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Re: Zero energy '79 Power Wagon [Re: krautrock] #2940873
07/07/21 03:19 PM
07/07/21 03:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
Stud Muffin
larrymopar360  Offline OP
Stud Muffin

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871
Central Florida
Originally Posted by krautrock
all you need is a little 10g wire and a 12g fusible link, a few inches. solder and heatshrink and three connector lugs (alt, relay and the original alt wire which can also go to the b+ lug on the relay).
with that alt you have on there i would make that top priority. it would suck to burn the bulkhead up and have to replace that stuff.
Yes it would!!! Thanks all. Larry


Facts are stubborn things.
Re: Zero energy '79 Power Wagon [Re: I_bleed_MOPAR] #2940874
07/07/21 03:26 PM
07/07/21 03:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871
Central Florida
larrymopar360 Offline OP
Stud Muffin
larrymopar360  Offline OP
Stud Muffin

Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871
Central Florida
Originally Posted by I_bleed_MOPAR
Originally Posted by larrymopar360
Right just amp gauge bypassed. I swear I'll get to that correct bypass one day, with help from my brother.

Any opinions on my Powermaster 150 amp alternator causing this? I believe factory was 60 amp. Did I blow it with this "upgrade"? Guitar mentioned the poor connection and insulation may have caused the melting and that's what I'm hoping. I don't know what that connection was and if it was a factory thing. Almost looks like there was some kind of inline fuse at one time with transparent sleeve? I can't tell because it was in bad shape when I got truck. All I did was wrap it better with electrical tape.


That wasn't a dig at you by any means (or anyone else). I did the bolt and nut trick on my sons Charger for several years until I found out about the MAD write-up.
Very possible the alternator aggravated the situation with the increased amps but by no means was it your fault. You could actually cut the wire at the alternator (tape the harness side very well), splice in and run a piece of 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay (using a 14 ga. fusible link as seen in the MAD write-up). This would take the main load off the bulkhead and the 1979 wiring. wink You'll still have the original wire from the relay feeding the dash circuit. Hence my comment about taping the harness end of the wire at the alternator as it will be "hot" with 12v from the dash circuit.
Wish you were closer. I'd give you a hand with it. up


Tim
up beer


Facts are stubborn things.
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