler issue is pretty rare, but if that is it, the trans is going to fail quickly, and probably already needs to be rebuilt! Water from the cooling system will break down the glue that holds the clutch material to the steel. Been there, done that, but in my case the water didn't come from the trans cooler. The trans was toast in less then 1,000 miles, and the fluid looked like a strawberry milk shake the 1st time.
I've owned a lot of Mopars over the years, for me, and everyone in my household, when ever we start one of our vehicles (we only have Mopars here) that has been sitting more then a couple hours, we put the trans in neutral for at least 30 seconds before we put it in drive or reverse. That gives the pump in the trans time to refill the converter. If you start it up, and immediately put it in drive (or reverse) and go, you may not have enough fluid in the converter for the trans to function instantly and you get a delayed action from the trans. If you have your foot into the gas pedal, it makes it worse. That eventually causes premature wear on the trans clutch pack and bands.
Conclusion: When ever you start your van, put the trans in neutral for the count of 30, before you put it in either drive or reverse. When you check the fluid, you make sure the van is sitting level, start it and do the neutral thing, then shift it into drive, then into reverse at least a couple of times, then shift it into neutral, pull the trans dipstick and wipe it off, then reinsert the dipstick (being sure its all the way down) then check the fluid. The fluid probably isn't up to operating temp, but at least it should read close. Only add fluid if the level is at or below the add line. Over filling is as bad as underfilling. If it reads over full, I suggest you take it for a ride and recheck it. If its way over full, you will need to drain some off. Drain it off by slightly loosening one of the cooler lines. Have a container ready, it will drain off pretty fast. Be sure you don't drain too much off. ]
That's exactly how I've been checking the level. I have the manual and I've been checking it exactly how the book instructs. I only check the level when it's at operating temp, in neutral and on level ground... I even brought a level with me and made sure the vehicle is level... I've done everything properly according to the ATSG Techbook...
That's why this has me concerned, I've done everything right! Well, that I'm aware of...
I did notice when I start the van and then throw it into Drive that it takes a few seconds to get going and I figured that it's because it still needed to to fill up with fluid, I was aware of that and was wondering about it. Thanks for the tip on getting that converter filled before going forward at initial start-up. I'll be doing that from now on before I put it into drive.
That's not the delayed reaction I'm referring to though, I may have mentioned that but that's not the issue I had yesterday...
Yes, there is that delay every time I start it... I'm talking about after having driven it for a while and then stopping somewhere, putting it in park and then putting it back into Drive and resuming the drive. That happened once on my first drive and I mentioned it. Yesterday is when it happened again when I came home, I have lot's of property and a front gate so when I get home I have to get out and unlock the gate. When I got back in the van I put it in drive and it shifted fine but then when I pressed the accelerator peddle it took a split second and thudded forward. This is what I'm referring to, the clunk forward after I've been driving for a while not at initial start-up. That's why I mentioned that maybe I do have too much fluid and there was air bubbles built up in the fluid and that maybe that's what created that delay...
Like I said, I've done everything according to the book, triple and quadruple checking everything!
The main leek and reason I'm here was what was coming from the bell housing and that leek is minimal and happens about half the time so I assume it's not from the pump seal... The other leek I mentioned isn't coming from any spots higher than the pan. It seams to have been seeping through the gasket. It's like when my carb gets too much gasoline and it starts to seep through the gaskets, that's what it looks like happened.
So if I have too much fluid wouldn't that account for some fluid leeking from the oil drain every now and then? Also wouldn't it account for air bubbles and a delayed reaction into drive every now and then?
I'll just drain a little more and go on a longer drive to get the temp up, I don't think I'm getting the proper level reading by idling to warm and driving around the block because I've already done that and checking it that way hasn't been very accurate.
I mean how many operating temps for my vehicle is there??? Operating temp after warmup or operating temp after a freeway drive???
