Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: GY3]
#2948816
07/30/21 12:28 PM
07/30/21 12:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,817 A collage of whims
topside
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,817
A collage of whims
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Agree absolutely on the teardown & inspection - please do that! Hell, I'll mail you gaskets... I'd also want to know the CR, where the cam's degreed, what clearances are, rocker/valve sweep, etc. I'd personally prefer a single carb : 750-850CFM & PerfRPM intake. Obviously, the cam/induction/converter/gear/weight combo will affect street manners, and you should have a firm & realistic idea of what you want for manners.
Ran a 540-horse Street Hemi for decades, no hook on Radial T/As on the street until 3rd gear. M&Hs fixed that but it was fun either way. Car could run 11.70s, so you had to be careful where you'd "let it out" on the street. Point is, it was plenty, and it did scare a couple guys that got a ride.
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: GY3]
#2948823
07/30/21 01:15 PM
07/30/21 01:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,187 Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,187
Park Forest, IL
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If it were me, I would pull it completely down and inspect everything!
It only costs time and the price of a gasket set.
I bought an engine that looked great and had been rebuilt recently. Thought I was good to go. Pulled a piston and rod to be sure and the rings were broken in that cylinder...and the next...and the next...
Would have been a PITA had I installed it as-is. Apparently someone didn't know how to install pistons with a ring compressor.
I had a 383 like that. It ran ok, but had a weird noise in it. Pulled it down and the cylinders had never been final honed, and all the rod bearings were worn out. "Just rebuilt". Just me, but when I buy a motor/trans I always look at it as needing rebuilt, even if it comes from a friend.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: migsBIG]
#2948824
07/30/21 01:18 PM
07/30/21 01:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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I made a 505 C.I. pump gas motor for my old street Duster, it was a 400 block stroke to 4.250 and it was bored to 4.375. I had a set of 906 heads fixed up with 2.14 intake valves with 1.81 exhaust valves and a LITTLE bit of hand porting. I put a Comp Cams solid roller that had 260 duration @.050 with .420 lobe lift on the intakes and 266 @.050 with .409 lobe lift ground on a 108 LSA , I installed the cam with the intake lobes @ 106 ATDC, 2 degrees advanced. I use a set of 1.6 ratio rockers and a low deck six pack with a set of 1970 440 automatic carbs. 1970/1971 Hemi/Six pack 6 quart oil pan with a home made crank scraper and a stock Mopar windage tray. I was hoping the motor would make between 550 and 560 HP, it made 592 HP at 5000 RPM on the first pull with over 600 Ft. Lbs. torque at 4500 RPM I did a bunch of tuning and parts testing on that motor that day on a DTS engine dyno, the best results were 612 HP at 5500 RPM with 644 Ft. Lbs. torque at 4500 RPM. I had built a 1971 Duster with ladder bars and coil over rear suspension to race the black guys on the streets in L.A. CA, that didn't happen I was hoping the car would run between 10.70 to 11.00 on M/T ET 315x60x15 street radials with me in it, the first pass I made with that car was 10.69 at 124. + MPH cork up with the six pack air cleaner on I ended up swapping a bunch of parts on that motor and the final build made 727 HP with a set of Indy SR heads with Max wedge intake port sizes and a Indy 400-3 intake manifold with a early production1050 CFM Holley list # 9375 non HP carb on 91 octane Oregon pump swill, the best ET and MPH with that combination was 9.993 ET at 134.+ MPH weighing 3450Lbs . with me in it cork up with the air cleaner on and with the full 3.0 inch exhaust system on On your deal we need to know exactly how many cubic inches and how much true compression ratio it has before we can help you get close the the power it may make. I'm a drag racer, not a show car guy and not timid in the pursuit of power. That cam is not to big in my opinion and it will work fine as long as it is not retarded, it will probably run real well installed from 106 to 108 on the intake lobe centers BB Mopars rule, I love whupping up on Hemi motors
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 07/30/21 01:20 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: topside]
#2948841
07/30/21 01:52 PM
07/30/21 01:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,687 Wichita
GY3
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,687
Wichita
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Ran a 540-horse Street Hemi for decades, no hook on Radial T/As on the street until 3rd gear. M&Hs fixed that but it was fun either way. Car could run 11.70s, so you had to be careful where you'd "let it out" on the street. Point is, it was plenty, and it did scare a couple guys that got a ride.
Mine is worthless and like driving on ice with the 275/60/15 400 treadwear radials. We have a couple of events that require "street tires" that we compete in at the track so I threw them on some old cop wheels that I have. I like giving guys rides that had "fast street cars" back in the day. Lots of screaming like girls and hanging on for dear life. LOL! The best one was a kid trying to get video with his cell phone while in the back seat and the phone smacked him in his face because he wasn't expecting it. LOL! I also learned long ago to point it straight before hitting the loud pedal. Even then, things happen fast on the street.
'63 Dodge 330 11.19 @ 121 mph Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs. 10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: 6PakBee]
#2948921
07/30/21 06:37 PM
07/30/21 06:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,187 Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,187
Park Forest, IL
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So the 440 was to powerful for the street and he wanted something the family could cruise in? But he trades for a street rod with a big block Chevy with a tunnel ram, two fours, 14-32’s and probably two seats. Makes perfect sense. I had the same thought. X3 I'd definitely tear it down.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: migsBIG]
#2948928
07/30/21 06:59 PM
07/30/21 06:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 610 Boise
Moparteacher
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 610
Boise
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Tear it down? Nonsense. #1 Pull the plugs. #2 Put a torque wrench on the crank and measure abnormalities in the rotational torque. #3 Pull the dizzy and intermediate, use a drill and shaft to prime the oil pump. Check for oil to the heads while rotating and measure oil pressure. #4 TDC each cylinder and do a leak-down. #5, bolt a bell and starter to it and do a cranking compression test on all cylinders. Use a borescope for lookin inside the holes. #6 pull the pan and valley tray for visual inspection. Pull a rod and main cap if you must. Look for heat marks, loose parts, etc. #7 If all is well put it back together and stuff it.
Whomever built it didn't go cheap. Indy heads and rockers (those don't look like HS), BHJ dampner, ARP, Milidon, Edelbrock, MP covers, etc. Mid-level standard stuff for many today, but this thing was built...what? 20 years ago? You have the receipts,
You tear it down and now it's off to the machine shop, new parts, upgrades, and more time and money. Inspect it like you would any used car and run it like you stole, because for the price it's practically a steal.
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: justinp61]
#2948933
07/30/21 07:15 PM
07/30/21 07:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,650 San Jose,CA
migsBIG
OP
YouTube is my go-to news source
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OP
YouTube is my go-to news source
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,650
San Jose,CA
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So the 440 was to powerful for the street and he wanted something the family could cruise in? But he trades for a street rod with a big block Chevy with a tunnel ram, two fours, 14-32’s and probably two seats. Makes perfect sense. I asked the same question. Apparently this is what he was thinking when he bought the challenger 7 years ago. 5 years later, he inherited a 1969 Firebird from his deceased bro and decided to make that the family cruiser. That rat rod is getting caged and safety gear via recommendations. I think this motor is going to get the pan removed and check out bits. If it’s not factory rods, just going to put the pan back on, some cast valve covers and figure out what intake/carb set up will work under a stock hood and be good with it.
Last edited by migsBIG; 07/30/21 07:53 PM.
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: Moparteacher]
#2949185
07/31/21 04:04 PM
07/31/21 04:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,687 Wichita
GY3
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,687
Wichita
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Tear it down? Nonsense. #1 Pull the plugs. #2 Put a torque wrench on the crank and measure abnormalities in the rotational torque. #3 Pull the dizzy and intermediate, use a drill and shaft to prime the oil pump. Check for oil to the heads while rotating and measure oil pressure. #4 TDC each cylinder and do a leak-down. #5, bolt a bell and starter to it and do a cranking compression test on all cylinders. Use a borescope for lookin inside the holes. #6 pull the pan and valley tray for visual inspection. Pull a rod and main cap if you must. Look for heat marks, loose parts, etc. #7 If all is well put it back together and stuff it.
Whomever built it didn't go cheap. Indy heads and rockers (those don't look like HS), BHJ dampner, ARP, Milidon, Edelbrock, MP covers, etc. Mid-level standard stuff for many today, but this thing was built...what? 20 years ago? You have the receipts,
You tear it down and now it's off to the machine shop, new parts, upgrades, and more time and money. Inspect it like you would any used car and run it like you stole, because for the price it's practically a steal. Glad you weren't MY Moparteacher.
'63 Dodge 330 11.19 @ 121 mph Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs. 10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.
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Re: So what kind of motor did I trade for?
[Re: GY3]
#2949583
08/02/21 05:10 AM
08/02/21 05:10 AM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 610 Boise
Moparteacher
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 610
Boise
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Tear it down? Nonsense. #1 Pull the plugs. #2 Put a torque wrench on the crank and measure abnormalities in the rotational torque. #3 Pull the dizzy and intermediate, use a drill and shaft to prime the oil pump. Check for oil to the heads while rotating and measure oil pressure. #4 TDC each cylinder and do a leak-down. #5, bolt a bell and starter to it and do a cranking compression test on all cylinders. Use a borescope for lookin inside the holes. #6 pull the pan and valley tray for visual inspection. Pull a rod and main cap if you must. Look for heat marks, loose parts, etc. #7 If all is well put it back together and stuff it.
Whomever built it didn't go cheap. Indy heads and rockers (those don't look like HS), BHJ dampener, ARP, Milodon, Edelbrock, MP covers, etc. Mid-level standard stuff for many today, but this thing was built...what? 20 years ago? You have the receipts,
You tear it down and now it's off to the machine shop, new parts, upgrades, and more time and money. Inspect it like you would any used car and run it like you stole, because for the price it's practically a steal. Glad you weren't MY Moparteacher. What a coincidence! I'm glad you weren't my student.
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